Spec 3+
Spec 3+ Anyone running the Spec 3+. I'm running a RAM Dual Street. I like the clutch but the rattle is making me crazy. I've got an FI friend who loves his Spec 3+. Don't track the car but do get stuck in rush hour traffic in DC so I need a smooth clutch. I was looking at a Monster 3.5 but they don't make them anymore. Every puck style I've seen has a downside and I'm done with twins.
Last edited by WKMCD; Dec 20, 2009 at 10:40 AM.
Iv got a Monster 3 in mine. Less power than you, but I love it. Grabs really nice and quick! and seems to hold up. Takin it to the track onces..Lots of street action.. DD in stop and go, let my g/f drive it..her legs shake lol ..Id look into the stage 4..
I love mine..
I love mine..
I have the 3+, its smooth enough for stop & go traffic. Its alittle grabby at first but you'll get use to it. Its never slipped on me and I've hit it many times with a 150 shot out of the hole (high 1.4's, low 1.5's) on slicks, then swapped back to street tires and drove on home like normal.
I'm really just trying to get rid of the rattle. Everything about my car has been done to keep it understated and driving as close to stock as possible. It's sort of a wolf in sheep's clothing thing. The rattle is annoying as hell but the RAM is a great clutch otherwise.
I know you dislike your RAM for balance and noise...is the floater strapped in that clutch? For what you use the car for...just go with a single disk plenty using the spec and monster clutch without issue....being you wont drag the car...even less a chance of issue...get a full disk if you want smooth. I wouldnt be scared with either since you have a competant installer
Edit...even better
heres your 500 dollar option...do a LS7 clutch and be done with it....plenty of guys making 550rwhp with their ls7s with no issues...its those drag racing with 550rwhp and the ls7 clutch that have issues hell stock ls7s drag racing have to really finesse it
Edit...even better
heres your 500 dollar option...do a LS7 clutch and be done with it....plenty of guys making 550rwhp with their ls7s with no issues...its those drag racing with 550rwhp and the ls7 clutch that have issues hell stock ls7s drag racing have to really finesse it
I know you dislike your RAM for balance and noise...is the floater strapped in that clutch? For what you use the car for...just go with a single disk plenty using the spec and monster clutch without issue....being you wont drag the car...even less a chance of issue...get a full disk if you want smooth. I wouldnt be scared with either since you have a competant installer
Edit...even better
heres your 500 dollar option...do a LS7 clutch and be done with it....plenty of guys making 550rwhp with their ls7s with no issues...its those drag racing with 550rwhp and the ls7 clutch that have issues hell stock ls7s drag racing have to really finesse it
Edit...even better
heres your 500 dollar option...do a LS7 clutch and be done with it....plenty of guys making 550rwhp with their ls7s with no issues...its those drag racing with 550rwhp and the ls7 clutch that have issues hell stock ls7s drag racing have to really finesse it
I was one of the first to put the LS7 clutch in an LS1. My 346 made 460RWHP and I loved the LS7 clutch. My 403 makes so much more grunt and I like to play with it I don't think the LS7 would last too long. I agree the with the full face disc which is why I'm pretty settled on the 3+. Peter Pan runs one with 770RWHP and loves it.
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WKMCD, The Stage 3+ is a great option for those seeking good street manners with high-torque capabilities. The numbers listed in your sig are easily covered by the Stage 3+. Let me know if you have any questions and I will be happy to assist you.
Source, I am not sure what twins you are referencing but our stage 3+ and Super-Twin offerings are extremely drivable. They were built to provide the best of both worlds and subsequently are fantastic on street or track. If you have any questions about our offerings you are welcome to contact me at any time. Thanks!
Source, I am not sure what twins you are referencing but our stage 3+ and Super-Twin offerings are extremely drivable. They were built to provide the best of both worlds and subsequently are fantastic on street or track. If you have any questions about our offerings you are welcome to contact me at any time. Thanks!
Its as aggressive with the clamping force but street manners it doesn't compare at all. I have the spec 3+ and would take it all day over my buddys twin disc in his ws6 that is already slipping with less miles on it than my spec.
Source, I am not sure what twins you are referencing but our stage 3+ and Super-Twin offerings are extremely drivable. They were built to provide the best of both worlds and subsequently are fantastic on street or track. If you have any questions about our offerings you are welcome to contact me at any time. Thanks!
Love the Spec 3+ in my car. It's streetable enough & hasn't slipped. Broke a half shaft during a launch (IRS); halfshaft gave way before the clutch would slip. IMO, the Spec 3+ is a great all around, higher torque related, clutch.
