CJJones87

iTrader: (3)

Just got my car back and still working out some minor issues. First off, the clutch is about half way as high as the brake pedal is like the instructions say to start adjusting from (it may be even a little lower than halfway - it is LOW). Got everything adjusted as the directions say to where I can get in all the gears with the clutch pressed to the floor (the 3 inches I have to press it). Reverse is kinda tricky, but every other gear shifts just fine. Now to the weird part - If you get on it and give it over 50-75% throttle, the clutch will start slipping. It will shift just fine though (minus the reverse issue), but the pedal is EXTREMELY low and the clutch slips with over 50% throttle. The clutch (LS7) did not slip prior to the Tick master cylinder and new GM slave being added. I will add that the slave was shimmed just to get it to engage/disengage at all. Without the shim, it wouldn't even go into gear.

I've been told that it is a bad pressure plate? Anyone have any experience with this? I will be calling Tick and perhaps Texas Drivetrain Performance to talk about possible pressure plate issues. I know people have used the Tick master cylinder with an LS7 clutch before, so I'm not too sure whats goin on so was going ot ask the experts tomorrow. I just dont get how the pressure plate can be fine one week with the GM master, put the Tick and a new GM slave, and and now it is the culprit supposedly causing it to slip and having my engagement at the very bottom. My clutch pedal is literally maybe 3 inches off the floor, but it doesn't roll forward at all when in gear and the clutch is pressed.

On a more positive note, the tranny does shift awesome with the new Tick master when I'm not getting on it and the clutch slips. Much smoother shifting. Any help from Tick or TDP or anyone for that matter that knows about clutch hydraulics and clutches/pressure plates would be greatly appreciated.

therealcreeper

iTrader: (37)

I'm no expert but I would think that this is most likely your problem. with the shim it's probably extended so far that the clutch is partially disengaged at all times, which causes the slipping. this explains why the clutch pedal travel is so short, because it barely has to move at all to fully disengage (since it's partially disengaged already).

a shim isn't a magic fix for everything. you have to measure to know whether or not you need it. did you install just the tick, and then it still didn't work so you added the shim? or the shim with the stock master and then the tick?

CJJones87

iTrader: (3)

The shim was on the slave before the Tick master even went in and it worked fine - no slipping, normal pedal height etc.... When the Tick was in without the shim, it wouldn't go into gear at all. The shim appears to be what is making the car even drivable.

Build #1

How was the Tick master on without the shim, you stated the shim was already on the vehicle? If you added the shim to make the master slave work, then there is your problem. There is a really good write on here somewhere about measuring for your shims that you need to check out.

disc0monkey

iTrader: (10)

because when you took the shim out the PP started to adjust to compensate. now you put the shim back right? now its all fucked up. you cant add and remove shims on a adjustable PP without resetting it.

CJJones87

iTrader: (3)

The shim was already on the slave prior to the Tick unit going in. When the Tick went in, the clutch pedal was almost at the floor (~3 inches of travel to the bottom maybe). Then we removed the shim to try get the pedal better - this did nothing except normal pedal length but wouldn't go into any gear. Put the shim back on and now the pedal is about 3 inches from the floor but engages/disengages, although reverse is somewhat difficult. There is no problem shifting with the little driving it has done, but it slips at anything over half throttle.

I believe TDP set me straight and explained that the fingers on the LS7 plate had already adjusted to my work with stock master (worn out) and slave (also worn out), and now that the Tick unit is in (bigger bore and more fluid) along with a new slave, the fingers are all out of whack because they were adjusted to the old worn master and slave. So at this stage I think I am out a pressure plate. Thanks for the input guys.

disc0monkey

iTrader: (10)

theres a procedure floating around to reset the PP good luck

CJJones87

iTrader: (3)

