pilot bearing or bushing...
i used a bushing just for the fact that if the bearing lets go on you than your gonna need a new input shaft but the bushing wont eat up the input shaft when it lets go/ wears out. plus the bushing was cheaper and i could make one myself if i needed too.
Bronze is better if you are not going to change out your input shaft in your trans. The best is to use the bearing and a new input shaft. It will last a long time and you will be able to shift a lot faster. The bronze is good and will still drag even if you grease it. Be careful when greasing it to not put to much and have it to into your clutch disk. If you replace the input shaft that is also your 4th gear in your trans and is about $220 to $240 for the part without the labor of taking apart your trans.
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Verdad Gallardo If you dont change out the input shaft it will always eat the pilot bearing because of the chewed up metal on the input shaft. Thats why if you go to a bushing it will last but will be harder to get high RPM shifts because of the drag that can be caused by the bushing dragging on the input shaft. All though it will last and work and is the cheapest.
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 314
Likes: 0
From: Huntsville, AL
Well, thanks guys. I got the bushing from NAPA. That was the only place that had it in stock. So, I guys that I will be going to the bushing, but from what yall are telling me, it will be hard to get into gear at high rpms. That will suck. I guess I will just have to make that judgement when I pull it apart.
Well, thanks guys. I got the bushing from NAPA. That was the only place that had it in stock. So, I guys that I will be going to the bushing, but from what yall are telling me, it will be hard to get into gear at high rpms. That will suck. I guess I will just have to make that judgement when I pull it apart.
The pilot bearing is not going to go out because of the spec. The clutch dust is what usually kills the pilot bearing. The spec issue I was talking about was that specs on a stock hydrolic setup usually do not FULLY disengage the pressure plate from the disk and flywheel. When this happens, the disk drags and causes the blocker rings to work hard to slow/speed up the gear that the outer slider is trying to engage. If that keeps up you will go through the blocker rings like its cool. You will be able to tell that it is doing this when you cant get it into reverse when the car is running but its easy when the car is off. Also when you try and put the car into gear the car will want to move forward before it goes into gear. You will also notice that the pedal will start its disengagement at the floor. This is on stock setups not ones with ticks and mcleods. Also saing that your trans is ok and that the hydrolics are ok. All that need to be done to fix this is get a adjustable master or shim the slave out from the adapter plate.
You had a pilot bearing go out because it was old or something like that. If its bad you will be able to tell because the needle bearings will be bad or not there. The biggest thing is to look at the input shaft of the trans and make sure that it is still ok. I mean by ok is that there is no scaring or cratches or different size parts on the end of it. If that is ok then just yank out the old pilot bearing and install a new one with a brass or aluminum bearing/seal installer tool. Then grease the crap out of it making sure not to get anything past it on the input shaft where it can come into the disk or pressure plate.
This is how your input shaft/4th gear will look.
http://www.ddperformance.com/shop/pr...th=110_103_115
This is how your input shaft/4th gear will look.
http://www.ddperformance.com/shop/pr...th=110_103_115
