Tick Master Cylinder bad for daily driving??
#21
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Basically your mechanic has told you that he doesn't think you can drive a manual and cannot adapt to change, or he can't drive a stick properly. If having a "low engagement" point is hard to DD, then there are MANY cars from other manufacturers that are bad DD's stock. It's nothing more than getting used to a new engagement point, It's not like going from a stock organic clutch disk, to a semi metallic puck style disk.
I am glad I am not one of those people that blindly follows the masses without thinking. So in essence I am thinking, and thats to the guy that's telling me to "THINK" in one of the above posts.
In know way am I knocking the TICK set up, it is probably an awesome unit, I just wanted some feedback and to see if there is anything that anyone may have been missing. And what if I did have a bad knee? I'm sure the pedal engagement being so low to the floor with the pedal being stiffer will have an impact on folks with a bad knee.
#22
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Ok. I got a bad knee thats why i'm second guessing it now. I kinda need somthing with a stock feel or it just starts aching big time. I have a monster stage 2 on the way if it ever gets shipped and I choose that because it was supposed to be easy pedal pressure . I guess I'll try it . Just hate to have to pull it out if its no good for me.
As said before it's really a non issue. All it does is make the very light clutch feel of a stock f-body more like a regular clutch feel of just about every manufacturer's manual cars. If you've never driven another stick car, I can see where you wouldn't know.
He may be looking out for you, but he may be also looking out for himself. I'm sure he'll be charging you for the labor to do the drill mod to the car, plus installation. Otherwise, he'd just be charging for the installation of a new unit. Just something to think about.
Edit: last two paragraphs were directed at OP, not droptop
Last edited by black00ssFL; 10-21-2010 at 01:04 PM.
#23
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#24
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i have the tick master and stg 2 monster with alum 18 lbs flywheel i didnt notice any pedal loss at all but the pedal is a little bit stiffer than stock and mine shifts better at high rpms than low lol, i think i may need to adjust mine but its better than not being able to bang the gears at all !!!!
#25
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I hate I haven't seen this thread until now. Hopefully I can clarify for those of you who don't already have our kit (and thank you to those posters in this thread that do!):
Our Kit does away with the "BS Travel" in your pedal. The cheesy factory master leaves a ton of free play and extra travel in your pedal that is unnecessary. When you install our kit, you'll enjoy a shorter pedal and a slightly more firm pedal. This results in a quicker shift and a setup that is actually EASIER to drive with than the factory master once you get used to it, which should take ~3 stoplights.
Multiple customers have emailed & called to thank us for the product and to let us know that our kit has been their favorite modification thusfar. Those of you on the fence about our stuff, we encourage you to give it a try - we're LSx Enthusiasts that developed these kits because we wanted to shift these cars as they ought to be shifted. You WON'T be disappointed.
Our Kit does away with the "BS Travel" in your pedal. The cheesy factory master leaves a ton of free play and extra travel in your pedal that is unnecessary. When you install our kit, you'll enjoy a shorter pedal and a slightly more firm pedal. This results in a quicker shift and a setup that is actually EASIER to drive with than the factory master once you get used to it, which should take ~3 stoplights.
Multiple customers have emailed & called to thank us for the product and to let us know that our kit has been their favorite modification thusfar. Those of you on the fence about our stuff, we encourage you to give it a try - we're LSx Enthusiasts that developed these kits because we wanted to shift these cars as they ought to be shifted. You WON'T be disappointed.
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#26
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Damit Joey, lol, I just spent over 2k on Konis, Tires, and brakes...LOL
Then here I am, perusing through posts on the Tick unit, and I came across something I had posted a while back.
I am still getting locked out of 3rd gear at times and I hate it. That's what drove me here again. I will not be able to swing the 300 bucks after dumping everything into tires/shocks and brakes.
Will you have that sale after tax season again for $299 with free shipping???
PM me
Thanks,
Jason
Then here I am, perusing through posts on the Tick unit, and I came across something I had posted a while back.
I am still getting locked out of 3rd gear at times and I hate it. That's what drove me here again. I will not be able to swing the 300 bucks after dumping everything into tires/shocks and brakes.
Will you have that sale after tax season again for $299 with free shipping???
PM me
Thanks,
Jason
#27
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can you still adjust the pedal to have the engagement high. I like to set mine up there so I dont have to push the clutch down all the way at the track.
what did you have before? Ive been happy with the stock modded master, but is this that much better?
Get the tick, Ive had mine in my car for about 8,000 miles, numerous, I mean just about everytime I drive it, I shifted at the shift light, 6500, goes into gear every time. Its so much better to drive, you can just drive it, dont have to worry about every going into gear. Best mod to date for a 6 speed. You will wish you got it sooner.
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I went from my stock master which wouldnt fully disengage the clutch and kept grinding in reverse and first to the tick, its like night and day. You wont be dissappointed, maybe even run faster times
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#30
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I tried a car with the Tick unit installed on Friday night and to be honest...I didn't really like it. It just seemed like the clutch pedal seemed way too low for daily driving. It was also very sensitive and would stall out when I was playing with going in reverse and letting the clutch move the car in first. Keep in mind I've been driving manual trans. cars for the past 7 years, so I'm not a newb when it comes to slipping the clutch. The car had an LS7 with a cam in it but I don't think that would have anything to do with the engagement of the clutch.
