I have a H/C - ZO6, modest torque at 400rwtq. I have fried two Spec3. The second one after 500 mile breakin and first trip to strip, clutch failed on 3rd pass with 45 minutes between runs....I am considering RAM 910, McLeod single or twin and Exedy twin (which has a price tag of $1550 - ouch)...Car is my daily driver and i go to track up to twice per month...what clutch do you guys recommend for my set-up, what are positve/negative....thanks.

 

you shouldnt be going thru them like that...
Are you sure you did the break in properly??? and did you get their billet flywheel with it??

 

aluminum flywheel, first clutch literally melted on second pass at dragstrip, Spec was very good and replaced, second clutch had much better driving manners (no chatter, no noise, no bucking) from day one but similar result at track. I launch rather conservatively at 4000 to 4500 on BFG 18in DR...60ft normally mid 1.7s...Spec suggested i must be slipping clutch but that is not the case i side step dump and go....

 

Seems like you have another problem that will tear apart any clutch you install.

 

....please explain?

 

Yep, I agree with others. One clutch failure is likely, but not two of the same brand new ones.

I'm guessing it's something to do with hydraulics and engagement causing too much heat and the melting of the clutch.

 

As I have always understood it a lightweight flywheel like an aluminum one isn't all that good for a dragstrip launch. As it was explained to me there isn't enough weight in the flywheel so when you let out on the clutch hard and fast with some RMP's there isn't enuogh force/weight to get the car moving on a hard launch. So when the car doesn't move then the next thing in line to move/slip is the clutch. Therefore you have a stinky smoked clutch problem.

 

I was always told the rpms drop too fast between shifts with a lighter flywheel, it wouldnt cause the clutch itself to burn up.

A Star Spec 3 is supposed to be good for 600 rwhp.

 

Don't think its the flywheel (did you have it resurfaced between clutches?) . You may have faulty hydrolics.

 

new slave each install plus full replacement of all clutch components (pressure plate/disc/etc)....Spec has been very cooperative and advising as to which clutch from the very start...frustrating for all...but i still need to know what new clutch will best match-up?

 

Everyone would be recommending the Star Spec 3. You have other issues with that car, going with a stronger clutch isn't the answer. The pedal pressure is gonna be harder, you'll probaly have chatter and it wont be as comfortable. Your patching the issue, if the patch even works by going with something stronger.

 

what would be hydraulic solution? do i need to go to a full upgrade of hydraulics? Most other ZO6s using Spec3 keep stock hydraulics, C5s using Spec2 or 3 commonly upgrade to the ZO6 hydraulics...Spec themselves recommend stock ZO6 hydraulics.

 

Have you checked for air in the lines or discoloring of the fluid?

 

[QUOTE=C5 CU]what would be hydraulic solution? do i need to go to a full upgrade of hydraulics? Most other ZO6s using Spec3 keep stock hydraulics, C5s using Spec2 or 3 commonly upgrade to the ZO6 hydraulics...Spec themselves recommend stock ZO6 hydraulics....But i will question speedshop about hydraulics and what they recommend changing up to.

 

fluid replaced both times...

 

...interesting replies, several days ago i posted on a Corvette forum and mostly got responses about how their Spec3 had failed also, or for me to install the RAM 910 or McLeod twin...i posted on this forum to get more "technical suggestions" of what might have gone wrong...and this Forum has been what i was hoping for...but i also think there must be a difference between the F-Body Spec3 clutch and the Corvette Spec3 clutch, i just don't hear anyone from F-Body world pointing out their Spec failures vs on the C5 side i had a small army whinning with me...lots of Spec failures or drivability issues???? Is there a difference and if so why does F-Body Spec hold together better?

 

There shouldn't be any difference at all. The ONLY difference with installing ANY clutch on the C5 vs F-body is the weights in the flywheel.

On the C5 you must do two things:
1) You MUST reinstall the flywheel in the same position that it was removed. If installinga new flywheel, make sure it's oriented the same way the old one came off.
2) You MUST take the flywheel weights from the old flywheel and install them in the EXACT spot on the new flywheel. The new flywheel should have no weights in it from the get go so just put the weights from the stock flywheel into the new flywheel in the same location

This MUST be done b/c the C5 LS1 motors are balanced by the weights in the flywheel after they are installed in the C5. This gives them smoother operation and a better feel compared to the F-body LS1 engine.

However, I don't think this would cause your problems. Mainly, if you dont' do this you run the risk of getting unwanted vibrations in the car at certain speeds. If you get this, you'll more than likely have to have a GM service tech come down and rebalance the car with lots of special equipment.

 

How do you like that aluminum Flywheel? Do Z06's come stock with an aluminum one? Noticable difference in acceleration? Brand? Sorry to jump off topic, but I was trying to find who had one on their car. Thanks.

 

I'm a little late on this quote but how do you break them in properly? I'm about to purchase a spec stage 3 myself in a week or so.

 

Spec recommends 500 miles with some stop and go.

back to thread...what hydraulic changes would you recommend? (slave and fluids repaced each time).

If going to Ram 910 or McLeod single or twin do they need any hydraulics upgrade? ... i understand twin need adjustable master otherwise clutch ingagement is at top of pedal travel?