Spec 3+...Trouble getting into gear at high RPMss
03-07-2010, 06:12 PM
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Spec 3+...Trouble getting into gear at high RPMss So ive had my spec 3+ for a few months now, only have about 2k on it.
Since day 1 I haven't liked this clutch, let off way to high trouble getting into gears at high RPMS. I havent really gotten on it since the car sat most of the winter. So today was nice out in new england and I took the car for a rip.
With about 2k on it, im having lots of issues getting into gear at high RPMs
It just doesnt wanna go into gear. sometimes 3rd gives me a problem sometimes 4th .
Im pretty sure its not the trans cause it shifted like butter with the stock clutch ( just started to slip... )
And I bled the hell out of this thing more then once now...
I did some searching and I know it could be a hydro problem, but its just wierd that Im having all these issues right after the spec install. plus I put a brand new slave during the install.
Anyone else have similar problems with the spec??
Since day 1 I haven't liked this clutch, let off way to high trouble getting into gears at high RPMS. I havent really gotten on it since the car sat most of the winter. So today was nice out in new england and I took the car for a rip.
With about 2k on it, im having lots of issues getting into gear at high RPMs
It just doesnt wanna go into gear. sometimes 3rd gives me a problem sometimes 4th .
Im pretty sure its not the trans cause it shifted like butter with the stock clutch ( just started to slip... )
And I bled the hell out of this thing more then once now...
I did some searching and I know it could be a hydro problem, but its just wierd that Im having all these issues right after the spec install. plus I put a brand new slave during the install.
Anyone else have similar problems with the spec??
03-07-2010, 07:31 PM
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Im not to fimilar with the t-56 hydro system.
Can you help explain to me why this is happening?
I dnt want to spend more money on extra parts and it turns out to be a issue with the spec clutch thats all...
03-07-2010, 07:39 PM
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At high rpm's the fluid heats up and the opening in the stock master is not big enough to let the fluid through as fast as it needs to. The tick master has a bigger opening to fix this and it is also adjustable
03-07-2010, 07:49 PM
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kinda Wish I went with a diffrent brand.
I just gotta find out if the C5 master fits the CTS-V
Last edited by maxspeed96ct; 03-08-2010 at 05:07 AM.
03-08-2010, 08:44 AM
#6
Max we have sold nearly 20K LS based clutches over the years, so saying that "everyone with spec has issues" is a bit over-exagerative. I can understand your frustration but assuming that it is clutch related may be jumping to conclusions. Are you still using the cars OE slave and master? Have you checked the color of your hydraulic fluid? Is it dark or discolored? Do you notice any change in engagement after pumping the pedal?
You seem to indicate two issues that could easily be the result of improperly functioning hydraulics...but both are contradictory. You say that is is hard to get into gear but you also mention that the engagement point is high. Generally speaking, those with difficulty in selecting gears at high RPM see engagement occur low relative to pedal travel. In these instances making sure that the shim we provide with our kits is in place is a good place to start. When engagement is high you should have to depress the pedal less to fully release the clutch. I suppose it is poissible that you are over-extending the clutch, pushing through it, which would cause the unit to re-engage. If this were the case though you would be able to shift better by depressing the pedal partially. Have you tried to shift with the pedal depressed 1/2 or 3/4 of the way down?
Let me know a bit more about your situation and I will be happy to assist you further. You can post, IM, or call me with questions at any time. Thanks,
You seem to indicate two issues that could easily be the result of improperly functioning hydraulics...but both are contradictory. You say that is is hard to get into gear but you also mention that the engagement point is high. Generally speaking, those with difficulty in selecting gears at high RPM see engagement occur low relative to pedal travel. In these instances making sure that the shim we provide with our kits is in place is a good place to start. When engagement is high you should have to depress the pedal less to fully release the clutch. I suppose it is poissible that you are over-extending the clutch, pushing through it, which would cause the unit to re-engage. If this were the case though you would be able to shift better by depressing the pedal partially. Have you tried to shift with the pedal depressed 1/2 or 3/4 of the way down?
Let me know a bit more about your situation and I will be happy to assist you further. You can post, IM, or call me with questions at any time. Thanks,
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03-08-2010, 12:18 PM
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Does this affect every gear? Generally speaking if this were clutch related it would affect every gear. If it were transmission related it could affect specific gears only. And, if it were hydraulic there would normally be inconsistency. Let me know more about specifics and I will be happy to discuss this with your further. Thanks,
03-08-2010, 03:24 PM
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Does this affect every gear? Generally speaking if this were clutch related it would affect every gear. If it were transmission related it could affect specific gears only. And, if it were hydraulic there would normally be inconsistency. Let me know more about specifics and I will be happy to discuss this with your further. Thanks,
The slave is brand new bought from you guys with the kit, and the shim is the one you guys sent with the kit.