The 3+ is a decent clutch. It was stupid grabby at first to the point it was impossible to drive for 20 miles. But after 500 it smoothed out nicely and is easy to drive.
Mine had very good grip early on but clearly it has softened up after about 5K miles or so. It now wont grab third gear any longer like it used to. I recently replaced the TOB and saw that the disk has worn a measurable amount of surface off of the pressure plate and flywheel probaly to the tune of .030" each. The disk showed little wear.
Mine had very good grip early on but clearly it has softened up after about 5K miles or so. It now wont grab third gear any longer like it used to. I recently replaced the TOB and saw that the disk has worn a measurable amount of surface off of the pressure plate and flywheel probaly to the tune of .030" each. The disk showed little wear.
No worries at all Source. I just wanted folks to realize the difference/similarities of these units. Both are extremely drivable in my book though I realize that drivability can be a bit subjective.
wrd, where is the engagement point for your clutch relative to pedal travel (high or low)?
wrd, where is the engagement point for your clutch relative to pedal travel (high or low)?
Mine had very good grip early on but clearly it has softened up after about 5K miles or so. It now wont grab third gear any longer like it used to. I recently replaced the TOB and saw that the disk has worn a measurable amount of surface off of the pressure plate and flywheel probaly to the tune of .030" each. The disk showed little wear.
I've got around 5k on mine & it's still awesome. Just pulled & looked @ it while freshening the shortblock. Mine showed minimal wear on the PP & flywheel; maybe .001"-.005" & even that appeared to be just break-in wear (.000" in on place & .001"-.005" in another). Should also mention that I try to rev match & am careful not to slip it.
Do you have the shim installed? Do you use an adjustable master? An adjustable master w/ no shim can be used. Although, there is measurement required on the initial set-up to ensure that it can be installed without the shim. Regardless, if she's slipping & worn now, removing the shim may help, as long as there's enough slave cylinder travel to dissengage the clutch.
.030" each; wow, that's alot for 5k! May also explain why it was troublesome during break-in. Sounds like an install issue.
I've got around 5k on mine & it's still awesome. Just pulled & looked @ it while freshening the shortblock. Mine showed minimal wear on the PP & flywheel; maybe .001"-.005" & even that appeared to be just break-in wear (.000" in on place & .001"-.005" in another). Should also mention that I try to rev match & am careful not to slip it.
Do you have the shim installed? Do you use an adjustable master? An adjustable master w/ no shim can be used. Although, there is measurement required on the initial set-up to ensure that it can be installed without the shim. Regardless, if she's slipping & worn now, removing the shim may help, as long as there's enough slave cylinder travel to dissengage the clutch.
I've got around 5k on mine & it's still awesome. Just pulled & looked @ it while freshening the shortblock. Mine showed minimal wear on the PP & flywheel; maybe .001"-.005" & even that appeared to be just break-in wear (.000" in on place & .001"-.005" in another). Should also mention that I try to rev match & am careful not to slip it.
Do you have the shim installed? Do you use an adjustable master? An adjustable master w/ no shim can be used. Although, there is measurement required on the initial set-up to ensure that it can be installed without the shim. Regardless, if she's slipping & worn now, removing the shim may help, as long as there's enough slave cylinder travel to dissengage the clutch.
Might be exagertaing a bit t .030". Its easy to see and feel which means its more than just a few fractions. It installed right. Not sure how one can frig up a clutch unless the friction surface got contaminated with grease. I also babied it for 500 miles. One more thing, I am a "red headed LT1 step child" so not fancy master or cylinder was needed.
Clutch release point is very high on the pedal. No way to adjust it on LT1 hydros.
For daily driving and playing on the street it is good. But with stickies and strip use, I guarantee it has very minor slip that it did not have earlier in its life.
Last edited by wrd1972; Dec 21, 2009 at 02:06 PM.
Well, with an LT1 clutch wear leads to a lower pedal (pull-type clutches respond in the oposite way of push-type clutches). That being said there isn't really a reason for you to have a higher pedal with a plate, disc or flywheel that are worn. I suggest that you check the disc thickness with a mic to determine wear and let me know what you find. I am interested in seeing pics too if you have some. Thanks,
Well, with an LT1 clutch wear leads to a lower pedal (pull-type clutches respond in the oposite way of push-type clutches). That being said there isn't really a reason for you to have a higher pedal with a plate, disc or flywheel that are worn. I suggest that you check the disc thickness with a mic to determine wear and let me know what you find. I am interested in seeing pics too if you have some. Thanks,
