Question...
Question... I am starting to think about beefing up my tranny when i do a clutch/flywheel swap.
question is...what would be the best options to do this?
(Car is in Sig)
question is...what would be the best options to do this?
(Car is in Sig)
Google is your friend:
site:www.ls1tech.com "manual-transmission" T56 upgrades fork billet
Your '07 CTSv will already have the steel fork, solid 1-2 keys, and triple/double cone synchros. Put in billet 3-4, 5-6, (rev?) synchro keys and a full set of bronze pads, and you should be good to go.. The synchros and friction cones should be checked/replaced as needed, as wear items..
site:www.ls1tech.com "manual-transmission" T56 upgrades fork billet
Your '07 CTSv will already have the steel fork, solid 1-2 keys, and triple/double cone synchros. Put in billet 3-4, 5-6, (rev?) synchro keys and a full set of bronze pads, and you should be good to go.. The synchros and friction cones should be checked/replaced as needed, as wear items..
^ Agreed, your trans is def better off then what was offered stock in 4th gen Fbodies. If you want piece of mind, send it to a qualified trans guy w/ good exp with heavy M6 cars or t-56's specifically.
As for clutch kit, I always ran Textraila OZ700's Phenominal clutches!
As for clutch kit, I always ran Textraila OZ700's Phenominal clutches!
I don't know if its just us or not but we see a lot of cracked 3rd gear outer syncro rings when installing the billet shift keys in the Corvette/GTO/V units. I've gotten away from suggesting them on those units.
Are the double cone synchros in stock units even experiencing key problems?
However, you could go thru it and put in the billet 3-4 keys and freshen up the trans with new friction rings, and small parts. Where in West TX are you?
a lot of what was said is my line of thinking. the main thing i am going for is better durability when i really get deep into the mod process. car only has bolt-ons right now. but i am think about getting a S/C system, and i want to tranny to last with the extra power.
the clutch system i will be going with is the Monster Stage 3 with 18lbs fly wheel. my dual mass that weighs in the neighborhood of 45lbs is starting to **** me off.
i live in abilene, but i grew up in fort worth. lived in benbrook for my younger years and off LVT while i was in high school. i am always in DFW visiting old friends and family.
the clutch system i will be going with is the Monster Stage 3 with 18lbs fly wheel. my dual mass that weighs in the neighborhood of 45lbs is starting to **** me off.
i live in abilene, but i grew up in fort worth. lived in benbrook for my younger years and off LVT while i was in high school. i am always in DFW visiting old friends and family.
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Yes on the regular style syncro ring, the billet keys work great. On the style with the really thin 3rd gear outter ring, I have seen several come back with cracked rings in very short time after installing billet keys. They always crack in the corner of the notched out section of the ring.
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Verdad Gallardo Yes on the regular style syncro ring, the billet keys work great. On the style with the really thin 3rd gear outter ring, I have seen several come back with cracked rings in very short time after installing billet keys. They always crack in the corner of the notched out section of the ring.
I seen as just as many cracked 3rd gear outer rings on these late model units with stock keys.. I think it's more a result of the thinner ring and driving style, than the keys.. (The statistical theory being that drivers that would have billet keys installed, would be doing more aggressive shifting than the population whole)
So would you suggest stamped keys in the 3-4 syncro? I cant seem to keep third and forth together in my car. I think this is the 2nd or 3rd time I have had to work on 3rd gear in the 3-4 years I've owned the car.
I do with my customer now days. I contacted a few places about having an aftermarket outter ring done but the cost was just too high to justify doing them.
When I have the trans out this go round I guess I will have the billet 3-4 keys removed. I dont really miss shifts but the remote shifter does leave a lot to be desired, even with aftermarket short throw. I think a large part of my syncro problem has been faulty pressure plates in the past. Above 5k the clutch would try to lock me out and shifting hard with a partially engaged clutch would cause a lot of wear and tear on the syncros. Now I have an Exedy twin disk that absolutely shifts like butter no matter what the RPM is, I just need to get the trans fixed now lol
Ok sorry Cole, thread jack over.
Ok sorry Cole, thread jack over.
When I have the trans out this go round I guess I will have the billet 3-4 keys removed. I dont really miss shifts but the remote shifter does leave a lot to be desired, even with aftermarket short throw. I think a large part of my syncro problem has been faulty pressure plates in the past. Above 5k the clutch would try to lock me out and shifting hard with a partially engaged clutch would cause a lot of wear and tear on the syncros. Now I have an Exedy twin disk that absolutely shifts like butter no matter what the RPM is, I just need to get the trans fixed now lol
Ok sorry Cole, thread jack over.
Ok sorry Cole, thread jack over.
You might want to try a set of billet keys from another vendor.. I personally haven't had any issues with the late model units I've put billet keys in.
I have not seen that happen yet, but it does seem to make some sense. I noticed that the billet keys are slightly longer than the stock ones. Maybe there is less clearance with the triple cone rings, and with the longer key, it cracks. It may come down to who machined them, as I've seen 2-3 different styles. That's why I'm drawing up my own billet keys in CAD and having them made.
So who's keys do you guys trust? I like the extra security of the billet keys and honestly, they may not even be my problem, but I'd like to reduce the risk of damage again. Also, she has about 91k pretty hard miles so I'm thinking it's about time to go all the way with new bearings, seals, blocker rings. It needs a good freshen up. The last few times I pretty much just fixed what broke.
So who's keys do you guys trust? I like the extra security of the billet keys and honestly, they may not even be my problem, but I'd like to reduce the risk of damage again. Also, she has about 91k pretty hard miles so I'm thinking it's about time to go all the way with new bearings, seals, blocker rings. It needs a good freshen up. The last few times I pretty much just fixed what broke.
TheSource: I've never seen the black keys, but that is interesting