borrone821

iTrader: (3)

Hey guys, I've was trying to bleed my clutch last night and ran into problems.

Background, running a T56 and stock MC out of a 2005 GTO. (it's in a 69 GTO).
I replaced the clutch and slave months ago. I hooked the lines and the little reservoir up and I've go NO pressure on the pedal. I can push the MC rod all the way in without any resistance.
What could be causing this? I thought it might be because i've got no fluid in the system but really have no idea and that doesn't make much sense.
I searched around here but couldn't find any answers.


Thanks
Jim

MR_M

iTrader: (5)

Be sure that it has fluid and do a thorough bleed to get the air out. What kind of master cylinder are you using? Should have a positive pedal at that point. Search ''bleed'' or ''bleeding'' clutch or master cylinder in the manual transmission section and tons of threads explaining various bleeding methods should come up.

borrone821

iTrader: (3)

That was the real question... I'm starting from scratch and have no fluid anywhere except in the reservoir.
Pushing the pedal in and out does not push fluid through the system. What am I doing wrong or how do I check to make sure the MC is doing what it's supposed to

MR_M

iTrader: (5)

You can test the master by unplugging it from the slave and lightly pushing the clutch pedal by hand. If it feels hard then it should be keeping pressure. If it goes down while you are pushing on it then that is a good indication that the seals are bad internally and not holding pressure.

If the pedal is hard then there may still be some air still in there, and getting every bit of it is a pain in the *** for sure. What bleeding method are you using?

borrone821

iTrader: (3)

There's nothing but air in my system right now.. I'm essentially starting from scratch.

So if I unplug the master from the slave, the rod that connects to the pedal should have difficulty being pushed down?
I tried that last night and had no pressure coming back... I could pull it in and out all day long.
Does this mean I need a new master?

MR_M

iTrader: (5)

Yes correct, that is a bad sign if the pedal can be pushed in and out without it being hooked up. I had this same exact thing happen to me and i had to get a new master. Put the new master in, rebled, and was good to go.

borrone821

iTrader: (3)

Shiza.... thanks a ton.

Any idea the best place to buy a new master? I dont' feel like dropping the 300+ for a Tick

therealcreeper

iTrader: (37)

squeeze/burp the line that runs from the reservoir to the master cylinder, sometimes that line has so much air in it the fluid has trouble making it down to the master. I usually disconnect the line from the master to the slave and use a screw driver to hold in the valve so that fluid can flow downward easier. once you do that, plug the line back into the slave and you should begin to get a pedal and then you can start bleeding conventionally/jmd method/whatever you choose

therealcreeper

iTrader: (37)

I would get some fluid in the master and try it before replacing it, if it's completely dry there's no fluid to cause pressure and it's just compressing air. I would think there would still be some resistance/pressure but I would give it a try first

MR_M

iTrader: (5)

^ very good idea there realcreeper (Edit- holding the line open) Good way to help get the pedal started for sure when starting with dry hydraulics.

Places like autozone usually carry the master for like 70 bucks, just got to re use your hydraulic line.

MR_M

iTrader: (5)

My mistake, i over looked this part. I agree definitely, get some fluid in there and try bleeding again.

borrone821

iTrader: (3)

Yeah I'm gonna pull the whole thing out and "bench test" it.

Other than squeezing the line, how do I ensure there is fluid in the master? Doesn't depressing the rod pull fluid from the master? I guess the question is, how do I check if my master is any good or not?
If I have the reservoir and line going to the master out of the car, depressing the rod should push fluid out of the port that goes to the slave, correct? If that doesn't happen, does that guarantee I need a new master? Is there any way to fix the one i have?

Thanks for all the help guys.
Jim

VandykeT/A

Let me tell you what happened to me. When I bought my SS the pedal pulled right off the floor and locked me out of gear. Well I replaced the master but I never could get any pressure on the pedal. Bled and bled and still nothing. So I got another after that and still nothing. Then I replaced the slave and still nothing, then the line still nothing. I talked to a mechanic and he told me to disconnect the line from the slave and take the master off and make the pressure line be higher than the reservoir line and pump it up by hand and then let it off with a screwdriver pressing it into the end of the line. I did this one time and right in my hand it built up pressure. I put it back on with no bleeding and I instantly had enough pedal to change gears. I bleed it 5 or 6 times and all is well. I worked on this car for a week just trying to get the pedal to pressurize, used and all it would have took the first time was that 30second step. The mechaic told more than likely what was happening was the fluid was running straight through the system and not actually filling up the master. As quick as it came in it ran out the bottom.

borrone821

iTrader: (3)

vandyke, appreciate the reply. guess I'll have to try that as well.

VandykeT/A

Let us know what happens. I just knew I had some kind of underlying problem that I just wasn't seeing. I had done 3 other cars 2 were ticks however and had abosolutely no problems this one I ran more than half a gallon of fluid through. GL

therealcreeper

iTrader: (37)

when I did my m6 swap I spent 2 days bleeding it

now I use an old slave to bleed the master before I install it in the car:

borrone821

iTrader: (3)

Alright, so I pulled the master out of the car. I noticed a small hole in the rubber boot. Could that be part of the problem? I noticed when I plugged it up, the rod extended back out when I pushed it in and what tiny amount of fluid was in it came flying out the slave port
I put some gorilla glue on the tiny hole and am waiting for it to set then will put RTV around it. If that's my problem, anybody know where I can get a new boot?

VandykeT/A

I think the boot is just a dust cover for the internal parts of the master cylinder but I could be wrong.

borrone821

iTrader: (3)

I hope so...
Can anyone confirm that the boot is just a dust cover? of does it act as a vacuum seal?

borrone821

iTrader: (3)

Alright,
So after pulling the master, sealing up a pinhole on the boot w/ gorillae glue and RTV, my MC build presure now. I don't know if it was the burping as suggested above or what, but now I can start pushing fluid.

Now I've got another problem.... A leak from where the flexline meets the hardline, right on the side of the trans.
Anyone know what would cause this? I've never separated this before so I'm not sure what it's supposed to look like

I have no idea how to upload photos this is the connector.
http://s159.photobucket.com/albums/t...7186580814.jpg

Is this ok? What would cause a leak here?
The part where this fitting screws into the flex line is good, but it's leaking where the tube w/ hard plastic kind of clips into the hardline.

Looking for any and all help.
thanks
Jim