Super T10 popping out of 4th gear
06-04-2012, 10:33 AM
#1
Super T10 popping out of 4th gear It's official, I'm an idiot.....I rebbuilt and didn't put in torque lock sliders.
I rebuilt an 82 f body super T10 (3.42 1st gear) that I was doing some experimenting with. I'm mating it to an LSx engine and adding a vehicle speed sensor for the ecu.
Anyway I got this thing apart and all the gears, sliders, teeth, etc. looked good so I just replaced the synchros, bearings, seals. Now I've had it pop out of 4th a couple times.
Like I said, the teeth and sliders looked pretty good. And I thought later T10s had an improved slider design, less likely to pop out of gear. I zeroed in the bell housing and the front bearing and countershaft were tight. As far as I know, there's no way to shim the input shaft back, and it was tight on the front snapring. Likewise on the mainshaft/midplate.
The only thing I screwed up was losing the orientation of the forks, but there wasn't much play and only the normal end wear.
I've heard of stronger springs for the detent ball in muncies, is the same available for Super T10s?
So I'm going to order some torque lock slides, new forks, and seals. The input shafts are pricey on T10s, so I probably would scrap the $100 trans if that's the issue.
So question is, is there anything else I should consider checking?
Pic of trans.
And gears before rebuild:
And in case anyone is interested. You can run a VSS off the 39 tooth reverse gear.
And a modified Hurst shifer/speedo output:
I rebuilt an 82 f body super T10 (3.42 1st gear) that I was doing some experimenting with. I'm mating it to an LSx engine and adding a vehicle speed sensor for the ecu.
Anyway I got this thing apart and all the gears, sliders, teeth, etc. looked good so I just replaced the synchros, bearings, seals. Now I've had it pop out of 4th a couple times.
Like I said, the teeth and sliders looked pretty good. And I thought later T10s had an improved slider design, less likely to pop out of gear. I zeroed in the bell housing and the front bearing and countershaft were tight. As far as I know, there's no way to shim the input shaft back, and it was tight on the front snapring. Likewise on the mainshaft/midplate.
The only thing I screwed up was losing the orientation of the forks, but there wasn't much play and only the normal end wear.
I've heard of stronger springs for the detent ball in muncies, is the same available for Super T10s?
So I'm going to order some torque lock slides, new forks, and seals. The input shafts are pricey on T10s, so I probably would scrap the $100 trans if that's the issue.
So question is, is there anything else I should consider checking?
Pic of trans.
And gears before rebuild:
And in case anyone is interested. You can run a VSS off the 39 tooth reverse gear.
And a modified Hurst shifer/speedo output:
06-19-2012, 06:32 AM
#4
Just an update, I got the torque lock sliders put in, but the old ones didn't look that bad. The only noticable wear was at where the 3 sprung keys ride (one centered in the photo). When I reassembled I know I did not line up the keys in their original position on the slider.
The teeth and dogs on all the gears looked good. Anything else I should check befor putting back in the car? I'm adding cruise control so it's important it doesn't pop out of 4th.
Also, I didn't replace the forks, wear was negligable.
The teeth and dogs on all the gears looked good. Anything else I should check befor putting back in the car? I'm adding cruise control so it's important it doesn't pop out of 4th.
Also, I didn't replace the forks, wear was negligable.
