MetallicaMatt

iTrader: (19)

Thanks for the info. From how I measured the slave to trans, I would agree that my measurement is higher than actual. Once I'm ready to put the trans back in, I'll remeasure.

So, does everyone seem to agree that the issue is in the clutch?

25thhawk

iTrader: (3)

I would agree that you have an issue with it. Whether or not it is worn out, I can't say. I would call spec and see how thick the disc should be first. Also I have seen measurements like that on an incorrectly torqued pressureplate. I would check that also. I don't have the number handy, but if you torque it too high it presses the fingers out further and screws everything up.

Ryan

MetallicaMatt

iTrader: (19)

Hopefully I can get ahold of Spec tomorrow and see what's up. This would stink if I need a new clutch. That thing doesn't have much on it.

Pressure plate should have been good. I had it to 55 or 65lbs...whatever the spec is. Torque wrench was just recalibrated a few months ago.

Thanks Ryan!

Matt

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

Mount the slave and check the measurements again. Make sure that the spring is removed and that the bleeder is open so the bearing can be fully compressed. Once it is compressed you can close the bleeder. Let me know what measurements you get when you do this and we can proceed as needed. Thanks,

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

It seems that you are really tring to make this a clutch issue but you don't sem to have taken the measurements as suggested. That being said if you want to check the disc thickness I can let you know how much wear is present. I am happy to help either way...but lets make sure the measurements are right before we jump the shark!

MetallicaMatt

iTrader: (19)

Jeremy - I sent you an email outlining the measurements - the correct way. Not trying to "make" this a clutch issue by any means. I appologize if it came out that way. I'm just stumped and have triple checked everything, the clutch was the only part I was fuzzy on - but now that we're in contact, I think we can figure this out.
Thank you for your help.



FYI for the ones following:
So tonight, I bolted the throwout to the transmission and removed the spring. Throwout to transmission was 2" on the dot as far as I could tell. This 2" is WITHOUT a shim behind the throwout.

TIP of the clutch fingers to the bellhousing was around 2.040" It varied slightly from some fingers to fingers. but on average was around 2.040. If I add the engine plate, I'll still only be around 2.165" or so.

If I measure from the base of the fingers (near the outside blue shell), to the bellhousing, I got 2.822". but this measurement is pointless I believe.

25thhawk

iTrader: (3)

That seems alright to me. I would use the block plate. Then remeasure just to make sure. I would probably use a .050 shim i the measurements come out the same. I like the gap to be around .125, but I would also use spec to recommend the gap. Some clutches dont need as much throw to disengage. Not sure how much the spec needs, but .165 air gap might be fine for their clutch.

MetallicaMatt

iTrader: (19)

Had some email conversations with Jeremy at SPEC. Waiting to see what he recommends on how to proceed. Sounds like my friction plate is shot anyways, worn down to a level where it should be replaced. Not sure why, but we'll figure it out.

Marcello7x

iTrader: (10)

Any update??? Im in a similar boat.

MetallicaMatt

iTrader: (19)

I ended up buying a new clutch. Got it in this afternoon.

My measurement originally for the throwout to the transmission was 2".
My measurement from the bellhousing to the clutch is around 2.215"

So that is somewhere around 0.215" air gap, correct?

I have a 0.115" shim, throw that in, and I'll have around 0.100" air gap.

How does this look to everyone?

25thhawk

iTrader: (3)

Sounds right to me. Sucks that you had to buy a new clutch to get it right though. Did you go with another spec?

MetallicaMatt

iTrader: (19)

Yeah I really was hoping not to need a new clutch. So I should use the 0.115" shim and I should be good to go?

Yes, went with Spec again, just a different level. I was in contact with them on some of the other clutch measurements and they said it was at a point where it should be replaced.

MetallicaMatt

iTrader: (19)

I spoke with Spec and they recommend a .115-.225" air gap, which means, I don't have to use the shim, especially since with wear, the gap will decrease. I'm thinking about going without the shim, worse case, even if my measurement is off slightly, it'll wear into "tolerance"

Sound correct?

DAVESS02

iTrader: (30)

I'd leave it out also. Having a .100 air gap with the shim is cutting it close for my tastes. Just make sure you bleed it and check for full disengagement BEFORE you drive it. I put the rear tires OFF the ground, let the clutch out to let the wheels spin, then push in the clutch , and watch for the rear wheels to stop on their own. You should be able to rev it up to 3 k without the wheels SPINNING. By this I mean you may see the wheels make a revolution or 2 due to the disk scuffing a bit against the PP and flywheel, with the pedal pushed down, but you shouldnt see the spedo run up to 20 MPH or anything.

MetallicaMatt

iTrader: (19)

Thanks Dave!

I got the trans 90% installed....why is it that everytime I put the trans back in, I have to fight it the last little bit to the dowel pins lol

I haven't figured out a good try to get it to come up onto the dowel pins, other than install some slightly longer bolts and very carefully pull the trans up. I've had to do this probably the last 2-3 times. I couldn't find my longer bolts, so off to the store tomorrow and hopefully finish it up.

DAVESS02

iTrader: (30)

I know what you mean. I always use the transmission to line up the disk instead of a plastic alignment tool just to be certain I'm lined up good on the pilot bearing and its still the same for me every time. Part of it is the spring on the slave.

MetallicaMatt

iTrader: (19)

I agree, we're fighting the spring pressure at that point. Plus, i'm on my lift, so I'm trying to push above my head, which doesn't give me the most force either...

TSC after work to grab some longer bolts and I should be ready to rock.

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

You should not have to pull the transmission on with bolts. You need to crack the bleeder and release the hydraulic pressure on the bearing, pushing it back fully, and then close the bleeder. This should allow you to push the trans on without interference. Let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks,

DAVESS02

iTrader: (30)

Yep, should have mentioned I always hook the line onto the trans before the last 1" of install.