Frans96SS

iTrader: (15)

Agreed

Mike454SS

iTrader: (4)

You might want to check your input shaft to pilot bearing engagement...spacing the trans away from the engine might be forcing the input shaft back too far...it might still be in there, but barely...you'd then need to look into an extended pilot to match the spacer. That could be a source of vibration.

Nmbr1GMfan

iTrader: (1)

So to remedy the situation you have created another by pulling the input out of the pilot. You have no idea how much throw the master has based on how its atached to the pedal (assuming this is the car in your sig) and you say clutch issue when its a hydraulic issue.

Snyper

iTrader: (27)

I agree with you but it is still a clutch issue. But please explain how its hydraulic and not clutch. If I were to put a factory clutch in the car the problem would go away. when I put the transmission together the clutch is too tall and is pressing on the throw out bearing creating the issue.

Snyper

iTrader: (27)

thats exactly what I was thinking. Awesome =)

Snyper

iTrader: (27)

I just talked to Lee at Mcleod(very nice guy btw) and he said the problem is that im using an LS1 (fbody) throw out bearing with a GTO transmission and that the front plate sits closer to the engine causing the issue. I have to send my entire clutch setup to them and hes going to send me a race setup? Basically the same setup but with a thinner flywheel and thinner pressure plate, which he believes will solve the issue im having.

Nmbr1GMfan

iTrader: (1)

The reason I said hyd problem is because the clutch works perfect if able to fully release, guess I should have said the setup was improper. 100-125k air gap between the slave bearing (compressed slave)and PP fingers is what you need. Hope you get it up and running.

Snyper

iTrader: (27)

The solution to the problem is a new setup. I am sending back my entire flywheel/clutch setup and hes going to send me sort of a "test" setup. Same disks but im going to be getting the flywheel off of the street twin(.100 thinner than the regular one) and a prototype pressure plate which is also .100 thinner..which will give me .200" of space more which is JUST shy of 1/4" which should be more than enough clearance and give me a properly working setup. Also, im going to be removing the modified GTO clutch master (3/4" bore) and replacing it with the factory 350z 11/16" bore which should move pedal engagement right to the middle of the pedal. I will keep you guys updated.

Snyper

iTrader: (27)

Well new clutch is in and what a difference...clutch finally lets out where its supposed to and ive only put 30 miles on it so I couldn't really get on it but it seems to engage so much better. The stack height on the old clutch was wrong and there was 1/5" of preload on the pressure plate causing the whole clutch to slip on high boost. I should have enough miles on it by the weekend to try another run on high boost and pray for no slip. This clutch consists of a Fiero pressure plate and the street twin flywheel. So much better. They also upgraded me to the ceramic RXT over the Kevlar RXT. I dealt with Lee from Mcleod and have to say..they have awesome customer service. He was helpful throughout everything and even shipped me a new clutch on faith that I would return the old one. Thanks guys.

Nmbr1GMfan

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like you have it all worked out, good deal.

Snyper

iTrader: (27)

Yeah, it seems like the first clutch I had had the same issue but I wasn't making enough power on the block to really slip it. Now the new clutch grabs and feels so much better.

Billy M

Glad to see a positive outcome. I'll make sure to let Lee know all is well.

Snyper

iTrader: (27)

Tell him thanks for the great customer service. Had it not been for that I woulda been somewhere else by now.

Mike454SS

iTrader: (4)

Since it's been a couple weeks, I thought I'd ask how you like the clutch? How is engagement just driving normally? How does it handle a full throttle 3-4 shift on sticky tires that aren't slipping at that speed?

zo6 vett

iTrader: (1)

i have the similar troubles ,
with 10lbs boost ,with the tick master fix,it is driveable as long as the clutch is cool and i only boost a little.
16 lbs and it keeps getting worse until third slipped at 4k.
i re shimmed ,de glazed and still ,better ,not great.

