SPEC Stage 3 users I need some opinions.
11-17-2009, 01:14 PM
#1
SPEC Stage 3 users I need some opinions. I just bought a SPEC Stage 3 clutch and I must say it is a FINE looking piece of equipment. This thing looks wicked! Im going to install it here in a couple of weeks when I get some free time. I have a couple of questions though.
1) How do I know how many shims to use?
2) I'm having trouble finding the thread on the "drill mod".
3) What are some things to look out for when I'm installing this clutch?
4) How do I know if I need to re-surface my flywheel? The clutch that is in the car is a SLP clutch and as soon as I lay off in the throttle it slips so I know its gotten really hot.
5) What clutch fluid to you guys use?
6) How streetable is this clutch gonna be? Does it "chatter". Can you "feather" it out for around town driving or is it a In or Out clutch?
I read about it online before I bought it and that answered a couple of questions but not all. Thanks for your patience and answers guys.
1) How do I know how many shims to use?
2) I'm having trouble finding the thread on the "drill mod".
3) What are some things to look out for when I'm installing this clutch?
4) How do I know if I need to re-surface my flywheel? The clutch that is in the car is a SLP clutch and as soon as I lay off in the throttle it slips so I know its gotten really hot.
5) What clutch fluid to you guys use?
6) How streetable is this clutch gonna be? Does it "chatter". Can you "feather" it out for around town driving or is it a In or Out clutch?
I read about it online before I bought it and that answered a couple of questions but not all. Thanks for your patience and answers guys.
11-17-2009, 05:45 PM
#2
I can answer a few since I didn't install mine (LT1 car, btw):
4 - I would never install a new clutch w/o resurfacing the flywheel. I went with a brand new Spec Billet Steel flywheel.
5 - Normal DOT stuff works fine here.
6 - LOVE IT. Better feel than the stock clutch, IMO. Takes a beating at the track and is 150% streetable...takes a few more RPMs but I don't even notice it. I couldn't be happier with my choice after 2k miles. Pops when you want it to pop, slips nicely when you want it to be civil. Powershifts nicely too!
4 - I would never install a new clutch w/o resurfacing the flywheel. I went with a brand new Spec Billet Steel flywheel.
5 - Normal DOT stuff works fine here.
6 - LOVE IT. Better feel than the stock clutch, IMO. Takes a beating at the track and is 150% streetable...takes a few more RPMs but I don't even notice it. I couldn't be happier with my choice after 2k miles. Pops when you want it to pop, slips nicely when you want it to be civil. Powershifts nicely too!
11-17-2009, 05:54 PM
#3
On The Tree
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 168
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
DO NOT use the stock flywheel, buy a new one from SPEC...I wish I would have(my stock one had a viberation after being resurfaced)
I used one shim, took it easy on the clutch for a bit and then beat the hell out of it and I've got almost 35,000 miles on it and I have no idea how much longer it'll go...I'm changing to a tex twin because of the stock shitty flywheel that I have.
The clutch is nice, it dose have some chatter if you don't leave right but it's a great clutch and I'd buy another one if I stay around my current power level.
As far as the drillmod I never did it....the car didn't pull that good above 5800(stock long block) and that's where I had problems shifting so I would just power shift when I saw the tach hit 5500-5600.
I used one shim, took it easy on the clutch for a bit and then beat the hell out of it and I've got almost 35,000 miles on it and I have no idea how much longer it'll go...I'm changing to a tex twin because of the stock shitty flywheel that I have.
The clutch is nice, it dose have some chatter if you don't leave right but it's a great clutch and I'd buy another one if I stay around my current power level.
As far as the drillmod I never did it....the car didn't pull that good above 5800(stock long block) and that's where I had problems shifting so I would just power shift when I saw the tach hit 5500-5600.
11-17-2009, 08:02 PM
#4
i have been through 4 clutches and 3 SPEC's. My current one is a spec 3 that i am very happy with. it is grippy but fits my driving style very well. i am very happy with it and just bumped my power level to the 550 range so im gonna test it out a little
I just bought a SPEC Stage 3 clutch and I must say it is a FINE looking piece of equipment. This thing looks wicked! Im going to install it here in a couple of weeks when I get some free time. I have a couple of questions though.
1) How do I know how many shims to use?
i used one
2) I'm having trouble finding the thread on the "drill mod".
its around, do a search. i also had to make my 1999 master cylinder adjustable as well
3) What are some things to look out for when I'm installing this clutch?
take your time and follow torque specs and use loctite. 500 MILE BREAK-IN
4) How do I know if I need to re-surface my flywheel? The clutch that is in the car is a SLP clutch and as soon as I lay off in the throttle it slips so I know its gotten really hot.
i would HIGHLY recommend replacing your flywheel. but i have gotten away with resurfacing mine once before tossing it
5) What clutch fluid to you guys use?
regular cheap DOT3, high temp stuff isnt a bad idea though
6) How streetable is this clutch gonna be? Does it "chatter". Can you "feather" it out for around town driving or is it a In or Out clutch?
things get interesting here. my car is a rough street car, full rod end suspension, locker in the rear, etc and this thing pushed my limits. for the first 500 miles of break in it was VERY bad, would shake change outta the cupholder. i contemplated taking it out on more than one occasion but at the 500 mile mark i beat the **** outta it one the street and the track and it loosened right up and has be awesome ever since
I read about it online before I bought it and that answered a couple of questions but not all. Thanks for your patience and answers guys.