The Brake fluid is all new since I did the swap , DOT 3 ... Would a diffrent brake fluid help like dot 4 ?
I also will try the clutch pedal half way theory just cause Ill try anything at this point.
03-08-2010, 03:59 PM
#10
In understand that you installed a new slave and that as such you have new fluid, but, if you are boiling the fluid or if there is still air in the system that was never eliminated by bleeding then it could still be an issue. I talk to folks every day, with all sorts of parts from every manufacture, that have issued with air in the system. In fact, I have had two customers bring cars to us from out-of-state because they were convinced that they had clutch issues only to find that air in the system was their real issue. Have you used a mighty-vac? Have you attached to the bleeder-valve, located off the slave and from the reservoir?
03-08-2010, 07:50 PM
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In understand that you installed a new slave and that as such you have new fluid, but, if you are boiling the fluid or if there is still air in the system that was never eliminated by bleeding then it could still be an issue. I talk to folks every day, with all sorts of parts from every manufacture, that have issued with air in the system. In fact, I have had two customers bring cars to us from out-of-state because they were convinced that they had clutch issues only to find that air in the system was their real issue. Have you used a mighty-vac? Have you attached to the bleeder-valve, located off the slave and from the reservoir?
I have done everything but used the Vac, to be honest I dont think its nessecary and should be fine from just pumping the clutch.
But I did try shifitng with the clutch pedal only half engaged and it seemed to help as crazy as it sounds to me.
Ill have to try to it again another day didnt have much time with the car today.
03-10-2010, 07:15 PM
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I have a spec 3 and I am having the same issues. I have a Fidanza LS7 flywheel and a Spec stage 3 disc and pressure plate. Didn't have any problems for the first 2 weeks. After that I started getting some problems. First was the pedal sticking to the floor and having to pump the pedal to get it up but only over 5k. Also, after 5k, when I try to depress the pedal, it is very hard to push down. When it does this I can't get the car out of gear. I have to let the rpms come back down then pump the pedal to get it to shift out of gear. I thought ok maybe I need a new slave. Just for ***** and giggles I installed a new slave and a new master. I bleed the car by hand and went for a drive, same problem. I bled and bled and bled it and still it sticks and has a hard pedal past 5k. I though maybe I didn't get all the air out. Maybe I need better fluid. I bought Castrol SRF at $80 a liter and bought a power bleeder and I still have the same issue. It's not any better, not any worse. If I shift under 4500 I don't have a problem. EVERYTIME I shift at or past 5k, the pedal is hard to depress and sticks to the floor. The clutch has less than 2k miles on it.
03-10-2010, 09:29 PM
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Tick most likely doesn't have a master for a CTS-V. Looks like I'll be trying the drill mod. I've never had to do it so I've never really asked what's involved. Where exactly do we drill and to what size?
Thanks
Thanks
03-11-2010, 10:13 AM
#17
Raven, Because the set-up was fine initially and worked like a champ for two weeks it's safe to say that the parts are functioning. You seem to be having a fluid transfer issue, as I mentioned above. It could be bettered by the drill mod, or you could have an issue occuring within the slave or master. If your are by-passing fluid internally then this could also cause these issues. Let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks,
03-11-2010, 01:42 PM
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And 2 guys on the cadi forums have done the drill mod and it didnt help them. They ended up going with diffrent clutches.
I just dished out 900$, so I realy dnt want to junk this and go with a diffrent brand just yet cause it does shift well under 4,500 rpms ....
And I dont think its possible for me to vac bleed since I dont have a remote bleeder ( tic didnt make one yet and I didnt know LAPD did till after my install )
03-11-2010, 02:05 PM
#19
You should still be able use a Mighty-vac without a remote-bleeder. At the very least you can connect to the reservoir and bleed from their. Have you take any measurements relative to the link below. If not, it may shed some light on your issue. I have a CTS-V outside right now that has out stage 3+ and steel flywheel in it and it works like a dream. It is using the same set-up that I would sell anyone else! I just wanted you to know that I have a point of reference for the vehicle too...
03-11-2010, 06:38 PM
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my stock clutch worked fine, i put a centerforce dual friction in and had the same problems you guys are. i upgraded the hydraulics and bought a cartek adjustable master and that fixed the issue. the centerforce went out on me and i switched to a spec stage 3+ and it has worked great with the upgraded hydraulics