tick mc owners, anyone have the instructions?
#1
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tick mc owners, anyone have the instructions?
I am just trying to find some of the instructions from tick, I have read a few of the peoples write ups on here and tried searching but didnt find any. I am just trying to prepair myself as to I want to install one soon. thanks for the help.
#2
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I know when you have a stock C/M there is a Star washer ( i think they call that) which is a PITA to remove, you definitly need 2 people, best to remove the seat in the car to give you a place to lie down. And your going to be fiddle farting trying to get the C/M into the hole from the engine bay.
NOT a horrible job but for ANY reason if my C/M broke, I would be tossing in a 4L80e....
NOT a horrible job but for ANY reason if my C/M broke, I would be tossing in a 4L80e....
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It's really not that difficult of a job, but I have long skinny arms.
2 people does make it much easier, b/c one can hold the mc in place and the other can put the nuts on the u-bolt.
Other than that there isn't much to it. The "star washer" as referred to by the previous poster isn't that difficult to remove either. It isn't necessary to replace, so just take a flat head screwdriver and break it off.
2 people does make it much easier, b/c one can hold the mc in place and the other can put the nuts on the u-bolt.
Other than that there isn't much to it. The "star washer" as referred to by the previous poster isn't that difficult to remove either. It isn't necessary to replace, so just take a flat head screwdriver and break it off.
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#11
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lol...it's a pain in the ***. Did you get the big pack of wires loosened up and moved out of the way a little? There is basically only one position that thing will fit in and you will find the sweet spot eventually. It seems like every job I do on my car either I can't see or feel what I'm working on or can't get in the right position to get the job done without wanting to kill myself or someone else. But I always seem to find a way.
#15
You can also loosen the slave line to help slide the master in. Start with the rod as short as possible. From there start the bleeding process. We had to adjust the rod out some to get full engagement. We had all the air out in about 7 minutes with the speed bleeder. 5 pumps and hold method. Once we felt we had all the air, we kept bleeding for re-assurance. With the car up, we ran it through all of the gears to check engagement. Then we took it out for 150 break in miles. Still in the process of breaking everything in, but very simple install.
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My tick master is in and I think I got it right but have a question. My clutch grabs up towards the top, and I would like it to grab right off the floor. When I shorten the rod so that it grabs off the floor the car wont shift at high rpms. Do I just need to live with where it engages ?
#17
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I bled my hydraulic system today. It "seems" I have all the air out of it. I had to adjust the rod longer to get a decent stroke on it to move enough fluid to bleed it. I will shorten it before I start driving it to readjust it.
When you shorten the rod there is a clutch switch, there are two, that is on the top and is light tan in color with a black plunger. On the bottom there is a square black switch.
The top tan colored switch does not contact the clutch pedal because its adjusted so short. I know I can move that switch closer to the pedal some but I don't think it will make contact. What is that switch do? I am going to assume its for the cruise control. When you push the clutch down it disengages it.
When you shorten the rod there is a clutch switch, there are two, that is on the top and is light tan in color with a black plunger. On the bottom there is a square black switch.
The top tan colored switch does not contact the clutch pedal because its adjusted so short. I know I can move that switch closer to the pedal some but I don't think it will make contact. What is that switch do? I am going to assume its for the cruise control. When you push the clutch down it disengages it.