Prin

My 2nd pilot bearing has went out. Would a bushing be better?

jerflash

how long did they last and how does the nose on your input shaft look?

Prin

The first one lasted 180k! the 2nd last only 2k. I will be pulling it apart next week to see how it looks.

styoung

iTrader: (4)

i used a bushing just for the fact that if the bearing lets go on you than your gonna need a new input shaft but the bushing wont eat up the input shaft when it lets go/ wears out. plus the bushing was cheaper and i could make one myself if i needed too.

Prin

OK, now I have both a bushing and a bearing. So, are yall telling me that its better to put the bushing in? I mean, seems like that would create a lot of friction.

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

Actually it's not a whole lot of friction..bronze is soft. I have the bronze one in my setup, works fine.

haighter

iTrader: (55)

Bronze is better if you are not going to change out your input shaft in your trans. The best is to use the bearing and a new input shaft. It will last a long time and you will be able to shift a lot faster. The bronze is good and will still drag even if you grease it. Be careful when greasing it to not put to much and have it to into your clutch disk. If you replace the input shaft that is also your 4th gear in your trans and is about $220 to $240 for the part without the labor of taking apart your trans.

EATSGTS

iTrader: (2)

Where did you get them?

haighter

iTrader: (55)

If you dont change out the input shaft it will always eat the pilot bearing because of the chewed up metal on the input shaft. Thats why if you go to a bushing it will last but will be harder to get high RPM shifts because of the drag that can be caused by the bushing dragging on the input shaft. All though it will last and work and is the cheapest.

Prin

Well, thanks guys. I got the bushing from NAPA. That was the only place that had it in stock. So, I guys that I will be going to the bushing, but from what yall are telling me, it will be hard to get into gear at high rpms. That will suck. I guess I will just have to make that judgement when I pull it apart.

haighter

iTrader: (55)

It doesnt mean it will be 100% that the trans will be harder to shift at higher RPMs. Think of it this way. The easier the input can spin the rpm that it want the less your blocker rings have to work to slow down or speed up your gears for the slider to engage them. The harder the blocker rings have to work the less they will last and they might not engage at all causing you to be blocked out of the gear or grinding. It all works off of how the 4th gear or the input shaft is turning the counter shaft in the trans and also all the other gears are connected to it and the gear that you select have to be at the right rpm to engage. This also makes a big difference when it comes into the pressure plate being released. I have seen about 100+ spec clutch that have this problem and will inturn cause a lot of damage to a trans if the slave isnt shimmed or getting a tick or mcloud master to make it disengage further. It causes the disk to drag on the flywheel and pressure plate making the blocker rings work really hard to slow down the gear to make it engage with the outer slider.

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

I've never had any problems with mine..then again I shimmed it on the tight side, so that helps aswell.

Prin

So, is this a SPEC issue?

WADDISME

iTrader: (4)

My pilot bearing went out after less than 10k mi. I was debating the bearing vs bushing. I have the kevlar bushing but not sure if I want to try it. So my problem is the Spec 3+ also?

haighter

iTrader: (55)

The pilot bearing is not going to go out because of the spec. The clutch dust is what usually kills the pilot bearing. The spec issue I was talking about was that specs on a stock hydrolic setup usually do not FULLY disengage the pressure plate from the disk and flywheel. When this happens, the disk drags and causes the blocker rings to work hard to slow/speed up the gear that the outer slider is trying to engage. If that keeps up you will go through the blocker rings like its cool. You will be able to tell that it is doing this when you cant get it into reverse when the car is running but its easy when the car is off. Also when you try and put the car into gear the car will want to move forward before it goes into gear. You will also notice that the pedal will start its disengagement at the floor. This is on stock setups not ones with ticks and mcleods. Also saing that your trans is ok and that the hydrolics are ok. All that need to be done to fix this is get a adjustable master or shim the slave out from the adapter plate.

haighter

iTrader: (55)

You had a pilot bearing go out because it was old or something like that. If its bad you will be able to tell because the needle bearings will be bad or not there. The biggest thing is to look at the input shaft of the trans and make sure that it is still ok. I mean by ok is that there is no scaring or cratches or different size parts on the end of it. If that is ok then just yank out the old pilot bearing and install a new one with a brass or aluminum bearing/seal installer tool. Then grease the crap out of it making sure not to get anything past it on the input shaft where it can come into the disk or pressure plate.
This is how your input shaft/4th gear will look.
http://www.ddperformance.com/shop/pr...th=110_103_115