Just got off the phone with some people and did some of their ideas. Jonathon from Tick Performance (very helpful) said that I should be able to raise the clutch pedal up higher just for comfortable driving purposes. Well I tried this - Put it almost even with the brake pedal, started it up, and it WOULD NOT go into gear. If I tried to force it in, the car started rolling, so I stopped knowing it wasn't right and didn't want to break a shift fork. Lowered it some more, still no luck - wouldn't go into any gear. Dropped the pedal a little more (still sightly higher than the original 3 inches it was off the floor) and it would go into gear, but very notchy and the car wanted to roll forward while being put in gear. Once it was in gear, it would sit, but going from neutral to 1st, the car rolled for a split second before it clicked into 1st. Knew this also wasn't right, so I just put the pedal back the the original 3 inches from the floor and everything is back to where it used to be. Goes into gear, reverse is still hard but you can get it, and the clutch slips at around 50% throttle.

Guess its time for a new pressure plate and or whole new clutch setup. Sponsors, feel free to shoot me recommendations/specials you may have going on. Motor is a 408ci set up for a HEALTHY shot, so any ideas for the 700+rwhp range would be great. Not worried about streetability- I drive a big cam, and soon to be spooled and narrowed fab9" with rod ended suspension components. So to say the least, my term of streetability is pretty lenient

CJJones87

iTrader: (3)

Been doing some research and I'm basically accepting the worst possible outcome is most likely the one I'm in. I'm thinking I need a new pressure plate, and whats the point of just replacing that when you could do the whole clutch while the tranny is off? Now onto my next question regarding the flywheel: I'm currently looking at the Diamond Clutch Stage 3 and the Monster Level 4 (only because Eastcoast Performance is offering a crazy good deal on Monster clutches - like $200 off the price,otherwise I wouldn't have the $). I see that I can order the Diamond Stage 3 clutch with no flywheel. Would my LS2 flywheel work with this? Also, is it possible to get the Monster clutches without flywheels? I would just hate to not to use my flywheel because it only has ~3k miles on it, as does LS7 pressure plate and disc.

Could the LS7 clutch potentially be sold to help fund the new clutch or is the pressure plate no good for anybody anymore? I was under the impression that only I can't use it anymore because the pressure plate adjusted for a GM master cylinder and my Tick unit won't work with it.

Thanks again for all the replies guys.

LS1C5Vette

iTrader: (11)

You prob wont get much for it but its possible to prob get a good $100-$150 for it. How many miles are on it? I am surprised it held up with your power level.

SNLPerformance

iTrader: (15)

We don't sell our clutches seperately as it's not a good idea to mix an aggressive friction material with a cast flywheel. That's why we use Billet SFI certified flywheels with our clutches. Give me a call if you have any questions, Chris

CJJones87

iTrader: (3)

We will see what it fetches, but I even looked up sale threads to get an idea of what they go for, and 200-300 is the norm. I only got 3k miles on mine before I swapped in the Tick and found the incompatibility and was informed I'd have to buy a new pressure plate. The disc looks brand new... And my power level is only ~450rwhp. LS7 clutches hold up GREAT in this power range, some even take them to the 500s. Not to turn this into a for sale thread but when I get it out, I planned on selling it with the GM master that also only has 3k on it for around 350, but we will see and cross that bridge when I get there.

CJJones87

iTrader: (3)

Oh ok, I see. Do you guys not separate your clutch kits at all? Perhaps to someone that already had a billet steel flywheel of another brand? Thanks for the input.

hookinmouth1

May have come in a little late but try adjusting the master cyl out little bits at a time. Then drive it. It may be holding fluid pressure in the slave and not allowing 100% clutch engagement. I have the tick master cyl. and pedal height was probabily 2" lower then the brake pedal. As they say dont over adjust correcting for stock pedal height. My worn clutch assy. didnt care much for the added pressure and over two weeks kept having to adjust it out until basiclly ran out so it wouldnt hardly take any gear.

flintwrench69

iTrader: (11)

All I can say is I installed an LS7 clutch & ran it for 6 months with the stock master. I installed a Tick MC after & had none of the problems mentioned. I also never had a shim installed either. Still working good too.