Monster clutch and tick master review
05-04-2012, 11:34 PM
#22
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i DD a stage 4 with the tick MC and im barely 130lbs, give it some time its not that bad. you'll be used to it by the time you change it out, just shift fast whats the big deal?
05-06-2012, 10:44 PM
#25
I installed a tick master in my car a few months after I got it and ran it with the stock clutch for several months. The pedal effort increased with the tick master but it wasn't bad at all. A few months later, I decided to replace my clutch and have my trans rebuilt, and I put a Monster Stage 2 in it. Like the original poster in this thread, I hated it. When I pressed the clutch in I was picking up the left half of my body. The pedal effort was way too much for a daily driven street car. I commute 80 miles daily and the bottom of my foot and my knee would be killing me by the time I got to work or back home. I pulled the monster level 2 out due to this and it chattering so hard I thought my dash was going to fall off. I put a LS7 clutch in it, kept the tick master and the car drives like it should now. Smooth engagement, it holds the power and pedal effort is about like the stock clutch was with the tick master.
05-06-2012, 10:54 PM
#26
this **** made me lauph but common seriously? I ruun a lvl 3 monster and tick in my T/A and i can tell you the setup is one of the less stiff ones you can get for soemthing that will hold damn near 600tq.
if you got a stock car and you wanted it to feel like stock you shoulda put stock **** back in it.
if you got a stock car and you wanted it to feel like stock you shoulda put stock **** back in it.
05-07-2012, 09:43 AM
#27
Just wanted to share this information with those of you that may be in the market for a new clutch and or master. I took advantage of the $100.00 off Tick Performance sale had on Monster clutches last month. I read several reviews (mostly all great) and spoke to Chris direct for a decent amount of time about what clutch and new master would best suite my application. In the end I went with a stage 2 and a new tick master and slave unit. I was told over and over by Chris himself that the stage 2 with their master cylinder would drive almost like stock. 5% stiffer to quote his exact words. Well last week I installed everything and the outcome wasn't remotely close to what Chris said it would be. The pedal is so stiff that after a short while driving the car my leg feels like it had been hit with a bat. I called monster and spoke directly to them about it and they said it wasn't their clutch making it so stiff, it was the Tick master. He said add another 12-15% over the factory GM master along with roughly another 5% with the stage 2 clutch. I mentioned to him that Chris failed to mention this to me and he went on to explain that Chris should have passed that info along and his only thoughts as to why he didn't is because he is fairly new at Tick Performance. He also mentioned I wasn't the first person to have called with this complaint and that he was going to message Chris personally and explain to him that he needs to pass this info along to the consumer.
Long story short, I would have never bought the Tick master if I had known this information before hand. So I've basically wasted over $150 on a master and I'm currently stuck driving a car with a stiff *** clutch until I can afford to buy and replace the Tick with a new GM master. Just wanted to share this for those who may be in the market.
Long story short, I would have never bought the Tick master if I had known this information before hand. So I've basically wasted over $150 on a master and I'm currently stuck driving a car with a stiff *** clutch until I can afford to buy and replace the Tick with a new GM master. Just wanted to share this for those who may be in the market.
. I feel as though I explained the clutch and hydraulics to you properly. As with any upgraded performance clutch and hydraulics such as ours, there is going to be a difference in pedal pressure. I do not feel as though it should be a stiff as you have commented. The 5%-10% is a range of what the average person precieves it to be, there is no defined answer as to what it will do. I will suggest that you check everything to make sure it was installed properly and double check your measurements to insure your monster didnt need a shim. After clutch break in the clutch will become a little less stiff as it wears.
05-07-2012, 10:39 AM
#28
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I have a spec 3+ and the tick m/c. It's not that bad when u get use to it. Mine is stiffer than stock for sure but i like it. I would just give it some time u may like it.
05-07-2012, 07:42 PM
#29
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I dont get why it would be sooooo stiff that its irritated you to the point to post it. If you've ever driven a 03-04 Cobra with an aftermarket clutch, lol thats a joke. As mentioned above give it some time maybe you will get use to it. Im about to do the same install that you've done and many others have as well, its just something that you have to probably get use to thats all.
