Spec 3+...Trouble getting into gear at high RPMss
03-11-2010, 06:51 PM
#21
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my stock clutch worked fine, i put a centerforce dual friction in and had the same problems you guys are. i upgraded the hydraulics and bought a cartek adjustable master and that fixed the issue. the centerforce went out on me and i switched to a spec stage 3+ and it has worked great with the upgraded hydraulics
Im going to do a serious bleed this weekend, I hope its just a air in the line issue.
03-11-2010, 07:26 PM
#22
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I think it is the master. It just can't handle pushing the pressure plate with that much load and it's by passing like spec said. I just know I have an issue but can't really point the finger at on thing. I also had this problem with the LS7 disk and pressure plate as well. I will try the drill mod first and see what happens. It's easier than clutch that's for sure. Only problem is my trans has to come out anyway. Having a lot of issues with decel vibrations and lots of syncro noise on down shift as well a squeak coming from the trans over 25. Don't know what the hell I did to it but it's done. I'd like to figure the clutch thing out before I pull the trans cause I don't want to do it again.
03-12-2010, 08:05 AM
#25
Our kits are designed to work with the stock hydraulics and have for thousands of customers. Of course, the key is insuring that your stock hydraulics are working properly. And, from the sounds of it, your's are not!
03-12-2010, 08:28 AM
#26
Spec doesn't need aftermarket hydrolics as said above.Truthfully we run all the clutches on stock hydrolics ,even hardcore racers that shift constantly at 7000rpm. Clutch setup and a correctly bled hydrolics is key.
Bleeding the clutch is not hard but most people still do it wrong by holding the peddle down then cracking the bleeder like it's a brake system.
Bleeding the clutch is not hard but most people still do it wrong by holding the peddle down then cracking the bleeder like it's a brake system.
03-12-2010, 01:18 PM
#27
03-12-2010, 01:51 PM
#28
I, for one, am a big believer in using a mighty-vac on both the bleeder valve and the reservoir. Slow may have his own method as well, but I have seen a mighty-vac take care of lots of folks that "had already gotten all the air out of the system". These systems cause more headache's for folks than anything else. But, at least they have a bleeder valve (though it isn't easy to access) which is more than I can say for a 2005+ Mustang!!!
03-12-2010, 02:15 PM
#29
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at 65k so Im sure my master is in fine shape.
and im running a brand new slave.
Ill be bleeding this weekend so ill keep the thread updated.
Good old school mechanic told me about how much he believes in gravity bleeding so ill give that a shot too.
03-12-2010, 03:15 PM
#30
I understand that they worked with the used stock clutch, but countless folks on this forum can atest to the fact that when you replace a clutch it's a good idea to replace the hydraulic as well. Even when installing a new stock unit. Please understand, I am not trying to argue with you, I am simply providing you with information relative to experience! Take it as you will I suppose and have a great weekend!
03-13-2010, 03:02 PM
#33
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So I gave it the ol' gravity bleed today.
It seems alittle easier to get into first gear and reverse.
.... But I couldnt do any w.o.t gear shifts since its raining out.
For those that dont know what gravity bleeding is:
1.) you just slightly loosen the bleeder screw just enough to let fluid drip out slowly.
2.) Wait
3.) fill the resivor up ( make sure you dnt let the fluid level get to low)
4.) wait some more
After about 2 hours of this I tighted up the bleeder , toped off the resivor and went for a ride.
The theory behind this is the fluid just slowly gravites down and pushes out any air that may be left in the system.
It seems alittle easier to get into first gear and reverse.
.... But I couldnt do any w.o.t gear shifts since its raining out.
For those that dont know what gravity bleeding is:
1.) you just slightly loosen the bleeder screw just enough to let fluid drip out slowly.
2.) Wait
3.) fill the resivor up ( make sure you dnt let the fluid level get to low)
4.) wait some more
After about 2 hours of this I tighted up the bleeder , toped off the resivor and went for a ride.
The theory behind this is the fluid just slowly gravites down and pushes out any air that may be left in the system.
03-28-2010, 03:37 PM
#34
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UPDATE :
SPEC is junk, I did some highway pulls last night and was able to get into gear. But to get into 4th and 5th gear above 6k required a massive amount of force. Way beyond anything you can call normal.
Plus I talked to a few other guys on the cadillac forums and they had the same issue with spec, 2 of them went with monster and have no issues now.
Wish I went with something else, but whats done is done.
Now time to decide wether I want a LS7 kit , a monster or the big $ dual
SPEC is junk, I did some highway pulls last night and was able to get into gear. But to get into 4th and 5th gear above 6k required a massive amount of force. Way beyond anything you can call normal.
Plus I talked to a few other guys on the cadillac forums and they had the same issue with spec, 2 of them went with monster and have no issues now.
Wish I went with something else, but whats done is done.
