Tick Master Cylinder bad for daily driving??
#1
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Tick Master Cylinder bad for daily driving??
I've been thinking of buying this setup for the past 2 months. It seems like there is overwhelming positive feedback on the Tick MC set up from all the reviews and stories I have heard. I've never really heard of anyone criticizing it too much.
I have a close to stock 2002 ws6 outside of some boltons.
However I talked to the main mechanic of the shop I've been taking all of my LS1/LT1 cars over the past decade. He told me that the clutch pedal has to be adjusted very close to the ground with the Tick MC unit to prevent too much pressure from being dispersed when you push the clutch down.
He said the problem is that the unit makes the car very sensitive when shifting as far as stop and go traffic and that it would be very hard to deal with especially since it is my daily driver. Now this has been my mechanic for some time and I trust him.
But I was just a little shocked that I've never heard anyone mention this after buying a Tick Master Cylinder set up. I too am fed up with being locked out of third gear.
He told be a solution instead of buying the Tick unit would be to keep the stock unit and to solve the problem he could open up the fluid line at a certain point from 1/16 of an inch to 1/8, this way we could allow more fluid to be moved so shifting would be easier. I guess the fluid line is 1/8 of an inch throughout, but there is a certain point where it is very restrictive on purpose by GM to make the transition of shifting more slower to equal smoother transitions for every day folk who aren't trying to shift very fast.
Does this make sense to anyone? What are your thoughts?
I have a close to stock 2002 ws6 outside of some boltons.
However I talked to the main mechanic of the shop I've been taking all of my LS1/LT1 cars over the past decade. He told me that the clutch pedal has to be adjusted very close to the ground with the Tick MC unit to prevent too much pressure from being dispersed when you push the clutch down.
He said the problem is that the unit makes the car very sensitive when shifting as far as stop and go traffic and that it would be very hard to deal with especially since it is my daily driver. Now this has been my mechanic for some time and I trust him.
But I was just a little shocked that I've never heard anyone mention this after buying a Tick Master Cylinder set up. I too am fed up with being locked out of third gear.
He told be a solution instead of buying the Tick unit would be to keep the stock unit and to solve the problem he could open up the fluid line at a certain point from 1/16 of an inch to 1/8, this way we could allow more fluid to be moved so shifting would be easier. I guess the fluid line is 1/8 of an inch throughout, but there is a certain point where it is very restrictive on purpose by GM to make the transition of shifting more slower to equal smoother transitions for every day folk who aren't trying to shift very fast.
Does this make sense to anyone? What are your thoughts?
#2
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Yes, with the Tick Master your clutch pedal is about 1/2 the engagement it formerly was. That means the clutch itself engages that much quicker. With that being said, it does take some adjusting to get used to, especially in 1st gear. BUT, it is no severe, and after a week or so feels natural again. I daily drive my car in the summer, and wouldn't trade my Tick Master for the world.
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You can adjust it a little bit more off the floor. That is what i had to do, cause i couldnt sit in traffic and hold it on the floor, and have it release like a light switch right off the floor. I havent blown my slave yet, and i've had it for about 3,000 miles. But i still only have probably half the travel of the pedal i used to have. You can look at my pedals and see that the clutch is already way down there.
#5
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And the mod he is talking about is the "drill mod" for the stock unit. Search that on here. It still doesnt solve all of the hydraulic problems, but it might help you out if you dont want to drop the cash on the Tick.
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#9
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I just bought a tick and I'm waiting on my monster clutch to arrive. I'm second guessing it now. I did not know about the stiff pedal and half the travel. My car is a d/d I may see if I can return it and get a new stock master. I don't think I'm going to like loosing half the pedal travel.
#10
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Basically your mechanic has told you that he doesn't think you can drive a manual and cannot adapt to change, or he can't drive a stick properly. If having a "low engagement" point is hard to DD, then there are MANY cars from other manufacturers that are bad DD's stock. It's nothing more than getting used to a new engagement point, It's not like going from a stock organic clutch disk, to a semi metallic puck style disk.