05-08-2012, 11:47 AM
#30
i got a Tick MC & stock Slave replacement about 3 - 4 weeks ago, and there's absolutely no way that it's 12% - 15% harder to push than the stock MC on my car (at least not on the stock clutch)....i'd say about 3% - 5% at most.
i've also got a Monster Level 2 clutch setup with the lighter aluminum flywheel, but i haven't had a chance to get them put in yet.....but unless something isn't set up right, i can't see any way that it would be 12% - 15% firmer than stock, even with both combined.
then again, the "percentage" of firmness increase is very subjective, as it is not only the actual firmness increase that matters, but also the weight/strength of the person pushing it.
i'd bet that when these companies specify a particular "percentage" increase in firmness, it's measured using a machine that is firmly mounted in place (and therefore, has no way to move except in the direction it is testing), and they are measuring a specific set torque level needed to move the part. however, when you throw in the "human factor", things change. different people weigh different amounts, and have different levels of strength, which is going to affect the "perceived percentage" of firmness increase.
what this means is that what may "feel" like only 5% increase to someone weighing 200lbs and strong legs may actually feel more like 10% - 15% to someone weighing 150lbs with weak legs.
there really is no way to account for every single weight/strength combination out there, so they can only test via a repeatable method using numbers that never change (i.e., clutch "A" takes 30ft. lbs. of torque to move, vs. clutch "B" which takes 45ft. lbs of torque to move). how that torque is applied is dependent upon the person applying it (i.e., YOU), so don't blame the seller or the manufacturer for that.
oh yeah....and maybe do some research beforehand to get a larger representative view of the subject matter, instead of taking one person's word on it.
i've also got a Monster Level 2 clutch setup with the lighter aluminum flywheel, but i haven't had a chance to get them put in yet.....but unless something isn't set up right, i can't see any way that it would be 12% - 15% firmer than stock, even with both combined.
then again, the "percentage" of firmness increase is very subjective, as it is not only the actual firmness increase that matters, but also the weight/strength of the person pushing it.
i'd bet that when these companies specify a particular "percentage" increase in firmness, it's measured using a machine that is firmly mounted in place (and therefore, has no way to move except in the direction it is testing), and they are measuring a specific set torque level needed to move the part. however, when you throw in the "human factor", things change. different people weigh different amounts, and have different levels of strength, which is going to affect the "perceived percentage" of firmness increase.
what this means is that what may "feel" like only 5% increase to someone weighing 200lbs and strong legs may actually feel more like 10% - 15% to someone weighing 150lbs with weak legs.
there really is no way to account for every single weight/strength combination out there, so they can only test via a repeatable method using numbers that never change (i.e., clutch "A" takes 30ft. lbs. of torque to move, vs. clutch "B" which takes 45ft. lbs of torque to move). how that torque is applied is dependent upon the person applying it (i.e., YOU), so don't blame the seller or the manufacturer for that.
oh yeah....and maybe do some research beforehand to get a larger representative view of the subject matter, instead of taking one person's word on it.
05-08-2012, 11:59 AM
#31
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i also took advantage of the tick/monster sale that was going on. the clutch is not heavy at all.. i daily drive my ws6 in stop and go traffic on my drive to work everyday. if you think this setup is hard on your leg you really need to use the vagisil advice.
05-08-2012, 09:34 PM
#34
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as mentioned above the 5%-10% is a matter of personal feel, If you are unhappy with the result of your swap I'm sure you will be able to sell your setup and switch to something that suits you better. As you can tell by the replies of happy costumers, i don't think this is an issue of false claims or advertising. There product just doesn't suit your personal preference.
05-08-2012, 09:35 PM
#35
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How is there 2 pages of posts and no one has mentioned or suggested he remove the clutch pedal spring? There is a spring on the pedal assembly you can remove that will help the situation. I'm also 5'7" and 160 and can drive forever with my monster stage 3 and tick master.
05-08-2012, 10:45 PM
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How is there 2 pages of posts and no one has mentioned or suggested he remove the clutch pedal spring? There is a spring on the pedal assembly you can remove that will help the situation. I'm also 5'7" and 160 and can drive forever with my monster stage 3 and tick master.
I'm more inclined to wonder if there was some kind of install problem or problem with either the monster clutch or the tick master he purchased. While pedal feel is subjective, it seems a bit extreme for a bunch of guys on here (that appear to vary in strength and size based on the comments) to say that it's so light they barely noticed a difference and then one person to feel like the pedal is so heavy they have no choice but to start looking for a different master/clutch. That sounds to me like something is wrong.
OP, do yourself a favor and do NOT go back to the GM master cylinder. I just did the swap to a Tick Master myself a few weeks ago and any HUGE difference in pedal pressure shouldn't be from that. It was stiffer initially, sure, but it literally took me driving it and then going to sleep for the night and then waking up and it was my "new normal." Shifting gears in a car is very much a muscle memory thing and it does take a little re-programming of what you are used to any time it changes. Even if it is a little stiffer, the whole reason you bought a monster clutch and a tick master is so that you can drive your LS1 the way most of us want to drive them - to it's full potential. Would you really rather have a master that causes you a bunch of shifting problems at WOT? If you didn't care anything about driving the car fast, I would imagine you would have just done a replacement stock clutch. I think you made the right decision the first time. Any chance there could be an install/product issue?
Last edited by Onyx_Black_Z28; 06-14-2020 at 07:02 PM.
