V-seriesTech

iTrader: (5)

Ok, so i am pretty much a little bit stressed. Long story short, I just did a major rebuild on my car, new engine, fuel, etc....unknown power at this time but if I was a guessing man, i'd say over 1K wheel. Before I was at 780+rwhp. With the 780 setup, I was using my Textralia EXOSKEL twin disc,...to me, at that time, with that power, it was the best clutch I have used to date....(RAM VDS-SPUN-SPEC III came apart and totaled car)..etc.

Now, I installed everything,..noticed that I do have SOME shutter like feeling, when initially leaving the line, under normal operation, no hard launch, just leaving a green light so to speak. I also notice the same shutter feeling when I am putting the car on a trailer, like when it is on the incline, going up the trailer, it will shutter with the load of engine, and the weight of the car.

Now, doing some WOT pulls, or, lets say 75-80% WOT pulls, I am getting a MAJOR shuttering feeling in the vehicle. Dramatic feeling, as if your going over a million whoopty do's. The moment I lift, the sensation is gone. I smell no clutch related smell that I am noticing, I do have fluid in my reservoir...so I dunno.

Only thing I have changed in the drivetrain other then engine, is control arm bushings(solid).


I do have ANOTHER exoskel, that was given to me, friend said it needed one disc, why, I do not know but, I do have another one here. I truthfully can't afford another cost to the vehicle right now, especially like an expensive clutch.

Any insight to what is happening here? Is something not tight, is the clutch slipping?... Can it be rebuilt, or upgraded?

I am more then dissapointed, as I finally got the money for the dyno time,..and the date(this saturday)....and now, I had to cancel it.

Your wisdom, is greatly appreciated.

ghost-1

iTrader: (4)

I am assuming you have a corvette? If you do did you rebuild/replace anything inside the tq tube? I had a problem with vibration and destroying pilot bearings. I found that the runout on the d/s was .23 I had to rotate the front input shaft 180 to get it to .3 and have not had a problem since the fix.

V-seriesTech

iTrader: (5)

Yeah my bad man. Ment to say that. 00 C5...I just read your vibration issue post. Makes sense. Glad that worked out. I hope mine is something like that.

I do indeed, have the billet/solid driveshaft couplers in the TQ-tube. I hadthem before on the stock bottom end setup(old). I did notice a mild vibration increase with that(changed to those because my stock TQ-tube sheered off the bolts at the end of the shaft(back end). But, that vibration was nothing like this. Possible to be related, maybe. But, what I am feeling,...is like the sensation you have when your bicycle chain is skipping gear teeth....like if you were on a rollercoaster,...that was on that slow, chain driven climb up to the tallest peak....then the chain starts to skip..passenger would feel that...big time.

Thats my best discription to what I actually feel is going on with the car.

For what it is worth, I did have a hard time for some reason, getting the input shaft to line up with the engine, this time around. I have installed and removed many drivetrains from Y bodies,..and I haven't had a hard time like this, since my first Y body drivetrain removal ever. It just didn't want to go in...would always be short. eventually, removed and removed, it went in WITHOUT any effort all of a sudden.

Did you replace your coulpers with a poly one now?

Thanks for your input man.

ghost-1

iTrader: (4)

My issue was at idle and wot def more noticable at wot. The input shaft was also a pain for me to install when the runout was bad. I removed the drivetrain many times and the pilot bearing was not always destroyed but I still replaced it everytime. I have a carbon shaft with both solid couplers we took the ds out put it on a balance machine and checked the runout on the shout and further down the input shaft. We had to rotate the input shaft 2 times untill we got the .3 After doing this the input shaft slid right in and there is no vibration at all. I say check it to be sure mine lasted 5k before it first started vibrating. Also check the tq on the flywheel bolts, replace the pilot bushing and the front oring in the tq tube it helps hold the bearing tight.

ghost-1

iTrader: (4)

Also has that clutch ever been balanced?

V-seriesTech

iTrader: (5)

VERY interesting. I have no choice but to try that.


No, not that I am aware of.

Does anyone do a triple disc upgrade to these? Currently? I'll search. Just figured I have the extra disc's..(another kit). ..and if I have to take it out and possibly have inspected. I dunno. At this point,..no choice but to further invest in what I have.

Thanks for your insight.

ghost-1

iTrader: (4)

Yes rps has a tripple alot of guys use. All you are balancing though is the pressure plate and flywheel. I would have that checked just for good measures never hurts to be sure. It sucks taking the car apart so many times so I would rip it apart and check every detail so that you wont be dealing with it like I did.

Mike@Diablosport

iTrader: (2)

Bump for ya...

Hoping there is a runout issue

1CAMWNDR

iTrader: (21)

My F-Body Exo-Skel is slipping now and shudders the whole car like you describe. Seems like uncontrolable wheel hop. When this shudder happens to your 'vette do the rpms run up and the car only mildly accelerate? Sounds like the clutch is going to me. Mine works fine up until about 50% throttle in 3rd, 4th, 5th, and 6th gears. First and second must not put enough load on the engine---or it just revs through them to fast.
I am also having a hard time coming up with the cash for another clutch .

ghost-1

iTrader: (4)

If the runout is bad it can cause the disc's to hang on the shaft also. Not saying that is what is going on in either case just what happened to me.

1CAMWNDR

iTrader: (21)

I see. Mine has been in for some 20,000 miles and only started this after the engine swap. Would runout be changed going from an LS1 to an LQ4 block?

ghost-1

iTrader: (4)

I am assuming you do not have a vette? I think the bell housing's mount the same if you have 20K on a clutch did you have it resurfaced, balance checked?

Edit: did you replace the pilot bearing when you did the swap?

ghost-1

iTrader: (4)

any updates guy's?

1CAMWNDR

iTrader: (21)

F-Body. No, the clutch was not serviced when the engine was replaced 3 years ago. New Compstar crank with new pilot bearing.

ghost-1

iTrader: (4)

So you just reinstalled the engine and this happened? Or you did the swap 3 years ago have been driving it and this started? If it has been 20k from the swap and this just started the clutch is probably on its way out.

1CAMWNDR

iTrader: (21)

20K since clutch install. 3 years and @15K miles since engine swap. shaking problem started just a few months ago and I thought it was wheel hop. Then I noticed an obvious slip 4 weeks ago---engine rpm rises and car does not accelerate. I also think the clutch is on its last leg. I can't afford another twin right now so I am just gonna get a Monster Stage II with slave, release bearing and new pilot bearing. I am selling my race wheels and tires to help offset the cost so the tires will spin before the clutch gets loaded beyond its rating.

ghost-1

iTrader: (4)

I dont know how much you have to spend but I have an rps twin that just needs disc's I had it resufaced and balanced already. I dont know what the price is on new disc's but I would send you the pp/flywheel for the shipping cost since it is just sitting on a shelf.

1CAMWNDR

iTrader: (21)

Thanks, but I just ordered a Monster Stage II kit.

ghost-1

iTrader: (4)

Wondering if you got to tear into the car yet?

V-seriesTech

iTrader: (5)

Sorry guys....been a little depressed about this ****. I don't have the free time like I used to. Im trying to set time aside this weekend to drop drivetrain and inspect.

I hope to have it figured out then. Until then,....whiskey it is.