Monster race clutch/Tick master-pedal problem
06-01-2012, 05:15 PM
#1
Monster race clutch/Tick master-pedal problem Short story for preview - Pedal sticks to floor when clutch is heated.
Long story=
I had a Ram VDS clutch installed along with my Tick master. Worked great until I eventually toasted the clutch. I took it out and installed a Monster stage 1 race clutch package (rated 850/850) with billet steel FW that I was saving for a different car. Adjusted the master accordingly and put the 500 break in miles on. Everything seemed ok untli I went racing.
Did a burnout to heat the DRs but when the bulbs dropped and I launched the pedal wouldn't return at high rpm after the 1-2 shift (6800ish rpm). After the rpms dropped by about 1000 the pedal would spring back and clutch engaged. Did this on subsequent gear changes on the run and the two runs after that.
Bled the fluid completely and tried again at a street spot. Same deal.
Changed the slave again, same deal.
Bled fluid completely a few more times, each time with the same results.
It shifts ok in normal driving but the pedal doesn't return at high rpm whenever the clutch is heated.
I'd hate to change the slave again just to have the same results. Does anyone have any ideas as to what I should look for when I pull the trans? It seems like a hydro issue to me. Would the Ram clutch being all burnt up hurt the Tick master? I called Tick last Friday but never got a call back. I know they are moving and I don't have time for phone tag so I'm asking you guys for ideas.
I AM NOT PLACING ANY BLAME HERE, just trying to get ideas of what weird **** I should maybe look for when I pull the clutch. I have done a lot of clutch swaps so it's not my bleeding procedure. I have over 1k miles on it now and it's not getting better. BTW, no shim installed just what came with the Monster clutch kit. I also tried two different transmissions, a built GTO spec trans and a Pro-Shifted F body spec trans, obviously same results. Thanks in advance for any ideas.
Long story=
I had a Ram VDS clutch installed along with my Tick master. Worked great until I eventually toasted the clutch. I took it out and installed a Monster stage 1 race clutch package (rated 850/850) with billet steel FW that I was saving for a different car. Adjusted the master accordingly and put the 500 break in miles on. Everything seemed ok untli I went racing.
Did a burnout to heat the DRs but when the bulbs dropped and I launched the pedal wouldn't return at high rpm after the 1-2 shift (6800ish rpm). After the rpms dropped by about 1000 the pedal would spring back and clutch engaged. Did this on subsequent gear changes on the run and the two runs after that.
Bled the fluid completely and tried again at a street spot. Same deal.
Changed the slave again, same deal.
Bled fluid completely a few more times, each time with the same results.
It shifts ok in normal driving but the pedal doesn't return at high rpm whenever the clutch is heated.
I'd hate to change the slave again just to have the same results. Does anyone have any ideas as to what I should look for when I pull the trans? It seems like a hydro issue to me. Would the Ram clutch being all burnt up hurt the Tick master? I called Tick last Friday but never got a call back. I know they are moving and I don't have time for phone tag so I'm asking you guys for ideas.
I AM NOT PLACING ANY BLAME HERE, just trying to get ideas of what weird **** I should maybe look for when I pull the clutch. I have done a lot of clutch swaps so it's not my bleeding procedure. I have over 1k miles on it now and it's not getting better. BTW, no shim installed just what came with the Monster clutch kit. I also tried two different transmissions, a built GTO spec trans and a Pro-Shifted F body spec trans, obviously same results. Thanks in advance for any ideas.
06-02-2012, 02:19 PM
#2
Short story for preview - Pedal sticks to floor when clutch is heated.
Long story=
I had a Ram VDS clutch installed along with my Tick master. Worked great until I eventually toasted the clutch. I took it out and installed a Monster stage 1 race clutch package (rated 850/850) with billet steel FW that I was saving for a different car. Adjusted the master accordingly and put the 500 break in miles on. Everything seemed ok untli I went racing.
Did a burnout to heat the DRs but when the bulbs dropped and I launched the pedal wouldn't return at high rpm after the 1-2 shift (6800ish rpm). After the rpms dropped by about 1000 the pedal would spring back and clutch engaged. Did this on subsequent gear changes on the run and the two runs after that.
Bled the fluid completely and tried again at a street spot. Same deal.
Changed the slave again, same deal.
Bled fluid completely a few more times, each time with the same results.
It shifts ok in normal driving but the pedal doesn't return at high rpm whenever the clutch is heated.
I'd hate to change the slave again just to have the same results. Does anyone have any ideas as to what I should look for when I pull the trans? It seems like a hydro issue to me. Would the Ram clutch being all burnt up hurt the Tick master? I called Tick last Friday but never got a call back. I know they are moving and I don't have time for phone tag so I'm asking you guys for ideas.
I AM NOT PLACING ANY BLAME HERE, just trying to get ideas of what weird **** I should maybe look for when I pull the clutch. I have done a lot of clutch swaps so it's not my bleeding procedure. I have over 1k miles on it now and it's not getting better. BTW, no shim installed just what came with the Monster clutch kit. I also tried two different transmissions, a built GTO spec trans and a Pro-Shifted F body spec trans, obviously same results. Thanks in advance for any ideas.
Long story=
I had a Ram VDS clutch installed along with my Tick master. Worked great until I eventually toasted the clutch. I took it out and installed a Monster stage 1 race clutch package (rated 850/850) with billet steel FW that I was saving for a different car. Adjusted the master accordingly and put the 500 break in miles on. Everything seemed ok untli I went racing.
Did a burnout to heat the DRs but when the bulbs dropped and I launched the pedal wouldn't return at high rpm after the 1-2 shift (6800ish rpm). After the rpms dropped by about 1000 the pedal would spring back and clutch engaged. Did this on subsequent gear changes on the run and the two runs after that.
Bled the fluid completely and tried again at a street spot. Same deal.
Changed the slave again, same deal.
Bled fluid completely a few more times, each time with the same results.
It shifts ok in normal driving but the pedal doesn't return at high rpm whenever the clutch is heated.
I'd hate to change the slave again just to have the same results. Does anyone have any ideas as to what I should look for when I pull the trans? It seems like a hydro issue to me. Would the Ram clutch being all burnt up hurt the Tick master? I called Tick last Friday but never got a call back. I know they are moving and I don't have time for phone tag so I'm asking you guys for ideas.
I AM NOT PLACING ANY BLAME HERE, just trying to get ideas of what weird **** I should maybe look for when I pull the clutch. I have done a lot of clutch swaps so it's not my bleeding procedure. I have over 1k miles on it now and it's not getting better. BTW, no shim installed just what came with the Monster clutch kit. I also tried two different transmissions, a built GTO spec trans and a Pro-Shifted F body spec trans, obviously same results. Thanks in advance for any ideas.
The issue you're having is the throw of the hydraulics is over-centering the pressure plate causing it to not want to come back. Give me a call and we'll walk you through the adjustment.
06-02-2012, 09:44 PM
#3
Interesting. I adjusted the pedal just enough that the car wouldn't move on a level surface with the pedal depressed and the car a 6.8k rpm. I'm also curious as to why it is more prevalent when there is heat in the system (after a burnout or after a couple gear changes). I guess anything is possible so I will give you a call on Moday. Thanks for the reply.
