Was cruisin and did a nice hard 1st, 2nd, then shifted into third. Let off the throttle and coasted slowing down coming up to a stop sign. I went to down shift and there was no pedal at all. I can move the pedal up and down with hand but no resistance nor clutch action. I checked fluid which I do regulary and fluid reservoir was empty. Clutch has been fine and is about 5k miles new, no clutch smell or smell period coming from vehicle. I didnt see any signs of fluid leak around master, have yet had a chance to jack vehicle up and look for fluid around tranny from slave.. My guess is slave but figured I'd see fluid on ground from pushing past the piston in slave.. Or you think I blew a seal in the Master or leaking internally, but wheres the fluid going?

 

probably popped the slave. i have also seen the throwout bearing grenade which overextended the slave as well.

 

Thanks Ryan, I was hoping to get by without dropping the trans. Call for a weekend on the back working by myself. Sucks. Ill see if I can see through access hole and look for the throwout inplace and check for the overextension. I still figured normally when slaves pop I thought they usually leak fluid and I would see it on floor or bottom of trans. I could be wrong oh well car has gone about 8k miles with not an issue. Something was bound to happen

 

every time ive had a slave let go it has leaked out of the seam by the bellhousing. may wanna check that the master hasnt developed a leak by the firewall before you pull the trans

good luck man

 

I filled reservoir and gave her a few pumps after lifting vehicle. vluid definately coming out of front of bell housing. Can I split the trans before the bell housing that way I dont have to booger with the top bolts on the housing they were a B last time?? Anyone done this before or do I have to remove the whole thing.

 

yeah just pull the trans, not the bellhousing

 

well replaced slave got tranny up. There was alot of fluid in bellhousing. And also when I removed Slave a bunch of dot 3 fluid came out from behind. Now Im trying to bleed but still getting no pedal. No better then before. Any ideas think Master is gone? Slave was intact just leaking

 

might have to bench bleed the master without it being attached to the slave first. if all the fluid ran out of the master it wont bleed with it connected

 

well I did the mity vac trick, and got a pedal felt like the old pedal. My clutch before this issue grabbed almost at top of pedal so I dont know if thats a sign I need a adjustable master. I cranked car and went to move and with clutch all the way out vehicle barely and I mean barely starts to move. And with clutch all the way completly out vehicle seems that like clutch is slipping or barely grabbing. We are talking 1-2 mph here. Not sure if I need to bleed more as pedal feels good. Or is there clutch issues, slipping, breaking etc. This did happen immediately during a hard couple shifts, and almost felt like clutch slipped when this issue happenned and then bam gone. Old slave was not shimmed. But shimming would bring TO closer anyways, I need the TO further away. I dont smell any clutch. Not sure here.

 

The leak likely contaminated the clutch disc. This would cause slippage as a result of the reduction of the discs friction coefficient. Pull the clutch and I am sure you will find evidence of this. Let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks,

 

Going to pull clutch tonight. When pulling trans to replace slave there was some fluid in bottom of bellhousing. I did notice the clutch but didnt see any fluid on or around it. Either way will drop tonight. Been thinking about upgrading clutch even more. Currently Spec 3. So not a big deal to remove again. Just wondering if I should replace Master also. But I guess master is working if I got a pedal, and no leaks. But then again this is my 3rd clutch since ownership, never have replaced master and all 3 clutches grabbed almost at top of pedal. Dont know if this is normal or not. Thanks SPEC-01 I am starting to narrow this down and believe you might be right. So weird clutch was fine. Now slips like its not there.

 

When you get hydraulic fluid on the clutch it affects its ability to hold. This will cause it to slip like crazy. If the disc is in good shape, relative to thickness, then it could be cleaned up and re-used. Check the thickness of the disc with a micrometer and let me know the measurement. Then we can determine the amount of wear present. Thanks!

 

Finally found time to drop the clutch. Here is what I found. Not sure though you guys be the judge. I put this on about 6k miles ago, car has never seem the track or a single drag launch. Been driving it to work and back and really only do alot of interstate runs not alot of stop and go for me. Been running on 8psi to save gas till I grab another ride. Any help would be appreciated as I'm looking to order replacement parts soon. Will have measured specs tommorrow got to grab another set of calipers my digital one is dead.

Thanks


Heres the Flywheel


Flywheel Side of Disc


Up Close of Flywheel side of Disc


Pressure Plate


Pressure Plate side of Disc


Pressure Plate side of Disc Upclose

 

ttt anyone?

 

forgive me if this is a dumb question but isn't the pilot bearing missing.? i think you slave is leaking on to and glazing on your clutch assembly. just my .02

 

well I didn't install clutch first time around and have had no vibrations in vehicle. I will have to check when I'm back to the car tonight but from the pics looks like pilot is gone could be pics though will verify. I know the pilot can cause premature clutch wear. but you think there is anyways for it to come apart. or are you thinking shop that installed originally forgot. clutch has been fine since install other then grabbing higher up in pedal. I will grab another pilot today wondering if this will fix it or if clutch is shot. just still hesitant to go back with same clutch looks like flywheel and pressure ate are scratched up like the bearing might have come apart and got caught in between clutch.

anymore help or responses would be appreciated

 

this is what a bearing looks like.

this is a pic i took B4 i installed it. get your bearing from the GM dealership bc from my personal experience, autozone, napa, advance auto parts didn't carry them in stock. there are two different bearings that fit into the crack (big and small) you want the small one. test fit the bearing onto the tranny input shaff b4 installing. this will ensure you bought the right bearing.

but i would deff buy all new clutch assembly and flywheel, as well as a new T.O. bearing and slave.

 

I'd have the input shaft bearing checked as well as input shaft run out. Without the support of the pilot bearing, that puts a lot of stress on the shaft and bearing.

 

I agree with all and am looking at new clutches.

now for the big question??? For 550 daily, and 750 at the switch. What you recommend

In a Monster what lvl?
In a Spec what lvl?

 

not to change the subject but i would prob go have a nice little talk with the shop that installed your clutch. If they left the pilot bearing out.

anyways, as for the clutch do some searches. everybody and there mother says something different. everyone on here says Spec sucks but when you look in the magazines ( GMHTP ) everybody runs them. lol just search around