T56 Rebuilds Stage 1 - $540, Stage 2 - $680, Stage 3 - $1380
#21
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Not to throw a wrench into anyones fan but the prices listed about average really.
The stage 1 kit includes a syncro ring kit, fork pads, keys and wires with bench labor.
A syncro ring kit is about $180, the pads are about $20 and the keys and wires are another $15 or so. Thats a total of $215.00 in parts. The rest is labor.
The stage 1 kit includes a syncro ring kit, fork pads, keys and wires with bench labor.
A syncro ring kit is about $180, the pads are about $20 and the keys and wires are another $15 or so. Thats a total of $215.00 in parts. The rest is labor.
But way to be a dick and try to ruin this thread.
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A stage 2 rebuild here in this thread is $680. You get new syncros rings, stock fork pads, keys and wires along with a steel 3-4 shift fork and 3-4 billet keys.
A stage 2 rebuild from a shop like Tick gets you new syncro rings, bronze fork pads for 1-4, stock pads for 5-6-r, new 1-2 syncronizer assembly, new 3-4 syncronizer assembly, front seal, rear seal and billet shift keys for the 3-4 assembly. So basically you are adding another $280ish in parts replaced to the price of the stage 2 rebuild listed above.
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dont want to hate this tread up any more, but thesource is right...new bearingsare 160 extra, and if you want the bronze 1-4 fork pads i think theyre 120 more. and you still dont have new syncros.
i think the best deal going with a t56 rebuild is still morris motorsports (.net) they do one about like tick for 900 plus shipping. so for 220 more you get new syncros, bronze fork pads 1-4, and everything in the competetors kit.
also dont want to knock tick out of the race here either! just saying, i try pinching penny's here and there, and im hurting after i made the call to mwc....and low and behold my 6th gear is now a bitch to get into gear....lmao...thats how it works...
i think the best deal going with a t56 rebuild is still morris motorsports (.net) they do one about like tick for 900 plus shipping. so for 220 more you get new syncros, bronze fork pads 1-4, and everything in the competetors kit.
also dont want to knock tick out of the race here either! just saying, i try pinching penny's here and there, and im hurting after i made the call to mwc....and low and behold my 6th gear is now a bitch to get into gear....lmao...thats how it works...
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if you look at the TDP kits you will notice that they're kinda incomplete (compared to others).their stage 2 doesnt come with syncro assemblies or bronze pads. if you add them, its around the same price as the other companies.
i for one am appreciative, because i too got sucked into the numbers that TDP posted, and after he pointed out WHY the numbers are so cheap, i THANKED him. then i ordered a complete DIY stage 2 from him for 615 shipped to my door.
btw....niether him nor i are trying to bash TDP, just pointing out what might be goin un-noticed
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I'm not trying to be a dick at all. I am simply pointing out that the parts included in these rebuilds are about averagely priced. A stage 2 rebuild at one shop is not the same as other shops who install more parts. Let me explain in a little greater detail for people unfamiliar with T56 rebuilds.
A stage 2 rebuild here in this thread is $680. You get new syncros rings, stock fork pads, keys and wires along with a steel 3-4 shift fork and 3-4 billet keys.
A stage 2 rebuild from a shop like Tick gets you new syncro rings, bronze fork pads for 1-4, stock pads for 5-6-r, new 1-2 syncronizer assembly, new 3-4 syncronizer assembly, front seal, rear seal and billet shift keys for the 3-4 assembly. So basically you are adding another $280ish in parts replaced to the price of the stage 2 rebuild listed above.
A stage 2 rebuild here in this thread is $680. You get new syncros rings, stock fork pads, keys and wires along with a steel 3-4 shift fork and 3-4 billet keys.
A stage 2 rebuild from a shop like Tick gets you new syncro rings, bronze fork pads for 1-4, stock pads for 5-6-r, new 1-2 syncronizer assembly, new 3-4 syncronizer assembly, front seal, rear seal and billet shift keys for the 3-4 assembly. So basically you are adding another $280ish in parts replaced to the price of the stage 2 rebuild listed above.
I don't include the new 1-2 and 3-4 sliders due to the fact that you don't ALWAYS need them. It's not a one-size-fits-all type of deal. So I include the essentials, then go from there. It's not un-common at all for one of my rebuilds to reach $1000+ due to additional parts needed (sliders, gears, etc). A lot of shops try to take advantage of the customer's lack of knowledge, and over-charge for this type of work. So maybe thats why it seems so 'cheap'.
