Slave/Hydraulic Issues
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I'll try to get ahold of Joey on Tuesday but I figured I'd throw this up here.
I bought a new GM slave, speed bleeder etc from Tick.
I connected the speed bleeder and used the copper washers and tighened everything up on the bench nice and tight. I connected the slave to the hydraulic line and opened the bleeder valve to let some fluid run through. Got the car back up in the air and noticed I had a droplet of brake fluid at the connection between the fitting and the slave (around the copper washer). I got my wrench and made sure it was tight, it didn't move. Still continued to seep.![Bang Head](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_banghead.gif)
What can I do to seal this up? I stopped for the night with that, because I wasn't about to throw everything back together. It's seeping with essentially no pressure on it, I'm sure I'll really notice it when I use the clutch. Plus it's possible for it to take in air at that point.
Suggestions?
![](http://inlinethumb05.webshots.com/46276/2696178600073048983S600x600Q85.jpg)
Upside down, just to let it bleed.
![](http://inlinethumb30.webshots.com/48157/2366789180073048983S600x600Q85.jpg)
So, how do I stop the leak?
Unrelated questions - I let fluid run through the system, about 1 full resievor full. After installing I can just pump the clutch and then crack the bleeder, right? It doesn't appear that this Tick unit has a one way check valve. Looks like I'll have to open and close it each time? Want to make sure that's how everyone is bleeding these things now.
Also for measuring to see if I need a shim or not. I'm using a Spec 5 clutch I've had for awhile. When I very first got it years ago, I used their shim, it didn't work right, so they said take it out. I'm also using a Quicktime bellhousing now, and I measured 1.940-1.960" from the bellhousing to the fingers. (Actually I forgot to subtract the thickness of my square, I'll measure that tomorrow).
I didn't measure the throwout to trans yet. Do I have to remove the spring? I would think I can just bottom out the slave and measure that? But since it's a factory trans and slave now, they all should measure about the same. What are others getting for this measurement? Need to know if I need to use Tick's shim.
What happens if I add the shim but really dont need it? (Even though I saw the thread said "every" spec clutch will need the shim).
Also, do you guys grease the needle pilot bearings?
Thanks guys!
I bought a new GM slave, speed bleeder etc from Tick.
I connected the speed bleeder and used the copper washers and tighened everything up on the bench nice and tight. I connected the slave to the hydraulic line and opened the bleeder valve to let some fluid run through. Got the car back up in the air and noticed I had a droplet of brake fluid at the connection between the fitting and the slave (around the copper washer). I got my wrench and made sure it was tight, it didn't move. Still continued to seep.
![Bang Head](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_banghead.gif)
What can I do to seal this up? I stopped for the night with that, because I wasn't about to throw everything back together. It's seeping with essentially no pressure on it, I'm sure I'll really notice it when I use the clutch. Plus it's possible for it to take in air at that point.
Suggestions?
![](http://inlinethumb05.webshots.com/46276/2696178600073048983S600x600Q85.jpg)
Upside down, just to let it bleed.
![](http://inlinethumb30.webshots.com/48157/2366789180073048983S600x600Q85.jpg)
So, how do I stop the leak?
Unrelated questions - I let fluid run through the system, about 1 full resievor full. After installing I can just pump the clutch and then crack the bleeder, right? It doesn't appear that this Tick unit has a one way check valve. Looks like I'll have to open and close it each time? Want to make sure that's how everyone is bleeding these things now.
Also for measuring to see if I need a shim or not. I'm using a Spec 5 clutch I've had for awhile. When I very first got it years ago, I used their shim, it didn't work right, so they said take it out. I'm also using a Quicktime bellhousing now, and I measured 1.940-1.960" from the bellhousing to the fingers. (Actually I forgot to subtract the thickness of my square, I'll measure that tomorrow).
I didn't measure the throwout to trans yet. Do I have to remove the spring? I would think I can just bottom out the slave and measure that? But since it's a factory trans and slave now, they all should measure about the same. What are others getting for this measurement? Need to know if I need to use Tick's shim.
What happens if I add the shim but really dont need it? (Even though I saw the thread said "every" spec clutch will need the shim).
Also, do you guys grease the needle pilot bearings?
Thanks guys!