Two years ago ,
i called in before i bought a clutch and asked all the right question(looked at all the manufacturers and called) as this was the third clutch to going the car and i was forging the bottom end and upping the power.I followed the McLeod techs instructions and got the Borg and Beck original 1200 hp and aluminum flywheel ,I got it from Black 99 here on the forum and took it in to their local dealer for inspection.I could not under stand why a clutch kit would cost $2200.00$,,750.00 for the second single Kevlar ceramic 6 puck was a shock.

www.clutchandpowertrain.com

They gave it a clean bill of heath and said"put it in" so i did.I bought extra shims while working with the tech at Mcloed. and setting it up just as they said on a drill press.it went straight to Florida for a tune and i drove it 600 easy miles home(tuner did 23 pulls but it seemed fine)[708 tq.] just a disengagement issue that was cured by a TICK master(300. dollar fix)This is of coarse being told it was needing to have the slave shimmed or i set it up wrong and a few other reason why it is not the clutch..
After some street tuning and finally seeing some results the clutch slips.(was fun while it lasted!!!
i dropped the exsaust and took off the cover plate and checked the shiming and it was .034.All i could do was cut out a shim and clean it up good(had a little grease show from the pilot bearing,not on discs).Again it seems ok but i called in to see WTF and now they are telling me that i have the wrong discs?
I need to pull it out and "send it in"(told me the same before Tick) for a $600.00 ceramic upgrade not just a $400.00 dollar rebuild!!
Have any of these guys ever had to take a clutch out of corvette on the floor?It is a bitch.And do i want to put another one in just to here its the other guy's fault?Or i am not a ase mechanic?this is the same thing with the second clutch company said ( i still have it because i would feel gilty dumping it on some one alse,3800# double strapped PP &32lb steel sfi flywheel).6000miles and it was on the rivets . All they do is charge me for a rebuild on a clutch that will not do as they said(750 tq).I admit i drive hard but, a clutch should hold up for at least 80-100 k miles before a replacement.If it can not then what about a disclaimer?
I can see why all the higher power guys go to automatic.

Monster sent me a PM but i have been down this road of the clutch experts and have wasted too much time and money hoping to find a set that holds up.
I am talking to Quartermaster at the moment .They have just come up with a 2000.00 kit that is a COMPLETE 8.5" kit and there are no excuses.A fellow by the name of Danny Popp at Mccluski chevy has been working with thim for some time and i will probably go with him.He said he just received the first two for his cars and will let me know.

http://www.mccluskeychevrolet.com/corvette-world.htm

Wish i could afford to have just sent it to him in the first place it would have been much cheaper.At least Excedy as a non turbo disclaimer on their site next to each part number. McLeod just wants you to "SEND IT BACK",like this will fix it?No it just prolongs the pain and eventually guys like me just go away by either selling the car,going to a auto,trying another brand or just turn down the boost?NEVER!!

This is my new drug of Joyce and until my left knee gives,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, i want to keep going

mike foote
mobile alabama

P.S.

let me know after 5000 or so miles if it still works?

Snyper

iTrader: (27)

So far so good.. The ceramic is much aggressive than both the organic and kevlar. Theres a lot of chatter and driving around in a parking lot is kind of embarrassing but..I guess you have to do what you have to do when you make a bunch of power. The pedal position actually only moved about an inch. It still lets off at the top but about an inch maybe almost 2 down instead of immediate.

Snyper

iTrader: (27)

Been a while since the update. About 2 weeks after I posted this the thrust bearing had let go on my new motor. Not exactly sure what caused it but the engine builder said the excessive pressure from the previous clutch not fitting MIGHT(not def) of had something to do with it. So the bearings are being replaced and the engine is being sold. I am now going with a stroker LS7 and am very hesitant to put the clutch back in the car. I was told by a rep at Mcleod that the faceplate on the LS2 GTO trans is actually differencet which is why the clutch was too tall but was then told by someone else from another clutch company not looking to get involved that that is absolutely not true.(that bothers the **** out of me)

I had called and asked to switch back to Kevlar discs because that is what I originally purchased and was sent ceramic discs but was told I would have to pay an addition 350$ for discs since these were used and I don't want to put another 1$ into this clutch setup. At this point I'm going to sell the clutch and move to something else. The clutch im using now fits and works perfect id just prefer something a little different where there are no lies or worries.

Any recommendations for a good street twin disc?

GREG O.

iTrader: (4)

rps won't fit unless u make some kind of spacer for it... unless u know differently....

BigRich954RR

iTrader: (1)

the twin will fit so will the triple and the gto trans not different in the bell housing area all ls1 clutches fit fine on my gto

get a RPS clutch well worth it

black-sinner

I have the RST on my car , it started slipping on 3rd gear with about 560whp on 11psi, but i didn't want to believe my 1200$ clutch set up did so, i pulled the clutch out yesterday and it was fryed... The question now is what to do? Pay for a spacer? Change set up to spec twin disk?