Is there Aany clutch that will SHIFT PASSED 7000 RPM'S
#22
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from what i set not that many f body's cracked the 9.xx slot with a stock bottom end. one i do that n/a i am going to spray the rods out of this motor and learn n20 and how to setup a shot then gofor the gold.
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I flat-foot shift at 7300 in my car with no problems and have done it with 2 diff clutch setups on a non face plate t56. First was a Spec 3, current is a McLeod RXT twin. Tick master cyl, napa slave, bronze pilot. It's all about a light weight stack, getting full release & shifting technique. Hope ya get it figured out, your sled hauls the mail for sure!
Vid: Light comes on at 7100
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A8OabSkTiqA
Vid: Light comes on at 7100
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A8OabSkTiqA
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Do you remember I had the same problem rob? Everyone told me im nuts etc. 4 clutches none worked over 7000. They would not clamp back down on the disc till 7000 rpm or less. I finally got one to do it, but the damn thing slips at my new power level.. Im bringing it back to they guy who built it for me to increase the clamp load a little more. But I shifted it at 7900-8000 rpm last week at the track, and the street, not a single problem. If the increased clamp load helps, I'll give you the guys number.
I even tried that stupid centerforce that two people told me would work, and it let the weights go loose, went out of balance, caught the starter and destroyed my old motor.
I even tried that stupid centerforce that two people told me would work, and it let the weights go loose, went out of balance, caught the starter and destroyed my old motor.
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Do you remember I had the same problem rob? Everyone told me im nuts etc. 4 clutches none worked over 7000. They would not clamp back down on the disc till 7000 rpm or less. I finally got one to do it, but the damn thing slips at my new power level.. Im bringing it back to they guy who built it for me to increase the clamp load a little more. But I shifted it at 7900-8000 rpm last week at the track, and the street, not a single problem. If the increased clamp load helps, I'll give you the guys number.
I even tried that stupid centerforce that two people told me would work, and it let the weights go loose, went out of balance, caught the starter and destroyed my old motor.
I even tried that stupid centerforce that two people told me would work, and it let the weights go loose, went out of balance, caught the starter and destroyed my old motor.
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Good choice on the clutch there.
With the Tick M/C, a Tick lvl 2 T56 (M12 version), and my Monster clutch, I never had problems shifting above 7000 in my Goat. My problem was 3rd gear billet keys breaking. SNL had one of their local guys (now a sponsor here I think) fix that problem, and no more shifting problems.
I have yet to meet anybody else who knows more about clutches than Steve, one of the owners of Monster. When you walk into his office and see friction material samples on his desk, you know he's serious. He doesn't count on someone somewhere to tell him what might work. He works with the engineers to come up with an idea, goes out and beats on it, breaks ****, and comes back and tries again. My new G8 is an A6 car, but I guarantee you that if it was an M6 car, it would have another Monster in it.
With the Tick M/C, a Tick lvl 2 T56 (M12 version), and my Monster clutch, I never had problems shifting above 7000 in my Goat. My problem was 3rd gear billet keys breaking. SNL had one of their local guys (now a sponsor here I think) fix that problem, and no more shifting problems.
I have yet to meet anybody else who knows more about clutches than Steve, one of the owners of Monster. When you walk into his office and see friction material samples on his desk, you know he's serious. He doesn't count on someone somewhere to tell him what might work. He works with the engineers to come up with an idea, goes out and beats on it, breaks ****, and comes back and tries again. My new G8 is an A6 car, but I guarantee you that if it was an M6 car, it would have another Monster in it.