clutch "FEEL"
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Teching In
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 26
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From: Pittsburgh PA
clutch "FEEL" First a quick background on my car, I bought it within the last two months. The previous owner had the clutch replaced roughly 10,000 miles ago by a GM dealership. Now for my complaint. The clutch in my car has an awkward feel to it. It does not grab until the last couple of inches or so. It makes for a very un-linear feel. I have become accustom to it, but it can be tricky in some situations. I want the clutch to grab sooner and have a linear feel. What can be done to adjust it? Anything?
First a quick background on my car, I bought it within the last two months. The previous owner had the clutch replaced roughly 10,000 miles ago by a GM dealership. Now for my complaint. The clutch in my car has an awkward feel to it. It does not grab until the last couple of inches or so. It makes for a very un-linear feel. I have become accustom to it, but it can be tricky in some situations. I want the clutch to grab sooner and have a linear feel. What can be done to adjust it? Anything?
You could try a tick adjustable master cylinder, but it sounds like your clutch may be on it's last leg. Feel free to call us at 817-750-2000 to discuss some Monster options. Thanks, Chris
Nothing can be done to adjust the disengagement point. It sounds like a hydraulic issue...most likely there's an internal leak within the master cylinder. With the LT1, the best route to go is to purchase a new master/slave cylinder assembly from GM. It's a pre-bled system which comes complete with the master, slave, and line. All you have to do it bolt it in and go. Part number 12559912 and it is about $140 as long as you get it from the right parts guy. I'll PM you a name and phone number to call to get it ordered. The list price is $240 or so, and there's no point in paying that if you don't need to.
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Verdad Gallardo I called you guys routinely and it was always not yet but we are working on it. With the above comment, it sounds less likely you will have one. I finally needed a new clutch and went with Competition Clutch.
That doesn't mean you can't bleed it.
To bleed LT1 hydraulics, you need to remove them from the car, hang the resevoir higher than the master, orient the master so the resevoir line is it's highest point, and then hold the slave lower than everything else.
Once you've done that, push the slave cylinder all the way in with your hand, hold it a moment, let it out, maintain the fluid level in the resevoir, and repeatedly cycle the slave until you see no more bubbles.
That said, it sucks to do that (not easy to push the slave cylinder in by hand), and for what you can get the parts for brand new, pre-bled...it's not worth the time...but you CAN do it if you're so inclined.
To bleed LT1 hydraulics, you need to remove them from the car, hang the resevoir higher than the master, orient the master so the resevoir line is it's highest point, and then hold the slave lower than everything else.
Once you've done that, push the slave cylinder all the way in with your hand, hold it a moment, let it out, maintain the fluid level in the resevoir, and repeatedly cycle the slave until you see no more bubbles.
That said, it sucks to do that (not easy to push the slave cylinder in by hand), and for what you can get the parts for brand new, pre-bled...it's not worth the time...but you CAN do it if you're so inclined.
well my zoom hangs up high... last 3-4 inches b4 the complete top... the clutch is installed perfect...it actually got double checked by tick performance when my t-56 exploded and they installed a new one... its just the way it is....
That doesn't mean you can't bleed it.
To bleed LT1 hydraulics, you need to remove them from the car, hang the resevoir higher than the master, orient the master so the resevoir line is it's highest point, and then hold the slave lower than everything else.
Once you've done that, push the slave cylinder all the way in with your hand, hold it a moment, let it out, maintain the fluid level in the resevoir, and repeatedly cycle the slave until you see no more bubbles.
That said, it sucks to do that (not easy to push the slave cylinder in by hand), and for what you can get the parts for brand new, pre-bled...it's not worth the time...but you CAN do it if you're so inclined.
To bleed LT1 hydraulics, you need to remove them from the car, hang the resevoir higher than the master, orient the master so the resevoir line is it's highest point, and then hold the slave lower than everything else.
Once you've done that, push the slave cylinder all the way in with your hand, hold it a moment, let it out, maintain the fluid level in the resevoir, and repeatedly cycle the slave until you see no more bubbles.
That said, it sucks to do that (not easy to push the slave cylinder in by hand), and for what you can get the parts for brand new, pre-bled...it's not worth the time...but you CAN do it if you're so inclined.
Since it's a sealed system, there's no reason air should ever be in the system, so you should never need to bleed the LT1 hydraulics. The only way you would have to is if you installed a replacement master from the parts store. But why do that if you can get the whole pre-bled kit, like you said.