Also, I do not like to use the bronze fork pads because they are insufficient (dare I say). I have disassembled 3 different T56s recently to find excessive wear on the bronze pads. Bronze is a soft metal which is not designed to glide in the groove in the slider gears, which are made of hardened steel. The stock nylon pads were engineered to glide and resist wear. Even though, the bronze pads are harder and durable, THAT IS NOT WHAT WE NEED. The pads need to be able to resist wear and the stock pads do a better job of it that the bronze ones. So there I said it, the stock pads are better.
Even after all of this, I still stock the bronze pads for people who want them installed anyway.
Hope this clears things up!
-Jason
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Also, I do not like to use the bronze fork pads because they are insufficient (dare I say). I have disassembled 3 different T56s recently to find excessive wear on the bronze pads. Bronze is a soft metal which is not designed to glide in the groove in the slider gears, which are made of hardened steel. The stock nylon pads were engineered to glide and resist wear. Even though, the bronze pads are harder and durable, THAT IS NOT WHAT WE NEED. The pads need to be able to resist wear and the stock pads do a better job of it that the bronze ones. So there I said it, the stock pads are better.
Even after all of this, I still stock the bronze pads for people who want them installed anyway.
Hope this clears things up!
-Jason
Even after all of this, I still stock the bronze pads for people who want them installed anyway.
Hope this clears things up!
-Jason
http://www.camaroperformers.com/cama.../photo_15.html
My points to this debate would be:
1) I've never pulled "broken" bronze pads out of a T56 like I have the nylon ones. And when the pads go, they usually take out several hundred dollars worth of other parts with them.
2) The bronze pads I've dealt with, tend towards the upper end of the tolerance and I can see them clearancing themselves but then not wearing further.
3) When the fork is in neutral for that gear pair, there should be no side loading on the pads to cause abnormal wear. (unless the driver is resting their hand on the shift **** after shifting)
4) The ATF fluid will lubricate the pad/slider interface during normal operation. Unless it wasn't sufficiently lubricated during assembly/breakin or if it's a primary drag car that won't get as much fluid splash during 1/4-mile (1/8-mile) runs..
So I would love to see more data on the topic. I'm sure I haven't touched a fraction of the T56s you guys have, but when I'm seeing over 50% failure rate of one or more nylon pads in the units I have opened up, I think something is going on.
thanks
mike
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I'm sorry to take your thread on a tangent and will happily open up a new thread if you'd prefer. I've seen this response before from RSG:
http://www.camaroperformers.com/cama.../photo_15.html
My points to this debate would be:
1) I've never pulled "broken" bronze pads out of a T56 like I have the nylon ones. And when the pads go, they usually take out several hundred dollars worth of other parts with them.
2) The bronze pads I've dealt with, tend towards the upper end of the tolerance and I can see them clearancing themselves but then not wearing further.
3) When the fork is in neutral for that gear pair, there should be no side loading on the pads to cause abnormal wear. (unless the driver is resting their hand on the shift **** after shifting)
4) The ATF fluid will lubricate the pad/slider interface during normal operation. Unless it wasn't sufficiently lubricated during assembly/breakin or if it's a primary drag car that won't get as much fluid splash during 1/4-mile (1/8-mile) runs..
So I would love to see more data on the topic. I'm sure I haven't touched a fraction of the T56s you guys have, but when I'm seeing over 50% failure rate of one or more nylon pads in the units I have opened up, I think something is going on.
thanks
mike
http://www.camaroperformers.com/cama.../photo_15.html
My points to this debate would be:
1) I've never pulled "broken" bronze pads out of a T56 like I have the nylon ones. And when the pads go, they usually take out several hundred dollars worth of other parts with them.
2) The bronze pads I've dealt with, tend towards the upper end of the tolerance and I can see them clearancing themselves but then not wearing further.
3) When the fork is in neutral for that gear pair, there should be no side loading on the pads to cause abnormal wear. (unless the driver is resting their hand on the shift **** after shifting)
4) The ATF fluid will lubricate the pad/slider interface during normal operation. Unless it wasn't sufficiently lubricated during assembly/breakin or if it's a primary drag car that won't get as much fluid splash during 1/4-mile (1/8-mile) runs..
So I would love to see more data on the topic. I'm sure I haven't touched a fraction of the T56s you guys have, but when I'm seeing over 50% failure rate of one or more nylon pads in the units I have opened up, I think something is going on.
thanks
mike
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#33
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okay from what you guys have said im seeing with my own eyes.. im lookin for a stage 2 myself, just ordered a new fidanza clutch kit with a aluminum flywheel for my 98 vette... well I know I need new synchros no doubt. and with the sliders I myself thought the plastic ones would be a faster shift but any who. I wanna build my tranny to where I don't have to worry about anything goin wrong ya know. soo really I don't know if u usually need to replace the gears on a stock vette with 90k miles? I just need a link for a bad *** rebuild kit mainly with synchros, rings bad *** non china made bearings. some one shoot me a link with a kit I need please. someone that's done this already and knows what needs to be replaced without me ordering a bunch of extra parts I wont need. thank you guys..
