High RPM shifting issues! HElp!
#1
High RPM shifting issues! HElp!
So I just got the AFR's installed and the car has been street tuned. Car pulls like a raped ape...however now I can't shift it into gear above 6k rpms. Like, I can hit one gear good, and then one of two things happen...1.) The clutch pedal gets real close to the floor (master cylinder issue?? Need drill mod done??). or 2.) I can't get into gear at all, it's like I hit a wall trying to shift. The car used to shift like butter before the heads, however I will say the clutch pedal did tend to get close to the floor after a few hard shifts when I was cam only...just not this bad. My trans shifts smooth below 6k, it's a solid tranny. My clutch is a centerforce dual friction clutch with maybe 20-25k miles on it. Slave cylinder was replaced with the trans/clutch/flywheel. And the master had issues about a year or more ago and was leaking fluid so I changed it out with a cheapo $70 master cylinder from a local auto parts store. The only difference is the master I replaced it with DID NOT have the drill mod done to it. I can't remember if my old master WITH the drill mod worked better, as I was making about 100rwhp less at that time LOL. Ideas? Ways to test and separate these multiple issues? Are they related or completely separate? Tuner says it's probably my clutch, or that my master needs the drill mod...What do ya'll think? Thanks.
-Tony
-Tony
#7
TECH Resident
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Location: Rowlett, TX
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Exactly, that is one fine piece of hardware, never looked back after the buy/install, to the OP, if you can afford AFR heads, you need to go ahead and get the Tick MC, and probablly a Monster Clutch while your in there.
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#8
FUUUUUCK...whatever it is...I need it fixed lol. I did look at the brake fluid in the reservoir, and it was very dirty. Changed it out, will see if that helps tomorrow if the streets are dry.
Last edited by squale iii; 04-23-2010 at 06:19 PM.
#9
#10
So, funny story... I changed out my dark murky looking 1+ year old brake fluid from my hydraulics...and just made a full pass on the street (20mph-120+) and hit every gear. It felt much better. We will see if this was just a fluke as I beat on it this weekend... I'm very happy though, the pedal didn't feel soft at any point. So if your brake fluid is old, change it!
#11
TECH Resident
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2 other things.....20-25k on a performance clutch and it's done. Replace that when you get a chance, and stay away from the part store's mater cyl.'s they are junk. Tick FTW. And if you don't have the $$ put a stock GM in it, now that auto store crap.
But yes, the fluid should stay looking clear. When it start's to get old/boil it will turn a darker color. Brown...leading to black....that is never good. Keeping the fluid clean will keep the hydro. system running better, and longer.
But yes, the fluid should stay looking clear. When it start's to get old/boil it will turn a darker color. Brown...leading to black....that is never good. Keeping the fluid clean will keep the hydro. system running better, and longer.
#12
2 other things.....20-25k on a performance clutch and it's done. Replace that when you get a chance, and stay away from the part store's mater cyl.'s they are junk. Tick FTW. And if you don't have the $$ put a stock GM in it, now that auto store crap.
But yes, the fluid should stay looking clear. When it start's to get old/boil it will turn a darker color. Brown...leading to black....that is never good. Keeping the fluid clean will keep the hydro. system running better, and longer.
But yes, the fluid should stay looking clear. When it start's to get old/boil it will turn a darker color. Brown...leading to black....that is never good. Keeping the fluid clean will keep the hydro. system running better, and longer.
So in conclusion, make sure the fluid in your hydraulics is clean... and if you have an adjustable master, make sure it's set right and working properly! If it's not engaging/disengaging properly, I'm pretty sure that causes misshifts and what not at high rpm's.
#14