squale iii

So I just got the AFR's installed and the car has been street tuned. Car pulls like a raped ape...however now I can't shift it into gear above 6k rpms. Like, I can hit one gear good, and then one of two things happen...1.) The clutch pedal gets real close to the floor (master cylinder issue?? Need drill mod done??). or 2.) I can't get into gear at all, it's like I hit a wall trying to shift. The car used to shift like butter before the heads, however I will say the clutch pedal did tend to get close to the floor after a few hard shifts when I was cam only...just not this bad. My trans shifts smooth below 6k, it's a solid tranny. My clutch is a centerforce dual friction clutch with maybe 20-25k miles on it. Slave cylinder was replaced with the trans/clutch/flywheel. And the master had issues about a year or more ago and was leaking fluid so I changed it out with a cheapo $70 master cylinder from a local auto parts store. The only difference is the master I replaced it with DID NOT have the drill mod done to it. I can't remember if my old master WITH the drill mod worked better, as I was making about 100rwhp less at that time LOL. Ideas? Ways to test and separate these multiple issues? Are they related or completely separate? Tuner says it's probably my clutch, or that my master needs the drill mod...What do ya'll think? Thanks.

-Tony

6.0 silverado

iTrader: (2)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...-write-up.html

squale iii

awesome thanks!

lazyhomie

iTrader: (3)

I did the drill mod on mine and was useless I'm about to try to replace the master again with a 70 bucks one from auto parts see if hopefully this solves my issue too.

6.0 silverado

iTrader: (2)

Drill mod did nothing for me either. I am all about the tick m/c, but I know it is a little more pricey. You get what you pay for!

BES Stroked Nova

iTrader: (24)

tick master is the best way for the fix. and stock unit from gm with the line drilled is a temp fix.

Titanws6

iTrader: (35)

Exactly, that is one fine piece of hardware, never looked back after the buy/install, to the OP, if you can afford AFR heads, you need to go ahead and get the Tick MC, and probablly a Monster Clutch while your in there.

squale iii

FUUUUUCK...whatever it is...I need it fixed lol. I did look at the brake fluid in the reservoir, and it was very dirty. Changed it out, will see if that helps tomorrow if the streets are dry.

squale iii

Why is it temporary? What does the tick do differently?

squale iii

So, funny story... I changed out my dark murky looking 1+ year old brake fluid from my hydraulics...and just made a full pass on the street (20mph-120+) and hit every gear. It felt much better. We will see if this was just a fluke as I beat on it this weekend... I'm very happy though, the pedal didn't feel soft at any point. So if your brake fluid is old, change it!

Chris05ssTruck

iTrader: (9)

2 other things.....20-25k on a performance clutch and it's done. Replace that when you get a chance, and stay away from the part store's mater cyl.'s they are junk. Tick FTW. And if you don't have the $$ put a stock GM in it, now that auto store crap.

But yes, the fluid should stay looking clear. When it start's to get old/boil it will turn a darker color. Brown...leading to black....that is never good. Keeping the fluid clean will keep the hydro. system running better, and longer.

squale iii

Ya, well. Today me and a buddy investigated my clutch pedal/master cylinder more in depth. I could always tell the last few months that the pedal had a good centimeter or so of play before it would even push the master cylinder's pushrod in. So the clutch wasn't fully disengaging (or is it engaging I'm thinking of??). Well, to explain better, I have a auto parts store master cyl, except the end piece that attaches to the clutch pedal is modified with an adjustable piece with a lock nut that my tuner hooked me up with awhile ago. Anyhow, the set screw...mysteriously...wasn't there. So the thing was moving freely for about 1/4 of a centimeter or so. Well, bought a new set screw, adjusted the piece down to the position where we'd have the right preload on the pushrod, and put the new set screw in with LOCK TITE. Now the clutch pedal feels so smooth it's not funny. Has pressure the whole way down and up instead of having a "play" zone where it's not doing anything. Have yet to test it out since it's raining today, but I have a feeling I'll be banging gears with no problem now. I know the clutch has alot of miles, but I don't abuse it and I rarely miss gears. Most of those miles were from my daily driving it. I'm not grinding it often or anything like that.

So in conclusion, make sure the fluid in your hydraulics is clean... and if you have an adjustable master, make sure it's set right and working properly! If it's not engaging/disengaging properly, I'm pretty sure that causes misshifts and what not at high rpm's.

maxspeed96ct

iTrader: (3)

maybe I missed it but what brand clutch do you have ?

BTW drill mod didnt work for me either..

squale iii

Centerforce DF. And the car shifted flawlessly the other day. I made a full pass and had perfect clutch pedal movement&pressure the whole time.