Morris Motorsports...TICK MC and Stock MC
11-11-2009, 06:12 PM
#41
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Not only very informational but also very interesting.
Yes I've been enjoying my Tick m/c.
Again thankyou so much for the help.
.
11-11-2009, 09:21 PM
#43
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Is it possible for the hydraulics to build up enough pressure to cause a slave cylinder to move out slightly on it's own and stay there without any peddle engagement ?
There should be no way for this to happen unless you had a faulty master due to the fact that if the peddle is not pressed there should be no pressure at all from the slave all the way up to the fluid reservoir. Correct me if I am wrong but when the master is disengaged the master is open from the slave to the reservoir. Maybe your reservoirs holding enough pressure between the rubber and plastic cap to engage that clutch a hair. Which I dont think could ever happen. Just throwing that out there.
11-11-2009, 11:19 PM
#44
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i was just thinking about this comment...
There should be no way for this to happen unless you had a faulty master due to the fact that if the peddle is not pressed there should be no pressure at all from the slave all the way up to the fluid reservoir. Correct me if I am wrong but when the master is disengaged the master is open from the slave to the reservoir. Maybe your reservoirs holding enough pressure between the rubber and plastic cap to engage that clutch a hair. Which I dont think could ever happen. Just throwing that out there.
There should be no way for this to happen unless you had a faulty master due to the fact that if the peddle is not pressed there should be no pressure at all from the slave all the way up to the fluid reservoir. Correct me if I am wrong but when the master is disengaged the master is open from the slave to the reservoir. Maybe your reservoirs holding enough pressure between the rubber and plastic cap to engage that clutch a hair. Which I dont think could ever happen. Just throwing that out there.
Did you see the post I made this morning on your thread. It also might not be a bad idea to give Jonathon or GEN414 a call or PM.
.
11-11-2009, 11:41 PM
#45
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AND I'll give another bit of praise to Joey and Tick in general. Lightning fast shipping on their products and the MC makes ALL the difference while driving.
I was skeptical buying from them as I had only heard their name through this board, however I'm a fan now.Tick, just some feedback..... supply some bleeding instructions with the speed bleeder (I figured it out because my old stock MC was bad, but after reading some of the posts here, may save some headaches for others).
11-18-2009, 08:16 AM
#46
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Hey guys, sorry for teh disappearance there...it's been awhile (@ a week) since I last posted on a thread or so.
I will go over all of the posts from my last one, and get everyone updated, etc..
Thanks and sorry for any delays...(you guys know I am normally on here EVERY morning)
I will go over all of the posts from my last one, and get everyone updated, etc..
Thanks and sorry for any delays...(you guys know I am normally on here EVERY morning)
11-18-2009, 08:39 AM
#47
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The reason your two examples shift good without shims is because they need less than the .900" minus Xclearance" that you're measuring to dissengage fully. The spring under the tob eliminates the clearance on ALL setups. The only reason to ever shim is to increase the range of travel of the slave just so you don't over extend it (not the pp). For example, you could take the same clutch without a shim that has .300" clearance and drive it to see how it feels. Pull the tranny and install a .150" shim and I gaurantee the clutch would release/engage at the same points in relation to the pedals travel. The spring eliminates the clearance. Now if you shimmed it .350" and created negative clearance or "preload" the engagement point would be higher in relation to the pedal....but the clutch would probably start slipping prematurely.
With all that said lets say you have a clutch that needs to move the tob .600" to fully dissengage (probably not a monster based on your findings). If you only have .900" to work with on the slave to start with, and ideally you'd want .125" clearance in order to be sure that you're never preloading the pp your range of motion at the tob is now reduced to .775". If you had over .300" clearance, the clutch would never be fully dissengaged before the slave met its limit. This is all just theory, and every clutch/pp combo will be different. I'm not sure how much the stock master or our master at full stroke can move the tob , but it would be easy to set it up and see. Obviously, if our master is capable of moving the tob more distance that the available range of the slave after clearance is subtracted then it could over extend the slave/tob. For this reason, we ask everyone to check clearance and keep it around 1/8" (.125"). The more clearance you have, the less range of motion you have for the slave/tob.
As for over-extinding a pressure plate, you'll probably never over-extend one with a factory master. If that was possible, the clutch company would need to redesign the pp to prevent this from happening. Otherwise they'd be getting a bunch of angry calls lol. With our cylinder it is possible however. This is where common sense and following the directions about how to adjust the master comes into play.
With all that said lets say you have a clutch that needs to move the tob .600" to fully dissengage (probably not a monster based on your findings). If you only have .900" to work with on the slave to start with, and ideally you'd want .125" clearance in order to be sure that you're never preloading the pp your range of motion at the tob is now reduced to .775". If you had over .300" clearance, the clutch would never be fully dissengaged before the slave met its limit. This is all just theory, and every clutch/pp combo will be different. I'm not sure how much the stock master or our master at full stroke can move the tob , but it would be easy to set it up and see. Obviously, if our master is capable of moving the tob more distance that the available range of the slave after clearance is subtracted then it could over extend the slave/tob. For this reason, we ask everyone to check clearance and keep it around 1/8" (.125"). The more clearance you have, the less range of motion you have for the slave/tob.
As for over-extinding a pressure plate, you'll probably never over-extend one with a factory master. If that was possible, the clutch company would need to redesign the pp to prevent this from happening. Otherwise they'd be getting a bunch of angry calls lol. With our cylinder it is possible however. This is where common sense and following the directions about how to adjust the master comes into play.
OK, that' where my thinking got backwards. Thanks for clarifying. I was so caught up in trying to make some sense of it, that I completely overlooked teh basics. And that is why I was asking, as I THOUGHT i had thought of everything, and just kept scratching my head. No shame in my game to ask for help though. Thanks Jonathan
Thank you. Glad we can be of assistance for you guys. It is all in teh name of getting our stuff figured out for everyone to enjoy.
Thanks again Bearcatt...what I can say is that YOU have quite a bit to offer @ here as well, and have nothing but good things to say about you as well. Thanks again.
Thank you, very much appreciated.
OK, I have been tied up in teh shop over the last week, fighting some issues (customers cars) and trying to get those guys sorted out, which we did (last car left last night @ 7:30) so really did not have any time to answer posts/threads, so, my apologies on that. I normally try and check back EVERY morning, and spend 30min to 1 hour answering PM's and threads, more if time allows.
Thanks to all those that responded, and have contributed to this thread, much appreciated.
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