Need help bleeding LS1/T56 clutch
#1
Need help bleeding LS1/T56 clutch
Bought a 2000 Trans Am WS6 which had an oil leak. Replaced the pan gasket and rear main seal. Car is pretty much put back together, but I now have run into a dilemma. The clutch won't bleed
When I was reinstalling the T56 I accidentally broke the slave I got a replacement from Autozone, but the thing just won't bleed! No fluid coming out. I'm dropping the tranny again and will be replacing the master, clutch line, and slave (OEM this time). Maybe the Autozone one is just a POS?? I also ordered the tick performance remote bleeder to make bleeding less of a PITA.
Anything I should try before I buy all those parts? Am I doing anything wrong??
When I was reinstalling the T56 I accidentally broke the slave I got a replacement from Autozone, but the thing just won't bleed! No fluid coming out. I'm dropping the tranny again and will be replacing the master, clutch line, and slave (OEM this time). Maybe the Autozone one is just a POS?? I also ordered the tick performance remote bleeder to make bleeding less of a PITA.
Anything I should try before I buy all those parts? Am I doing anything wrong??
#3
10 Second Club
iTrader: (10)
Jack the front of the car up about 2 feet and leave the back tires on the ground, leave the cap off the reservoir, and pump the clutch pedal quickly. The bleeder is a pain to reach and it hardly works. I've had way better results leaving the bleeder closed and using the above method.
#4
12 Second Club
iTrader: (7)
The slave holds a lot of fluid relative to the size of the line. I drilled a hole in the tunnel so that I could fit a socket with U-joint in there to bleed it by myself from in the car. I use my left hand to pump the clutch pedal and my right hand to crack the bleeder. I remember when I replaced the slave cylinder I had to pump the pedal to build pressure, then push it down, crack the bleeder, then close it and let the pedal back up.
I had to do it atleast 50 times, every 2-3 times I would check the reservoir level. If the level gets below the pickup, you'll suck air and waste a lot of time getting it out.
If you crack the bleeder and let it gravity bleed, does fluid come out?
I had to do it atleast 50 times, every 2-3 times I would check the reservoir level. If the level gets below the pickup, you'll suck air and waste a lot of time getting it out.
If you crack the bleeder and let it gravity bleed, does fluid come out?
#5
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not sure how old this is but im having issues today. when i built my car i went to bleed my clutch and everything went fine. The next year i put in an ls7 clutch and flywheel with a new slave cyl and it bled fine again. I pulled the motor and tranny this winter for new heads and cam. I had it all back together today and the god damn thing will not bleed proper. I did manual cracking of the line with the pedal pressed as usual and nothing. So i adjusted the travel of my master cylinder off my clutch pedal and it seemed i was in the sweet spot before because any more travel starts causing fluid to bypass the aft seal and come dripping out onto my pedal. I ripped the passenger side of the motor apart down to taking off the valve cover and taping it off so i can get the stupid master cyl out. I opened it up and it had a bit of black grime in the back so i cleaned it and tested the seals and it pressurizes with no leaks so i just threw it back in. SOMEONE PLEASE IF YOU HAVE SOME IMPUT TO HELP ME OUT THIS IS DRIVING ME INSANE....
I am going to give it another shot tomorrow and see what i can do but i hope someone has more imput. thanks
I am going to give it another shot tomorrow and see what i can do but i hope someone has more imput. thanks
#7
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