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okay from what you guys have said im seeing with my own eyes.. im lookin for a stage 2 myself, just ordered a new fidanza clutch kit with a aluminum flywheel for my 98 vette... well I know I need new synchros no doubt. and with the sliders I myself thought the plastic ones would be a faster shift but any who. I wanna build my tranny to where I don't have to worry about anything goin wrong ya know. soo really I don't know if u usually need to replace the gears on a stock vette with 90k miles? I just need a link for a bad *** rebuild kit mainly with synchros, rings bad *** non china made bearings. some one shoot me a link with a kit I need please. someone that's done this already and knows what needs to be replaced without me ordering a bunch of extra parts I wont need. thank you guys..
$845.24 NOPI Price
V2-Series Quick Rev Clutch Kit with Flywheel (Sprung hub with 6 puck disc)
5.7L - LS1
Torque Capacity (lb-ft. estimated): 850 - Disc Diminsions: 11" x 26 x 1-1/8" - includes #198571 - 12.75 lbs Aluminum Flywheel - for Replacement Friction Plate, use #221171
Fidanza Qwik-Rev combos shift performance into high gear! These perfectly matched combos pair Fidanza premium 6061 T6 aluminum flywheels and their great performing V-Series clutches for lightweight strength that delivers! Faster acceleration, quicker throttle response, and increased clutch efficiency are some of the speedy results you'll experience. These durable combos are available with a V1 solid organic clutch disc for your high-performance street machine, or with their V2 6-puck ceramic clutch disc for your higher horsepower/torque and race applications. Fidanza engineers have done their homework to develop a dynamic duo that gets additional horsepower to your wheels and adds more excitement to your driving. Qwik-Rev clutch and flywheel combos offer a shift in performance! Made in the USA.
#35
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okay from what you guys have said im seeing with my own eyes.. im lookin for a stage 2 myself, just ordered a new fidanza clutch kit with a aluminum flywheel for my 98 vette... well I know I need new synchros no doubt. and with the sliders I myself thought the plastic ones would be a faster shift but any who. I wanna build my tranny to where I don't have to worry about anything goin wrong ya know. soo really I don't know if u usually need to replace the gears on a stock vette with 90k miles? I just need a link for a bad *** rebuild kit mainly with synchros, rings bad *** non china made bearings. some one shoot me a link with a kit I need please. someone that's done this already and knows what needs to be replaced without me ordering a bunch of extra parts I wont need. thank you guys..
$845.24 NOPI Price
V2-Series Quick Rev Clutch Kit with Flywheel (Sprung hub with 6 puck disc)
5.7L - LS1
Torque Capacity (lb-ft. estimated): 850 - Disc Diminsions: 11" x 26 x 1-1/8" - includes #198571 - 12.75 lbs Aluminum Flywheel - for Replacement Friction Plate, use #221171
Fidanza Qwik-Rev combos shift performance into high gear! These perfectly matched combos pair Fidanza premium 6061 T6 aluminum flywheels and their great performing V-Series clutches for lightweight strength that delivers! Faster acceleration, quicker throttle response, and increased clutch efficiency are some of the speedy results you'll experience. These durable combos are available with a V1 solid organic clutch disc for your high-performance street machine, or with their V2 6-puck ceramic clutch disc for your higher horsepower/torque and race applications. Fidanza engineers have done their homework to develop a dynamic duo that gets additional horsepower to your wheels and adds more excitement to your driving. Qwik-Rev clutch and flywheel combos offer a shift in performance! Made in the USA.
V2-Series Quick Rev Clutch Kit with Flywheel (Sprung hub with 6 puck disc)
5.7L - LS1
Torque Capacity (lb-ft. estimated): 850 - Disc Diminsions: 11" x 26 x 1-1/8" - includes #198571 - 12.75 lbs Aluminum Flywheel - for Replacement Friction Plate, use #221171
Fidanza Qwik-Rev combos shift performance into high gear! These perfectly matched combos pair Fidanza premium 6061 T6 aluminum flywheels and their great performing V-Series clutches for lightweight strength that delivers! Faster acceleration, quicker throttle response, and increased clutch efficiency are some of the speedy results you'll experience. These durable combos are available with a V1 solid organic clutch disc for your high-performance street machine, or with their V2 6-puck ceramic clutch disc for your higher horsepower/torque and race applications. Fidanza engineers have done their homework to develop a dynamic duo that gets additional horsepower to your wheels and adds more excitement to your driving. Qwik-Rev clutch and flywheel combos offer a shift in performance! Made in the USA.