mannyman84

iTrader: (2)

Well, for some weird reason when I drive my car hard the clutch pedal doesn't come out all the way and feels like if I'm ridding the clutch. After I pump it it goes back to normal. Any ideas? :-/ I probably need a new clutch now because I did a burnout at the burnout box at the track and I thought I was spinning the wheels and figured after I launched my clutch was not grabbing. thanks ahead of time.

bongva

iTrader: (7)

while you replace the clutch dont forget to put in a new slave cylinder/clutch master cylinder (tick) it will cure all your problems

mannyman84

iTrader: (2)

Cool. Thnx Will do.

RiceEaterZ

iTrader: (6)

sounds like your boiling your brake fluid. Don't forget the drill mod.

remote bleeders are the shiet

mannyman84

iTrader: (2)

^^^^ you know what man. I checked the clutch fluid and seems like it's never been changed at all. It's the blackest oil I've ever seen...kinda muddy too. It should help changing it too right?

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

Flush and re-fill the system before assuming that the clutch needs to be replaced. If the hydraulics are in fact the issue (which is likely based on your description of the fluid) this may solve your issues. I know that you slipped the clutch at the track but take it one step at a time. Please feel free to let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks,

mannyman84

iTrader: (2)

Cool thanks man I appreciate it. Clutch has been acting ok after the track. I guess these are early signs of the clutch dying. It only slips when I start pulling hard like around 4k+ but at higher speeds it won't slip. Obviously because I have no load right

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

The fluid is toast. I had this issue WAAAAY back when I still had a stick in my car. I used to change the fluid every oil change. pita to do, but I did it every oil change, and I did that about every 2000 miles.

I also used DOT4 fluid, not sure if it helped, but once I started changing it and went to the DOT4 it was alot better. I had a spec 4I clutch in the car, which IMO was one of the best ones out at the time (2004) and it took a TON of abuse and never let me down. Stock master with the drill mod, that was it.

Konstantine16

Don't mean to jack this thread but is there any clutch fluid besides dot4 that would work and last longer? an additive perhaps? My clutch fluid is the color black also and the shifts are rough

'02TA

I change my fluid every time I drive the car. Use a syringe to suck the fluid out of the reservoir, clean the container and pour in new fluid. Takes 3 mins max. I use Ranger's clutch fluid protocol to prevent any clutch hydraulic issues.

For those who don't know about Ranger's advice:

http://www.rangeracceleration.com/Clutch_Care.html

mannyman84

iTrader: (2)

^^^but won't just taking out the fluid in the little container just replace that one? What about the ones in the line?

mannyman84

iTrader: (2)

And can someone explain in detail what a drill mod is please. I not that familiar with clutches.

98LS1Kid

iTrader: (2)

This was taken from a sticky. Manual Transmission FAQ - Look Here First!

Manual Transmissions FAQ

1. What is the drill mod?

To sum it up, basically GM didn’t think things through all the way when selecting the hydraulic lines for your T56. The steel braided line that plugs into the master cylinder has a tiny, tiny hole in it, which causes unnecessary restriction. During a quick, high-rpm shift, fluid cannot get where it needs to go fast enough, so basically it will feel like you are shifting without a clutch. It may be difficult or impossible to shift into 2nd or 3rd, and you may have some problems with the pedal itself.

When performing the drill mod, you remove the master cylinder, separate the line from the cylinder, and drill it out. To visit a site with full information and pictures, click HERE. It will be listed under the Transmission section, along with the adjustable master cylinder install (although you can do the drill mod without changing the master).

mannyman84

iTrader: (2)

Cool. I see now, thanks for the 411