Now time to decide wether I want a LS7 kit , a monster or the big $ dual
03-28-2010, 03:52 PM
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Now that u say that, my Spec 3+ was being stupid when i took it out a few times over winter before I ripped her apart... it was slipping... I have now lost faith in that company too. Barely any miles on it. Well within the amount of torque it is said to handle.
03-28-2010, 04:08 PM
#36
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Not trying to hi-jack, but I have the 3+, aluminum flywheel, stock slave, and modded my stock master (I did the drill mod, cut the tip off the spring retainer in the master, and made the stocker adjustable) and have had zero issues. I did however take the time to properly break-in the clutch (1500 miles of stop and go traffic with no revs over 3k)
I still like the clutch, and have around 6000 miles on it, although I have heard of early failures with this clutch.
I still like the clutch, and have around 6000 miles on it, although I have heard of early failures with this clutch.
03-28-2010, 05:38 PM
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i have a spec 4 clutch with spec steel billet flywheel and tick master an tick speed bleeder an i must say that the tick speed bleeder is the best way to get air outta the system is worth the money
03-28-2010, 07:37 PM
#38
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Another master is out of the questions right now for the V. Nobody make one as of right now. Tick said they would look into it but I highly doubt it goes anywhere. Its not an issue of getting air out. The Spec pressure plate is a piece of ****. I know! I have one and its doing the same thing!
03-28-2010, 08:06 PM
#39
I think this statement keeps flying over their heads. So, I'll speak S-L-O-W-L-Y for them.
The clutch MUST be set up correctly. This means measure to see whether or not the clutch set up is dimensionally correct. You may not need the spacer & you made need a larger spacer, only measuring will determine this. Bleed the hydraulics correctly, no air.
Once the install is completed, test it's dissengagement by starting the car & pressing the clutch pedal to the floor, then put it in first gear & rev to 3000-3500 RPM. If the car moves forward, then the clutch is not fully dissengaged. This means shifting trouble will occur. So, then the installer must determine whether or not it's hydraulic or mechanical spacing related.
Aftermarket clutches can vary dimensionally from stock & the clutch spacing MUST be measured to insure correct spacing.
I don't know how the SPEC reps keep from slitting their wrists or @ the very least banging their heads against a wall. I have read far too many "trouble w/ my SPEC" threads that are nothing more than installer failure problems.
DIY clutch installers, learn how to install a clutch & don't jump to conclusions based on other incorrectly titled threads. I have broken a half shaft without my SPEC 3+ slipping & believe it or not, the clutch fully dissengages when the clutch pedal is pressed. Wow, how novel is that?
03-28-2010, 09:41 PM
#40
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I think this statement keeps flying over their heads. So, I'll speak S-L-O-W-L-Y for them.
The clutch MUST be set up correctly. This means measure to see whether or not the clutch set up is dimensionally correct. You may not need the spacer & you made need a larger spacer, only measuring will determine this. Bleed the hydraulics correctly, no air.
Once the install is completed, test it's dissengagement by starting the car & pressing the clutch pedal to the floor, then put it in first gear & rev to 3000-3500 RPM. If the car moves forward, then the clutch is not fully dissengaged. This means shifting trouble will occur. So, then the installer must determine whether or not it's hydraulic or mechanical spacing related.
Aftermarket clutches can vary dimensionally from stock & the clutch spacing MUST be measured to insure correct spacing.
I don't know how the SPEC reps keep from slitting their wrists or @ the very least banging their heads against a wall. I have read far too many "trouble w/ my SPEC" threads that are nothing more than installer failure problems.
DIY clutch installers, learn how to install a clutch & don't jump to conclusions based on other incorrectly titled threads. I have broken a half shaft without my SPEC 3+ slipping & believe it or not, the clutch fully dissengages when the clutch pedal is pressed. Wow, how novel is that?
The clutch MUST be set up correctly. This means measure to see whether or not the clutch set up is dimensionally correct. You may not need the spacer & you made need a larger spacer, only measuring will determine this. Bleed the hydraulics correctly, no air.
Once the install is completed, test it's dissengagement by starting the car & pressing the clutch pedal to the floor, then put it in first gear & rev to 3000-3500 RPM. If the car moves forward, then the clutch is not fully dissengaged. This means shifting trouble will occur. So, then the installer must determine whether or not it's hydraulic or mechanical spacing related.
Aftermarket clutches can vary dimensionally from stock & the clutch spacing MUST be measured to insure correct spacing.
I don't know how the SPEC reps keep from slitting their wrists or @ the very least banging their heads against a wall. I have read far too many "trouble w/ my SPEC" threads that are nothing more than installer failure problems.
DIY clutch installers, learn how to install a clutch & don't jump to conclusions based on other incorrectly titled threads. I have broken a half shaft without my SPEC 3+ slipping & believe it or not, the clutch fully dissengages when the clutch pedal is pressed. Wow, how novel is that?