1SLwLS1

iTrader: (6)

I installed a Tick adjustable MC in March of 2010, around 25K miles ago. Recently I have been having pedal issues and I have tried a million different times to bleed the system and the pedal never gets better. I am able to drive it but the pedal releases right off of the floor and it doesn't return all the way up unless I pull it up with the top of my shoe.

Here's the question, is the stud that goes through the firewall and connects to the master cylinder supposed to be able spin? I was trying to adjust it tonight to get it more comfortable until I can get everything kosher. When I loosened the jam nuts and started lengthening the rod, I noticed that stud was spinning. I am planning on calling Tick in the morning to confirm but I wanted a quick answer so I can at least cut my losses for today and stop working on it.

I'm thinking if it is NOT supposed to be able to spin, then maybe that's the problem with my hydraulic system, otherwise, who knows...

EDIT: I know it is not supposed to be spin as you adjust, to be more clear, is the spinning stud an indication of MC failure or I am doing it wrong?

FancyFarmSS

iTrader: (5)

I just installed the Tick MC last week, and yes, the stud is able to spin. Just be sure it isn't spinning when you're turning the adjustment rod or the length will never change. Also, I think you're supposed to adjust the length until it's just long enough that you can shift into 1st smoothly. Don't know what could happen if you make it too long.

Not sure what method you're using to bleed it, but I used a Mity Vac hand vacuum pump (I have a remote bleeder) and the pedal was firm after a couple of minutes of bleeding, without having to pump the pedal at all. I'm a firm (no pun intended) believer in the Mity Vac. Used it to bleed the brakes in no time. Not really sure what you're exact problem is, but I would guess it's air somewhere in the system.

FancyFarmSS

iTrader: (5)

Mine was able to spin right out of the box. I don't think that indicates any sort of failure.

Also, have you checked to make sure your hydraulic line is pushed tight into the slave cylinder and that the bleed connection is tight on the slave? Any indication of fluid leakage due to a leaky line or blown slave? Just some thoughts...

fastazzls1

hold it and you have something else going on did you take the return spring off the clutch pedal

jbridwelltransam

iTrader: (12)

If it worked a while back, you might want to check around the bottom of the cylinder and see if it is leaking anywhere.

FancyFarmSS

iTrader: (5)

Yes, I did remove the return spring. Not sure what the first part of this post is saying?

FancyFarmSS

iTrader: (5)

Sorry fastazzls1, thought I was responding to the OP

1SLwLS1

iTrader: (6)

Everything is connected and tight, no leaks. I had a busted line, replaced it and it drove fine for a while, now this. I cannot get that stud to NOT spin.

No, I haven't messed with the return spring, that's why it can pop up when I pull it up with the top of my shoe.

FancyFarmSS

iTrader: (5)

I assume you've loosened the nuts away from the rod on the top and bottom, noting that the top nut is reverse threaded. You might have to carefully put a pair of pliers on the threaded rod to hold it still, but you don't want to mess up any of those threads.

Which line busted? If there's no leaks, then there must be air in the system, right? Or maybe the MC can fail, but I don't know how likely that is, and what the symptoms are.

jbridwelltransam

iTrader: (12)

I put vice grips on the bottom of the rod coming out of the cylinder under the threads and that kept it from spinning.

1SLwLS1

iTrader: (6)

Yea, the jam nuts are free, pliers may be the only way. The line from the master to the slave failed but that is because my restraints failed and the line was resting on the collector for I am guessing a period of time. Although I could never pin point the leaking point on the line, but I replaced it and it everything was working fine up until a week ago.

I doubt the MC has failed though and I just have to bleed the system even more although this is more then when I installed the MC. The pedal is getting firm but not returning anywhere near the top.

FancyFarmSS

iTrader: (5)

Even though this isn't exactly the way I do it since I have a remote bleeder line, it might be worth a try:

http://performanceworks1.com/ls1_clutch_bleeding.htm
http://home.comcast.net/~buschman_00...utchbleed.html

If I haven't said it already, I highly recommend the Mity Vac, lol. Of course, if you have the transmission out, the remote bleed line is probably the best. But this method should do about as well, just take longer. Although I've never tried it, the manual procedure for bleeding seems like it would take forever in comparison, be a lot messier, and you still wouldn't be sure if you had all the air out.

1SLwLS1

iTrader: (6)

Yea, I am attempting to gravity bleed the system now as that has worked the past couple of times I needed to quickly (relatively) get the system working again. I guess I am going to have to fold and finally get a mityvac. I wish I had the trans out as I would just install the speed bleeder, this is my DD

Hopefully I can get it to work just somewhat tonight so I can pick up a mityvac and get it working in the morning.

I got the stud unfrozen from the rod as well.

1SLwLS1

iTrader: (6)

I used the mityvac for 3 hours this morning and still don't have a clutch pedal. I pulled tons of air too, at least 4-5 reservoir's worth (from the brim). It was still pulling air and the pedal isn't getting any better. I guess I may try a little more with the mityvac and if that doesn't work, I will yank out the master cylinder and attempt to flush the entire system and bench bleed it.

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

^ Well thats half your issue. I hope you did not run too much pressure and blew anything out....

Every single hydraulic clutch, including 3 different Tick units, I have always GRAVITY bleed the unit. This CAN NOT fail.

With the unit install, the car up in the air (nose pointed up). Fill the Res up to full, disconnect the line to the slave. let start draining (in a cup), refill as the Res gets low and once you have a steady stream, push the line in.

Then fill Res to full. Have someone get in the car (who can listen to your exact instructions.

NO PUMPING the clutch at any time!!

Fill res to max, cap it. Have them press down on clutch, you get underneath, crack the bleeder. Should have good pressure. THen tighten, and have them manually pull the pedal back. Then have them repeat. By the 3rd time they pulled back, add some fluid in the res.

No joking every tick unit was rock solid hard by the 4-5 push down of the pedal. I re add as a top off and drive.

Easy as hell.

Do that and come back, let us know.

jbridwelltransam

iTrader: (12)

If you put a lot of pressure down on the mity vac you could have flipped the seal and potentially ruined your MC. If you were constantly pulling a lot of air, I would say you either messed up a seal or you have a leak somewhere even possibly on the slave.

1SLwLS1

iTrader: (6)

That's essentially how I bled the system when I first installed the unit and it worked perfect until 2/20/2012 when the pedal went dead. I replaced the hose between the master and the slave 2/25/2012 and I was able to gravity bleed the system then and it has worked perfect until last Thursday, 3/8/2012, when the pedal stopped returning. I have been able to drive it (with the release point immediately off the floor) until yesterday. I will pull the MC out this weekend, clean everything out, and start from scratch again unless I notice something wrong with the MC when I pull it.

As far as the Mityvac goes, I never went about 5" because I didn't have to. I would do around half a pump and huge bubbles would start flowing.

There is no external leak, the only thing I can see is air in the system or an internal leak which I why I am having this issue in the first place.

I called Tick and they gave me a little test to diagnose the master. I will give that a try as well.