Need advice, can't get into gear when car is started...
#1
Need advice, can't get into gear when car is started...
Ok so I recently swapped out the auto for a t56. I'm having an issue with getting the car to go into gear. Whenever the car is off all the gears go into place, but when I have it running the trans refuses to go into gear.
I have bled the clutch with the Mity Vac and achieved a very firm pedal feel, was bled for about 20 min. Should I have bled the clutch longer? I can start the car in first gear but it lunges forward with the clutch to the floor. It is also impossible to pull it out of gear until I turn the car off. The clutch is an LS7.
Whenever I had the car running in gear I could hear some metal to metal scraping sounds. Could I have bolted the pressure plate too tight? I have a feeling this could be the root of my issues. Any insight is greatly appreciated.
I have bled the clutch with the Mity Vac and achieved a very firm pedal feel, was bled for about 20 min. Should I have bled the clutch longer? I can start the car in first gear but it lunges forward with the clutch to the floor. It is also impossible to pull it out of gear until I turn the car off. The clutch is an LS7.
Whenever I had the car running in gear I could hear some metal to metal scraping sounds. Could I have bolted the pressure plate too tight? I have a feeling this could be the root of my issues. Any insight is greatly appreciated.
#5
I read in a sticky somewhere that the ls7 doesn't require a shim? That was one of the first things I thought about. That the slave doesn't have the travel to disengage the clutch.
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#8
Yeah, I'm having a feeling it may be pressure plate related... Could over tightening the pressure plate cause these symptoms also? The clutch is brand new also. New master also, but the slave is used with a new bearing thrown on it.
#9
don't people have problems with the self adjusting ls7 pressure plate adjusting wrong and then never getting it to engage/disengage properly?
have you tried starting it with the car in gear and seeing if it just lurches or where the pedal grabs?
have you tried starting it with the car in gear and seeing if it just lurches or where the pedal grabs?
#10
This doesn't necessarily mean it's the slave. There are numerous inherent design issues with the LS7 pressure plate that will cause this.
If you've bled the system and the fluid is clean then look for leaks. If the master and slave are not leaking then more than likely it's a clutch issue.
I wouldn't bother with trying to fix the LS7, call the guys at Tick who are having a sale on Monsters and buy a Level 1. It's far superior in every way to the LS7 and a premium package will replace the slave. Best part is that at that point you have a 12 month warranty on the clutch.
If you've bled the system and the fluid is clean then look for leaks. If the master and slave are not leaking then more than likely it's a clutch issue.
I wouldn't bother with trying to fix the LS7, call the guys at Tick who are having a sale on Monsters and buy a Level 1. It's far superior in every way to the LS7 and a premium package will replace the slave. Best part is that at that point you have a 12 month warranty on the clutch.
#11
I have started it in gear and it lurches forward pretty hard lol. There is no pedal at all it seems. I had to drive it across town clutchless today after work, that was interesting.
Looks like I will be getting in touch with you soon Steve lol.
Looks like I will be getting in touch with you soon Steve lol.
#13
just because you have a firm pedal does not mean it is bleed properly.. The one and only time i used the vac method i also had a firm pedal but there was still air in the system.. Not until after bleeding the manual way was the pedal both firm and went into gear after engine was running.. good luck
#15
I seriously doubt the op's concern is from over tighten pressure plate bolts. I say pull the trans and check fingers on the pressure plate and make sure the disc is facing the right way.
#16
The disc is installed correctly
This makes me feel much better. I wasn't too sure after the Mity Vac whether or not I bled it correctly. I had a **** ton of bubbles using the Vac then after awhile they went away. Never did manually bleed the clutch afterward, so I will give it a shot after work today.
I just went by feel. For what it's worth all the pressure plate fingers were even after I was finished and it felt/looked correct but I may be wrong. I have done alot of import clutches this way, so my luck may have run out on this one lol.
I'm gonna go with bleeding it more as suggested earlier and see if I just jumped the gun. If no success I will pull the tranny and check out the pressure plate.
just because you have a firm pedal does not mean it is bleed properly.. The one and only time i used the vac method i also had a firm pedal but there was still air in the system.. Not until after bleeding the manual way was the pedal both firm and went into gear after engine was running.. good luck
I'm gonna go with bleeding it more as suggested earlier and see if I just jumped the gun. If no success I will pull the tranny and check out the pressure plate.
#17
The mityvac is great for replacing fluid with clean, but you want to use a combination of manual and mityvac as there is usually a pocket in the master that the mity just can't suck out of where as a few good pushes on the pedal can.
Do you have a speed bleeder line or are you still right at the transmission to do it? If you run a speed bleeder line you can run that line straight to the reservoir, submerge the tip and manually bleed that way.
Do you have a speed bleeder line or are you still right at the transmission to do it? If you run a speed bleeder line you can run that line straight to the reservoir, submerge the tip and manually bleed that way.
#18
Thanks I will definitely use the Mity while using the pedal, hopefully it will yield positive results.
I don't have a speed bleeder line but I did cut a hole by the gas pedal to access the bleeder screw.
I don't have a speed bleeder line but I did cut a hole by the gas pedal to access the bleeder screw.
#19
Well here is an update
I went back and bled the system for a couple of hours yesterday using a combo of the Mity and pedal pumping/cracking. Got a ton of bubbles pulled through, more than I expected. Went back to try and get the car in gear while running, still no disengagement. And the pedal feels firmer than other attempts at bleeding.
I remember when installing the tranny I didn't have the bleeder screw on the slave loosened. Could this have damaged the slave? I read something today about possible damage to the slave if the bleeder screw wasnt loosened upon install. Can anyone confirm this? Other than that there are no leaks in the system at all that I can find. I am stumped...
The only thing I haven't done was pull the starter to see if the throw out bearing is pushing against the pp fingers. And I will be doing that within the next couple of hours.
I went back and bled the system for a couple of hours yesterday using a combo of the Mity and pedal pumping/cracking. Got a ton of bubbles pulled through, more than I expected. Went back to try and get the car in gear while running, still no disengagement. And the pedal feels firmer than other attempts at bleeding.
I remember when installing the tranny I didn't have the bleeder screw on the slave loosened. Could this have damaged the slave? I read something today about possible damage to the slave if the bleeder screw wasnt loosened upon install. Can anyone confirm this? Other than that there are no leaks in the system at all that I can find. I am stumped...
The only thing I haven't done was pull the starter to see if the throw out bearing is pushing against the pp fingers. And I will be doing that within the next couple of hours.
#20
Bumping this back up
Ok so I recently bought a Tick master cylinder to see if it could possibly fix my getting into gear issues. I installed it and went to bleed it for a couple of hours. After all is said and done I have a super stiff pedal but I still can't get into gear
There is a slight change though from last time. This time I can start the car in gear with the pedal to the floor and it doesn't jump forward as much. It actually seems to just creep ahead with some slight stuttering. And when I release the clutch it catches completely.
I imagine this is a sign of progress?? Lol.
And to achieve this, the pedal is adjusted way out and am not sure how much farther it can go. Any other suggestions/help is greatly appreciated.
Ok so I recently bought a Tick master cylinder to see if it could possibly fix my getting into gear issues. I installed it and went to bleed it for a couple of hours. After all is said and done I have a super stiff pedal but I still can't get into gear
There is a slight change though from last time. This time I can start the car in gear with the pedal to the floor and it doesn't jump forward as much. It actually seems to just creep ahead with some slight stuttering. And when I release the clutch it catches completely.
I imagine this is a sign of progress?? Lol.
And to achieve this, the pedal is adjusted way out and am not sure how much farther it can go. Any other suggestions/help is greatly appreciated.