1) How do I know how many shims to use?
i used one
2) I'm having trouble finding the thread on the "drill mod".
its around, do a search. i also had to make my 1999 master cylinder adjustable as well
3) What are some things to look out for when I'm installing this clutch?
take your time and follow torque specs and use loctite. 500 MILE BREAK-IN
4) How do I know if I need to re-surface my flywheel? The clutch that is in the car is a SLP clutch and as soon as I lay off in the throttle it slips so I know its gotten really hot.
i would HIGHLY recommend replacing your flywheel. but i have gotten away with resurfacing mine once before tossing it
5) What clutch fluid to you guys use?
regular cheap DOT3, high temp stuff isnt a bad idea though
6) How streetable is this clutch gonna be? Does it "chatter". Can you "feather" it out for around town driving or is it a In or Out clutch?
things get interesting here. my car is a rough street car, full rod end suspension, locker in the rear, etc and this thing pushed my limits. for the first 500 miles of break in it was VERY bad, would shake change outta the cupholder. i contemplated taking it out on more than one occasion but at the 500 mile mark i beat the **** outta it one the street and the track and it loosened right up and has be awesome ever since
I read about it online before I bought it and that answered a couple of questions but not all. Thanks for your patience and answers guys.
11-18-2009, 09:23 AM
#5
Answers... 1) Our kits come with a single shim. You can check your measurement to determine if you need anything different by following the direction in the below thread posted by Tick Performance.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...need-shim.html
I have seen some varying depths for the stock slave which may affect your need for a shim so checking the perscribed measurements will help you insure that your set-up is correct.
2) If you Google search LS1 Drill mod you can find a number of instructionals for this. The most commonly used install guise is provided by Install University.
3) Checking the measurements described in answer 1 above and insureing that the flywheel is flat are both imperative. You can resurface a stock flywheel once but be sure that this hasn't been done before. If the flywheel is overly thin it will affect the clutch geometry and thus release. If you are not sure if the flywheel is good...replace it! It's better to do this job once. Also make sure that everything is torqued properly and that there are no leaks from the RMS, trans or hydraulics. I also suggest replacing the slave and master to insure that they are working as theyr should. These hydraulic systems are known for issues relative weak slave and master cylinders. At the very least replace the slave since you have to pull the trans to get to it.
4) See Answer 3 above!
5) I use and recommend Motul RBF600. It has a higher boiling point than the OE fluid and has worked great for me in countless applications that saw street driving and extreme use!
6) Our Stage 3 clutch uses a 6-puck carbon-semi-metallic sprung-hub disc and as such will be more agressive than stock in regards to engagement. Proper break-in can certainly make this clutch easier to drive but you should also be prepared for what to expect. If you want something smooter then I suggest a full-faced disc like a stage 1,2,2+ or 3+ depending on your torque output and planned use.
If you will provide a bit more info about your cars output and your usage plans for the unit I will be happy to make a recommendation for you. Let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks!
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...need-shim.html
I have seen some varying depths for the stock slave which may affect your need for a shim so checking the perscribed measurements will help you insure that your set-up is correct.
2) If you Google search LS1 Drill mod you can find a number of instructionals for this. The most commonly used install guise is provided by Install University.
3) Checking the measurements described in answer 1 above and insureing that the flywheel is flat are both imperative. You can resurface a stock flywheel once but be sure that this hasn't been done before. If the flywheel is overly thin it will affect the clutch geometry and thus release. If you are not sure if the flywheel is good...replace it! It's better to do this job once. Also make sure that everything is torqued properly and that there are no leaks from the RMS, trans or hydraulics. I also suggest replacing the slave and master to insure that they are working as theyr should. These hydraulic systems are known for issues relative weak slave and master cylinders. At the very least replace the slave since you have to pull the trans to get to it.
4) See Answer 3 above!
5) I use and recommend Motul RBF600. It has a higher boiling point than the OE fluid and has worked great for me in countless applications that saw street driving and extreme use!
6) Our Stage 3 clutch uses a 6-puck carbon-semi-metallic sprung-hub disc and as such will be more agressive than stock in regards to engagement. Proper break-in can certainly make this clutch easier to drive but you should also be prepared for what to expect. If you want something smooter then I suggest a full-faced disc like a stage 1,2,2+ or 3+ depending on your torque output and planned use.
If you will provide a bit more info about your cars output and your usage plans for the unit I will be happy to make a recommendation for you. Let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks!
