LS7 Clutch&Flywheel-Expected Changes?
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I'm for some reason liking this better. I really don't want to screw around with the car too much and it wont be drag raced, etc. I think it would be a better choice, is the flywheel and everything else in this clutch the same weight as the 98-00 clutch or is it a significant difference?
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when i first put the ls7 clutch in my car a couple weeks ago...the clutch pedal was barely off the floor and i was worried and now after 300-some miles the clutch pedal is near normal....great clutch i love it!!!! highly recommended!!!!
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I have the LS7 clutch in my 99SS new pilot tick master new slave. Love the clutch better than stock feel better than stock bite just better all around and for the price can't be beat for a mild combo. However I did need a shim behind the slave. You need to measure the clearance with ANY clutch. The reason I needed a shim is cause my new slave was about 3/16" shorter than the one I replaced. The tick master might have taken care of the problem but why chance having to pull the trans again.
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I have the LS7 clutch in my 99SS new pilot tick master new slave. Love the clutch better than stock feel better than stock bite just better all around and for the price can't be beat for a mild combo. However I did need a shim behind the slave. You need to measure the clearance with ANY clutch. The reason I needed a shim is cause my new slave was about 3/16" shorter than the one I replaced. The tick master might have taken care of the problem but why chance having to pull the trans again.
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The one i bought was a 01-02 GM slave. The problem is that all the components Flywheel,slave Etc. can have varying lengths that will give you diff distance from the pressure plate to the face of the throwout bearing. you need to measure this distance with all new clutch installs with or without a new slave. Most of the time it's ok but if not it will cause problems. it's easy to do once you have the trans out. there is a great write up on here by Gen114 (i think). look for it in the stickys.
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Ordered everything for my car yesterday...car has ALMOST 200K on the original 2000 clutch (195,800 right now)...it will make 200K before I have to change it, and I plan to do that just to say I did it...but it's showing it's age finally (2 weeks ago the pedal stuck to the floor for the first time EVER, and it's done it twice since)...it's still driving fine, but the throwout bearing has a bit of a squeak to it, and once in a while it spins (the clutch instead of the tires) if I smash second real hard too...so I ordered all new hydraulics (new stock master, new 2001/2002 slave with throwout bearing, which I think is the only one you can get from GM now anyways, new pilot bearing, new LS7 flywheel, and new LS7 clutch disk and PP).
Has anyone bothered to have a shop check the balance of the clutch/flywheel assembly? I'm thinking that if it's coming from GM and intended for a C6 ZO6...it's gotta be well within their acceptable tolerance anyways, but if someone says a reputable shop that knows what they're doing with a balancer said it was out, and corrected it...then I'd like to know.
Has anyone bothered to have a shop check the balance of the clutch/flywheel assembly? I'm thinking that if it's coming from GM and intended for a C6 ZO6...it's gotta be well within their acceptable tolerance anyways, but if someone says a reputable shop that knows what they're doing with a balancer said it was out, and corrected it...then I'd like to know.
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The one i bought was a 01-02 GM slave. The problem is that all the components Flywheel,slave Etc. can have varying lengths that will give you diff distance from the pressure plate to the face of the throwout bearing. you need to measure this distance with all new clutch installs with or without a new slave. Most of the time it's ok but if not it will cause problems. it's easy to do once you have the trans out. there is a great write up on here by Gen114 (i think). look for it in the stickys.
I'd be willing to bet 9 times out of 10, when a freshly installed clutch is grabbing close to the floor, it's air in the hydraulics that is eventually working it's way back up to the reservoir (and thus making the engagement point come up higher off the floor)...air is the ONLY reason the clutch won't equalize and grab at the normal pedal height...because as you first step on the pedal, it has to compress before any hydraulic pressure can build.
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