new synchro problem
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 12
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From: Santa Barbara CA
new synchro problem Ok i just put back together my 6 speed and used a tick stage 2 with new 1/2 3/4 synchro assembles. It will not go into 1/2 gear on the bench. I even filled it with fluid and spun it for a bit. I am 95% sure that i have the forks and linkages right.
My question is it at all normal for the 1/2 new assembles to be really hard to get in gear?
My question is it at all normal for the 1/2 new assembles to be really hard to get in gear?
My 1-2 was pretty hard to get into gear. In comparison, the 3-4 and 5-6 would almost fall into gear on their own with just gravity. Can you slide it by hand without using the fork/rail? It's harder to line up the 1-2 teeth than the others.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Apr 2012
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From: Santa Barbara CA
When i put the main case on i used a punch to move all the forks before putting everything together. I was not able to move 1/2 so that it would "click" into gear. I pulled the main shaft out from the case and checked to see if it would engage by hand. I couldn't, but i could see all the keys and springs (this is brand new) were there and i could slide it both ways a few cm. So i put it back thinking that once i had the leverage of the shifter to aid the fork it would move. Not so.
Were the notches in the blocker rings lined up with the synchro keys during assembly? You should have been able to engage the slider by hand without the case, and with the punch in the rail after the case was assembled.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Apr 2012
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From: Santa Barbara CA
I assumed they were since it came assembled from tick. I feel like a sucker for not checking now.
But if the keys were not lined up on the notches wouldn't it still slide stiffly and just not "click" in and out?
But if the keys were not lined up on the notches wouldn't it still slide stiffly and just not "click" in and out?
The notches in the blocker rings aren't parts of the synchro assembly. It's up to you to assembly them correctly. The syncho sleeve should have a "Y" stamped in it which corresponds to a groove for the keys, so you can check without disassembling it.
Try spinning the gear teeth and blocker rings by hand and getting all of the teeth lined up before sliding the syncho. It won't slide easily or at all unless they are lined up.
Try spinning the gear teeth and blocker rings by hand and getting all of the teeth lined up before sliding the syncho. It won't slide easily or at all unless they are lined up.
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http://www.eecis.udel.edu/~davis/z28...028_large.html
The key notches are on the metal ring of the blocker, your pic shows the inner friction ring that engages the gear.
The key notches are on the metal ring of the blocker, your pic shows the inner friction ring that engages the gear.
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Teching In
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 12
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From: Santa Barbara CA
oh ok. yeah so i tore the whole thing down today and i had indeed put it together correctly. The culprit appeared to be this crap in the new synchro assembly. It was almost like lock-tight, man am i not happy about this, Tick is gettin a call tomorrow for sure.
I cleaned it out after 10min with a wire brush, but its still extremely hard to shift.
I don't understand whats with the billet keys not looking at all like the oem ones? Why are they not like the rest of the keys (even the billet 3/4 ones)?
I cleaned it out after 10min with a wire brush, but its still extremely hard to shift.
I don't understand whats with the billet keys not looking at all like the oem ones? Why are they not like the rest of the keys (even the billet 3/4 ones)?
Another thing to check is that you got the right 1-2 billet keys. I think the Z06 ones have a "hump" on each end which prevent them from sliding in the f-body synchros. The humps need to be ground off. I got my billet 1-2 keys from the gear box. They had humps but were thinner overall so they still worked.
I would ask Tick what they sent you.
Here is a thread. Do a search and you will find some more.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...llet-keys.html
I would ask Tick what they sent you.
Here is a thread. Do a search and you will find some more.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...llet-keys.html
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 12
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From: Santa Barbara CA
I took this picture of the 1/2 keys i was given. It has "humps" on the end unlike the stockers. Looks like the zo6 type key to me....
Tick is just telling me its not there fault and it must of come from the supplier wrong.....like no monkey ever put the wrong part in the box! I'm pissed because i just spent 3 days of my time and built my tranny twice because someone F'd up. Well at least their tranny guy was helpful....
BE FOREWARNED- Check your synchro assemblies for these devils before install!
Tick is just telling me its not there fault and it must of come from the supplier wrong.....like no monkey ever put the wrong part in the box! I'm pissed because i just spent 3 days of my time and built my tranny twice because someone F'd up. Well at least their tranny guy was helpful....
BE FOREWARNED- Check your synchro assemblies for these devils before install!
Last edited by 71_dramaqueen; May 23, 2012 at 05:02 PM.
I took this picture of the 1/2 keys i was given. It has "humps" on the end unlike the stockers. Looks like the zo6 type key to me....
Tick is just telling me its not there fault and it must of come from the supplier wrong.....like no monkey ever put the wrong part in the box! I'm pissed because i just spent 3 days of my time and built my tranny twice because someone F'd up. Well at least their tranny guy was helpful....
BE FOREWARNED- Check your synchro assemblies for these devils before install!
Tick is just telling me its not there fault and it must of come from the supplier wrong.....like no monkey ever put the wrong part in the box! I'm pissed because i just spent 3 days of my time and built my tranny twice because someone F'd up. Well at least their tranny guy was helpful....
BE FOREWARNED- Check your synchro assemblies for these devils before install!
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
From: Santa Barbara CA
Not with the stock f body synchro assembly you didn't. It would break the forks before it would go into gear with those. Even Tick said I had to grind the ends down to use them on an F body. Seems to be shifting fine now, took it in an Autocross Saturday without problem.
Not with the stock f body synchro assembly you didn't. It would break the forks before it would go into gear with those. Even Tick said I had to grind the ends down to use them on an F body. Seems to be shifting fine now, took it in an Autocross Saturday without problem.
Can't argue with that.
Your sig lists a cts-v, but no f-body.. The listed/shown keys are OEM for late model triple cone synchros, not aftermarket billet keys.. The OEM late model solid keys wont work on earlier double cone synchros like the fbody.
Your sig lists a cts-v, but no f-body.. The listed/shown keys are OEM for late model triple cone synchros, not aftermarket billet keys.. The OEM late model solid keys wont work on earlier double cone synchros like the fbody.
I had 2 F-bodys for the last 12 years. Just got the CTS-V
Last edited by 9t8z28; May 30, 2012 at 11:39 AM.
Well Ive had all 3 transmissions apart and the keys are the same length. It sounds like you havent had both apart to know the difference. Im not goin back and forth with you or anyone anymore. All i stated was i installed it and it worked flawless and shifted like butter.