#11
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I just bought a tick and I'm waiting on my monster clutch to arrive. I'm second guessing it now. I did not know about the stiff pedal and half the travel. My car is a d/d I may see if I can return it and get a new stock master. I don't think I'm going to like loosing half the pedal travel.
#12
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being an A4 car that is going through the swap, ive only driven an M6 f-body car one time and the stock hydraulics did have a cable clutch type feel. im putting the tick piece in instead of the stock piece so making a change to a firmer pedal will not be an issue.
My daily driver is a 5spd mitsubishi truck and it has a cable clutch that is very spongy with almost no feedback. I would definatley prefer a firmer pedal. I have left the return spring in the pedal assembly i got, ill decide later whether to take it out or not, but no worries here.
My daily driver is a 5spd mitsubishi truck and it has a cable clutch that is very spongy with almost no feedback. I would definatley prefer a firmer pedal. I have left the return spring in the pedal assembly i got, ill decide later whether to take it out or not, but no worries here.
#13
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Its funny how nobody that bought the unit ever mentioned this in all of the reviews/research I have done.
I guess I will try the drill mod first for now, I'd rather drop the $300 dollars on some nice tires as winter is approaching.
Thanks for all the input though, I'm sure I will get a Tick eventually but the drill mod sounds reasonably.
I guess I will try the drill mod first for now, I'd rather drop the $300 dollars on some nice tires as winter is approaching.
Thanks for all the input though, I'm sure I will get a Tick eventually but the drill mod sounds reasonably.
#14
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This.
Drill mod ain't worth it to me, you'll still get locked out of gear at high RPMs. I spin to 6100 on my stock engine and never get locked out. I'd get locked out at 5500 on the stock crap. And you don't need to do the drill mod if you buy a Tick because it comes with a new, unrestricted hydraulic line.
The pedal is barely any firmer, in my opinion. Clutch engagement seems just as easy as stock to me, and I also have a Spec stage 2. I can still slip the clutch just fine if I want. And my clutch pedal is actually a little higher than stock because of how I adjusted it for high RPM shifting. I didn't even replace my slave (although I should have) and it's fine. Best mod for an M6.
Drill mod ain't worth it to me, you'll still get locked out of gear at high RPMs. I spin to 6100 on my stock engine and never get locked out. I'd get locked out at 5500 on the stock crap. And you don't need to do the drill mod if you buy a Tick because it comes with a new, unrestricted hydraulic line.
The pedal is barely any firmer, in my opinion. Clutch engagement seems just as easy as stock to me, and I also have a Spec stage 2. I can still slip the clutch just fine if I want. And my clutch pedal is actually a little higher than stock because of how I adjusted it for high RPM shifting. I didn't even replace my slave (although I should have) and it's fine. Best mod for an M6.
#15
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the stiffer pedal has to due more the clutch. the tick will just give you a more solid pedal and take away the "spongy-ness." As the for the effort it takes to actually disengage the pedal, that doesnt change if you leave the stock clutch in. with my stock master cylinder, i felt my clutch was heavy as ****, i put the tick in and felt like it 10x's easier to shift. when i put my textralia in, i expect it to be even lighter, this clutchmasters piece is garbage.
#17
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Basically your mechanic has told you that he doesn't think you can drive a manual and cannot adapt to change, or he can't drive a stick properly. If having a "low engagement" point is hard to DD, then there are MANY cars from other manufacturers that are bad DD's stock. It's nothing more than getting used to a new engagement point, It's not like going from a stock organic clutch disk, to a semi metallic puck style disk.
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Get the tick, Ive had mine in my car for about 8,000 miles, numerous, I mean just about everytime I drive it, I shifted at the shift light, 6500, goes into gear every time. Its so much better to drive, you can just drive it, dont have to worry about every going into gear. Best mod to date for a 6 speed. You will wish you got it sooner.
#19
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Ok. I got a bad knee thats why i'm second guessing it now. I kinda need somthing with a stock feel or it just starts aching big time. I have a monster stage 2 on the way if it ever gets shipped and I choose that because it was supposed to be easy pedal pressure . I guess I'll try it . Just hate to have to pull it out if its no good for me.