T56 Input shaft bearing question
10-22-2009, 06:22 AM
#21
Hmm, I'm pretty sure I found another potential source of noise.. The Mainshaft large taper bearing should probably not be spinning on the shaft.. I was able to dismantle most of my mainshaft without a press, well i should say most of my tranny without a press or puller.
10-22-2009, 11:38 AM
#22
When i put this thing back together, how do I keep the front race from spinning if the new one is as loose as the current one? I've heard of the old method of going around the cut out in the midplate with a center punch then putting lock tite on the outside of the race and install it.
I don't think the driveshaft was binding, i as able to slide it forward on the spines when I removed it. Maybe i should've had some more grease on the splines so it could slide in and out easier??
I don't think the driveshaft was binding, i as able to slide it forward on the spines when I removed it. Maybe i should've had some more grease on the splines so it could slide in and out easier??
10-22-2009, 12:45 PM
#23
If the midplate bearing cup is worn, you should replace the midplate. You have to be able to remove the bearing race to shim the bearings, you don't want it staked or locktite'd into place.
Ideally, the roller bearings should have less resistance/friction turning than the race rotating in the cup. If your midplate is slightly worn, you may just want to shim it back with slight end-play instead of pre-load, this should keep the race from turning as long as the bearing is in good shape.
The driveshaft binding is when the rear/drivetrain moves/rotates forward, pushing the driveshaft into the transmission and bottoms out. If you only have about 1" or less of slide in your driveshaft (suspension loaded), it's probably bottoming out during braking,etc.
Ideally, the roller bearings should have less resistance/friction turning than the race rotating in the cup. If your midplate is slightly worn, you may just want to shim it back with slight end-play instead of pre-load, this should keep the race from turning as long as the bearing is in good shape.
The driveshaft binding is when the rear/drivetrain moves/rotates forward, pushing the driveshaft into the transmission and bottoms out. If you only have about 1" or less of slide in your driveshaft (suspension loaded), it's probably bottoming out during braking,etc.
10-02-2010, 08:02 AM
#24
update. Completed car on Memorial Day. 7K miles, No more whine in neutral. During the rebuild I also noticed that when the last owner rebuilt the tranny, he replaced the bearings, but none of the races. SO i had KOYO bearings and Timken races.... PS. That race in the end of the input shaft is a PITA.
01-27-2012, 09:30 AM
#27
I used a slide hammer with a hooked end. I put a socket in the race fill up the extra space and keep the hook on the race. I worked my way around sliding it out a little bit at a time.
I already had a cheapo slide hammer, but the way described above is a better way to go.
I already had a cheapo slide hammer, but the way described above is a better way to go.
01-27-2012, 11:45 AM
#29
The 5/6 gear is shot and a new one goes for around $180 IIRC.
Contact Jason at TDP and he can provide a repaired main shaft with decent splines that has the journal where the gear presses on, slightly oversized for a tighter fit than OEM. I went this route and the setup is going strong and the repaired shaft is much cheaper than a new shaft.
This area of the shaft and the design of the gear are a severe design flaw IMO.
