Does not want to go into reverse
10-14-2010, 09:18 AM
#1
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Does not want to go into reverse Guys,
Just put an LS7 clutch kit in my 99 WS6. At the same time we installed the "Factory Hurst" shifter to replace the factory shifter. Now the car has trouble going into reverse. All the other gears are great, but it just doesn't like reverse. It does not make any noise while going in, but you have to push in on the clutch a few times among other things to make it go. We bled the clutch hydraulic system, too. Any ideas? Master cylinder?
Just put an LS7 clutch kit in my 99 WS6. At the same time we installed the "Factory Hurst" shifter to replace the factory shifter. Now the car has trouble going into reverse. All the other gears are great, but it just doesn't like reverse. It does not make any noise while going in, but you have to push in on the clutch a few times among other things to make it go. We bled the clutch hydraulic system, too. Any ideas? Master cylinder?
10-14-2010, 10:00 PM
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Usually, if you have issues going into Reverse and/or First, then you are having clutch disengagement issues. Most people do not realize the LS7 clutch is designed to work with the LS7 slave. This slave is a different height (about 3/4in taller), so when using with an LS1/LS6 slave, you will need to shim it for the proper amount of throw. This will put it closer to the pressure plate, so it will then press the clutch fingers in far enough for proper disengagement. This is why I recommend NOT going with the LS7 setup. Not to mention that the pressure plate on this clutch is very finicky. If it was dropped during shipping, it will throw the self-adjusters out of whack. This will also cause disengagement issues.
10-15-2010, 12:24 AM
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Reverse will be the first gear you have trouble getting into when you have a hydraulic issue. You may have air in your system. I'd recommend bleeding the system first before having to take the tranny back out.
If you are still having issued after a good bleed, then measure for a shim. I know there is a good guide somewhere on this site for measuring.
Keep in mind that being a 99, your car didnt come with the best master and slave. Alot of LS1 owners will swap to an '02 master and slave when they do stock clutch swaps.
If you are still having issued after a good bleed, then measure for a shim. I know there is a good guide somewhere on this site for measuring.
Keep in mind that being a 99, your car didnt come with the best master and slave. Alot of LS1 owners will swap to an '02 master and slave when they do stock clutch swaps.
10-20-2010, 09:33 PM
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Thanks ace3166 - I will try putting it in 6th gear prior to using reverse. I forgot to mention in my original post that we did update the slave cylinder when installing the LS7 clutch. Also, after driving it for a hundred or so miles, it was bled again. So I do have the updated slave cylinder and it has been bled a couple times. I will search this site on how to shim it if putting it in 6th gear then reverse doesn't work. Monkey_fuerte a factory master cylinder from an 02' would be ok for my application? What is different about the 02' vs my 99'? Thanks for all the input everyone.
10-21-2010, 06:55 PM
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The '02 Stock MCs and slaves were better built. If you're going to go through all the trouble of bleeding our hydraulics, why not spend a little more money on a more reliable stock master.
10-21-2010, 07:01 PM
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Sounds good to me. Maybe I should try one of those Tick Performance ones. You know anything about those?
Last edited by Tyler Wilson; 10-22-2010 at 04:42 PM.
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10-23-2010, 07:06 PM
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Yes, the Tick Master is currently the best and definitely worth the 300 bucks.
Also, look up a few replies and see what I posted. I've run into this problem a lot. A .160" shim should put u right where u need to be. I've got one for $12 shipped. Call if you want it.
Also, look up a few replies and see what I posted. I've run into this problem a lot. A .160" shim should put u right where u need to be. I've got one for $12 shipped. Call if you want it.
10-24-2010, 09:05 AM
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TDP, I will keep that shim in mind. thanks.
99FormulaM6, it goes over to the actual reverse gear, but it does not want to engage up into the gear. I just keep trying to ram it up into reverse while pushing in on the clutch. Eventually it does engage.
99FormulaM6, it goes over to the actual reverse gear, but it does not want to engage up into the gear. I just keep trying to ram it up into reverse while pushing in on the clutch. Eventually it does engage.
10-25-2010, 12:02 AM
#14
It may be the wave washer between reverse gear and the brass blocker. What happens is the center of the wave washer gets worn egg shaped and allows the washer to drop down and block the space between the teeth on the blocker and the teeth on the gear. When you try to engage reverse, the slider teeth cant engage the gear because the slider hits the washer and is blocked from engaging the gear but letting out the clutch a bit spins the gear a bit and that coupled with the pressure of pushing the shifter against the gear helps push the wave washer out of the way..... mine would always grind a smidge when doing this. Only reverse has this washer. I believe its to help push the brass blocker off the reverse gear. I was told that many shops rebuild without it but I think I replaced mine if I remember right.
11-11-2010, 07:42 AM
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Guys,
Just put an LS7 clutch kit in my 99 WS6. At the same time we installed the "Factory Hurst" shifter to replace the factory shifter. Now the car has trouble going into reverse. All the other gears are great, but it just doesn't like reverse. It does not make any noise while going in, but you have to push in on the clutch a few times among other things to make it go. We bled the clutch hydraulic system, too. Any ideas? Master cylinder?
Just put an LS7 clutch kit in my 99 WS6. At the same time we installed the "Factory Hurst" shifter to replace the factory shifter. Now the car has trouble going into reverse. All the other gears are great, but it just doesn't like reverse. It does not make any noise while going in, but you have to push in on the clutch a few times among other things to make it go. We bled the clutch hydraulic system, too. Any ideas? Master cylinder?
The clutch pedal has very little travel meaning that you only have to release your foot off of the clutch a couple inches from the floorboard to start the car moving forward.
Any other suggestions?
Thanks Guys
