Pilot Bearing Removal (the easy way)
#1
12 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 126
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Pilot Bearing Removal (the easy way)
Hey everyone I just installed a new monster stg 3 clutch and adjustable master and thought I would share how I removed my pilot bearing. BTW this clutch rocks!
Anyways like a lot of other ppl here I rented the blind hole puller from autozone to try to get the sucker out and it wasn't budging one bit. Ruined the bearing trying to get it out so it had to come out. My dad told me to use a die grinder to release the pressure and it would come out easier. Here's what I did.
I ground down two opposite sides as much as I could without completely breaking through the walls. Then used the autozone slide hammer and it came right out without much force at all.
If you have the tools to do it this way, this will save you time and energy. Hope this helps you guys.
Anyways like a lot of other ppl here I rented the blind hole puller from autozone to try to get the sucker out and it wasn't budging one bit. Ruined the bearing trying to get it out so it had to come out. My dad told me to use a die grinder to release the pressure and it would come out easier. Here's what I did.
I ground down two opposite sides as much as I could without completely breaking through the walls. Then used the autozone slide hammer and it came right out without much force at all.
If you have the tools to do it this way, this will save you time and energy. Hope this helps you guys.
#7
TECH Addict
iTrader: (11)
I had no problems either with the blind hole puller from autozone. I did have to knock the pin out of one of the "teeth" of the puller to get both to fit in through the bearing and then reinstall the pin prior to attaching the slide hammer. 4 lb slide hammer got it out in about 15-20 shots.
Trending Topics
The following users liked this post:
JoshHefnerX (07-15-2020)
#12
TECH Resident
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 835
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
basically, when they cast the block they fill the water jackets, along with other areas, with sand, after the casting is cooled they will put the block on a shaker table and all the sand comes out
just did the removal today- used the autozone puller and just took it apart, put the 2 jaws in the bearing, and put the puller back together... only took like 5 hits with the bigass slide hammer they gave me- made me question why anyone would complain about doing the job
just did the removal today- used the autozone puller and just took it apart, put the 2 jaws in the bearing, and put the puller back together... only took like 5 hits with the bigass slide hammer they gave me- made me question why anyone would complain about doing the job
#13
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Stockbridge, MI
Posts: 724
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It's a Galley plug from when the crank was drilled. If you use bread, or grease, or wet paper, you will push it in, and have oil all over your new clutch. These used to be popular methods on smallblocks and other engines, but cannot be use on the LSx engines because of the plug.
BTW i didnt mean to sound like a dick to Speed Density.
BTW i didnt mean to sound like a dick to Speed Density.
#14
TECH Resident
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Flint, MI
Posts: 846
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rented a slide hammer from advance. Ended up using one of the jaw puller attachments since the regular hook didn't fit. Got it out in like 5 pulls no sweat. Highly recommend this method.
#18
Kleeborp the Moderator™
iTrader: (11)
Seems like everyone is trying to reinvent the wheel with this task...a slide hammer with a pilot bearing puller attachment works just fine. You won't get the pilot bearing puller in with both arms in place, so you have to remove one of the arms (which means you'll be removing the pin that holds it in place). Once you get the arms in, you just put the pin you removed back in place, and use the tool as intended.
10-15 slams of the slide hammer, and I had a pilot bearing in my hands last night.
10-15 slams of the slide hammer, and I had a pilot bearing in my hands last night.
#20
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Stockbridge, MI
Posts: 724
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Cause there is a freeze plug in the end of the crank, and you will push it in, and oil will leak out of it, causing potential pre-mature clutch failure due to contamination.
Honestly, its in there so good, i dont know how you would push it out with greese to begin with. I bet you have to build up a good 150psi behind it to push it out. Maybe not that much, but it really takes a good hit with a large slide hammer to free it.
This is only an LSX motor issue, on SBC's and LT1's there is no plug in the end of the crank, and i believe its just a pilot bushing which is lightly pressed in. Some people wad up bread and stuff it in there and wait for it to expand and push the bearing out. There is no way bread would push out an LS1 pilot bearing.
Honestly, its in there so good, i dont know how you would push it out with greese to begin with. I bet you have to build up a good 150psi behind it to push it out. Maybe not that much, but it really takes a good hit with a large slide hammer to free it.
This is only an LSX motor issue, on SBC's and LT1's there is no plug in the end of the crank, and i believe its just a pilot bushing which is lightly pressed in. Some people wad up bread and stuff it in there and wait for it to expand and push the bearing out. There is no way bread would push out an LS1 pilot bearing.