For racing the Tick might be a perfect thing, but for a daily driver in light to light traffic I just don't see how I could get use to it. I guess I would have to, but I wasn't impressed by the streetable manners for a daily driver. I'm still torn on getting one, I just thought it would have been a little easier based on the overwhelmingly positive feedback for daily driving.
For racing the Tick might be a perfect thing, but for a daily driver in light to light traffic I just don't see how I could get use to it. I guess I would have to, but I wasn't impressed by the streetable manners for a daily driver. I'm still torn on getting one, I just thought it would have been a little easier based on the overwhelmingly positive feedback for daily driving.
Last edited by jthunderz28; 02-13-2011 at 12:15 PM.
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#32
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Oh and I remember offering you and your wife 15k for that black ws6, lol. But she wanted no less than 20k so I had to pass.
I ended up tracking down a 1 owner silver WS6 all the way up in Oroville,CA.
It wasn't black like I wanted, but it was a bone stock, m6, car in immaculate shape. I ended up getting it for 13k last June. The silver has definitely grown on me especially after the CETA mod.
You're in Turlock, are you on Nor Cal LS1 at all??? We do cruises from time to time, you guys should come out and play with us in the twisties if we get a gtg going in the near future.
#33
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I tried a car with the Tick unit installed on Friday night and to be honest...I didn't really like it. It just seemed like the clutch pedal seemed way too low for daily driving. It was also very sensitive and would stall out when I was playing with going in reverse and letting the clutch move the car in first. Keep in mind I've been driving manual trans. cars for the past 7 years, so I'm not a newb when it comes to slipping the clutch. The car had an LS7 with a cam in it but I don't think that would have anything to do with the engagement of the clutch.
For racing the Tick might be a perfect thing, but for a daily driver in light to light traffic I just don't see how I could get use to it. I guess I would have to, but I wasn't impressed by the streetable manners for a daily driver. I'm still torn on getting one, I just thought it would have been a little easier based on the overwhelmingly positive feedback for daily driving.
For racing the Tick might be a perfect thing, but for a daily driver in light to light traffic I just don't see how I could get use to it. I guess I would have to, but I wasn't impressed by the streetable manners for a daily driver. I'm still torn on getting one, I just thought it would have been a little easier based on the overwhelmingly positive feedback for daily driving.
Sounds like it just needed to be adjusted. I had mine set to engage about half way up. The clutch can have an effect on that too, it's not just the master cylinder.
#35
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old thread, but seems good place to ask.
wife is short stuff, about 4'11, will short ppl be able to reach the clutch pedal, if the Tick takes out all the slop & moves the engagement closer to the floor?
will she have to tippy toe the clutch pedal at stop lights?
just kinda wondering out loud.
the OEM clutch is still in our 2000 M6 at ~60k miles, and you can slip the clutch if you TRY pretty hard, but not normally
and every so often, the clutch pedal won't come back up.
do I need to change out:
-the clutch (slipping is not a big deal, it is a GQ now)? (LS7 kit on Tick's site $500?)
-the slave cylinder when I do the clutch? ($150?)
-just the Tick Master master cylinder (fixes the dead pedal, and possibly clamps the clutch harder, so it may not slip either) ($300 and done!)
that Tick Master Cylinder seems like the best bet, and to do it, allows for future growth, and then I can swap the clutch/slave cylinder later if I want it to NEVER slip?
thanks guy, sorry for the old thread bump, but seems to fit in
wife is short stuff, about 4'11, will short ppl be able to reach the clutch pedal, if the Tick takes out all the slop & moves the engagement closer to the floor?
will she have to tippy toe the clutch pedal at stop lights?
just kinda wondering out loud.
the OEM clutch is still in our 2000 M6 at ~60k miles, and you can slip the clutch if you TRY pretty hard, but not normally
and every so often, the clutch pedal won't come back up.
do I need to change out:
-the clutch (slipping is not a big deal, it is a GQ now)? (LS7 kit on Tick's site $500?)
-the slave cylinder when I do the clutch? ($150?)
-just the Tick Master master cylinder (fixes the dead pedal, and possibly clamps the clutch harder, so it may not slip either) ($300 and done!)
that Tick Master Cylinder seems like the best bet, and to do it, allows for future growth, and then I can swap the clutch/slave cylinder later if I want it to NEVER slip?
thanks guy, sorry for the old thread bump, but seems to fit in
#36
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I got the tick MC and I'm wondering what the consequences, if any, are when the return spring is left on with this MC. Mine is off as per tick's instructions. But why is it the reason? will something break?
#37
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Just contact them and see if they will sell you one with a stock bore Tilton master installed instead of the one it normally comes with. Worst case the masters are cheap. Somewhere in the $50-80 range IRRC when I replaced it with a stock bore unit. Bolts right up with no modification.
Last edited by landstuhltaylor; 12-17-2020 at 08:44 PM.
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