Blk98ls1

iTrader: (3)

Alright guys so I've been having problems with my Tick built level 2 trans grinding in all gears and after extensive diagnosis, a thread in this section, and help from Jonathan over at Tick... I've come to the conclusion that I need a new clutch. This is the 2nd Monster I've had in less than 2 years. I don't know what the hell went wrong with this one, but the clutch fingers are most likely bent since I can feel pulsing in my pedal. I track the car 1 to 2 times a year with only 3-4 passes per visit. I don't constantly launch the car, I have Nitto 555's on the back, so no drag radials. I was driving the car normal when I first had the grinding issue.

So onto my question. My first Monster was a level 3, but I was one of the unlucky few who got sent a f'ed up pressure plate. Clutch never disengaged, bought a Tick Master, didn't help. Found out it was an error by the manufacturer of the pp, they weren't perfectly flat. Monster got to the bottom of it, and sent me a level 5 pp and disc free of charge. Great customer service. But, now this level 5 has crapped out in less than 2 years. Limited track, 9 runs. No drag radials. What gives?

Everything was installed fresh too. All new slave, bearings, m/c, even the trans was freshly rebuilt by tick when I put the Level 5 in. I'm looking to get another clutch, but funds are extremely limited. I do not have the tools to do my own clutch swap, so I have to pay a shop to do it. I cannot afford to have to pay for multiple installs. I need to do this right once and be done with it. I thought that's what I had done with the level 5 and tick built t-56, but I guess not.

Should I trust monster again and go with a level 2? As I said before they are a great company with great customer service. I'm looking for no chatter and just a damn clutch that can hold my power and drive normal, that will LAST!

Or should I go a different route, maybe Ls7? Please, any input, suggestions, or ideas would be greatly appreciated. If it means no more track to have it last than so be it. My car is my Daily driver, so I need this new and hopefully last clutch I put in to work and for a while! Thank you guys.

djfury05

iTrader: (30)

What does Monster say about it?

Blk98ls1

iTrader: (3)

I called and talked to them when I first starting having trouble with the clutch and he said it was very hard to bend the fingers and he felt it might be in the hydraulics. It's definitely not the Tick master, holds pressure, no leaks. Or the slave, holds pressure bleeds fine, and no leaks. Only thing left over is the clutch assembly. Like I said they have great customer service, but I am looking for a reliable clutch for my car and I'm asking you guys here to see if the reliability has improved since I put mine in or if should go a completely different route to find what I'm looking for.

redtail2426

iTrader: (10)

the only way to do that is to over extend the pressure plate by not adjusting your tick master correctly.Sounds like you over extended it.are you running an aftermarket bellhousing?

therealcreeper

iTrader: (37)

did you measure to see if you need a shim?

even if you have a perfect trans, perfect clutch, and perfect hydraulics, if it needs to be shimmed and it's not you're going to have issues. also it's pretty obvious but is the shifter cup bushing there? and if you're using an aftermarket shifter the stops are removed/adjusted far enough out? andddd did you spend weeks bleeding the system to be sure all the air is out?

WS6SP33D

iTrader: (2)

This^ I have replaced a lot of peoples clutches and pressure plate because they figured they didn't need a shim on the last install. Just a little feedback. good luck op

SNLPerformance

iTrader: (15)

It was good talking to you on the phone, I have a hard time believing it's the pressure plate with it being intermittent. I'm curious to see what you find out when you pull it apart, keep me updated. Chris, 817-750-2000

Blk98ls1

iTrader: (3)

This may be the case, but the pedal was even with the brake pedal, and it was only adjusted until the car would no longer roll with the rev test. I'm thinking it's the fingers, but Jonathan from Tick also said it could be an uneven pressure plate or disc.

We did not as Monster states that their clutches do not need to be shimmed. I have not checked the shifter cup bushing. My b&m ripper does not have the stops. System was bled with Ticks speed bleeder, of course I did not bleed it for weeks as I was unaware I had to bleed the system this much. I would have though if I read to somewhere. I will now do this though, thank you.

So does anyone have any advice on which manufacturer/clutch kit I should go with? I'm obviously looking for reliability and no chatter. Thanks for the help guys.

BADD SS

iTrader: (4)

why the level 5 on a 400rwhp car?

The level 3 lasted in my car through 50 track passes, 5000 miles, and 15-20 dyno pulls, had almost no wear when removed.... this was with 430 rwhp, going 10.9-11.0 in the 1/4

Adam1982

iTrader: (6)

wondered that as well, sounded like he got the lvl 5 to make up for the fact the pp was messed up the first go around? Either way, ive been running the lvl 3 for over 2 years now at your same power lvl and have had no issues, weird

Blk98ls1

iTrader: (3)

They sent me a 5 since the 3 was messed up and I'm sure they had no good 3's in stock.

I don't know what happened either. I'll know when I get enough money to replace it. Just going to baby it for now. I'm leaning towards a LS7 clutch/flywheel and no more track, just normal driving and few good pulls every now and then. Do you guys think it will be okay in my car at the power level its at now?

1BAD02WS6

iTrader: (-1)

I had the ls7. Drove nice but never held the power I was making 415rwhp 400rwtq

BrntWS6

iTrader: (7)

I'd steer clear of an LS7 after researching clutches for 3 months. They seem to have about a 20% or so failure rate.

Just put a Diamond stage 2 in and love it. No chatter at all....there on sale right now too.

t5munoz

Call Jason at Texas Drivetrain Performance for a clutch hell hook you up!!!

Blk98ls1

iTrader: (3)

How much is the sale price and where can I get the sale price

BrntWS6

iTrader: (7)

TDP....1-817-847-7900. That might be Jason's cell, I can't remember.

$689.00 shipped for a complete kit, that includes the lightweight flywheel. FYI his clutches don't use alignment dowels. My shop was scratching their heads at that one but they seem to work just fine without them. Jason even called my shop to talk to them about it. Best vendor I've ever dealt with on here.

SNLPerformance

iTrader: (15)

A level 1 would be a far better option than the LS7, you already have the flywheel and pressure plate...

Blk98ls1

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the info, but I'm not sure the pressure plate or even the flywheel would be usable once everything is visible. I can't afford to pay for labor on dropping the trans twice either. So I'm just going to get everything new.

Fafonfoe

iTrader: (1)

I had put a level 2 monster in my setup and less than 3K miles started having issues as you described. When I took the clutch off I found the fingers bent and bad heat spots. Went to the track once, two runs leaving at 3K and can't stop the clutch chatter at all. Very loud. Also the slave from the kit gave me issues. Replaced clutch and slave and havent had a problem at all. I did shim the new clutch to spec but not the monster. Car drove great for the first 3K. Great customer service at monster. I'm not talking bad about them at all just stating I had the same issues. Running a Mcleod twin disc setup, very nice.

Nowhereman

The guys I hang with have hard core modifieds that are raced regularly.
All of them to a guy run McLeod.
They swear by em.
I'm changing out my WS clutch this winter and I am putting in a McLeod twin disk street system.
Two organic plates and can handle 800 HP without issues.
Good pedal pressure too.
Give em a look as these guys I run with a perfectionist with their cars.