do i need a new slave cylinder?
07-17-2012, 08:27 PM
#1
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do i need a new slave cylinder? so i bought a F1 Racing Stage 2 clutch for my 2000 camaro z28 a while back and left the master and slave cylinders alone and ive been driving it and it seemed just fine for the longest time. ive put 10,000 miles on the new clutch and the car has 140,000 itself. recently ive noticed when i floor it or even normal drive it every once and a while it seems to return to its position rather slow after taking my foot off and it feels like it doesnt want to come back up sometimes (because that was my original problem was it wouldnt come back up at all and thats why i bought the F1 clutch) but it will come back just delayed from what it should. pretty sure it might be the slave cylinder but is there a chance it could be the master cylinder? i havent noticed any fluid on firewall (master) but i think i do see some fluid on the bottom of the bell housing (slave).
PS: i currently use autozone "premium" clutch fluid and i change it about every 2 weeks when the fluid gets dark and i was told to use dot3 brake fluid and maybe even dot4 because supposedly dot4 is thicker
before going to replace the slave cylinder.
let me know what you guys think, suggestions are greatly appreciated.
PS: i currently use autozone "premium" clutch fluid and i change it about every 2 weeks when the fluid gets dark and i was told to use dot3 brake fluid and maybe even dot4 because supposedly dot4 is thicker
before going to replace the slave cylinder. let me know what you guys think, suggestions are greatly appreciated.
07-18-2012, 11:41 AM
#2
I have had the same problem for the last 4 years I've owned my car. Pedal has always been slow to come back up during normal driving. And if you floor it on the freeway and bang some gears at 6k rpms the pedal sticks to the floor and it's hard to get it into the next gear.
I read all the stickies here on LS1tech, I reseached hundreds and hundreds of threads. I bled my hydraulic system every way you can think of, every method I could find. I did the mity vac, I tried Dot 3, I tried Dot 4, I tried Dot 3/4 even 5.1. I then replaced my slave. Dropped the tranny, replaced the slave...still the same symptoms. Then I bought a new master cylinder...still the same thing. Then I took out the master and did the drill mod, still the same thing. No leaks in the hydrualic system, I'm not loosing fluid, fluid is brand new most of the time.
The only thing I can think of is that the self adjusting pressure plate in my stock LS1 clutch assembly is worn out/bad and is just soft and laggy. One day when I am in a better position I want to buy a Monster stage 1 or 2 clutch and see if that cures it. I would say the same could be said for you but you already said you put a different clutch in it and are having the same problem.
From what I understand, when you push your clutch pedal in, the throwout bearing is pushed out against the splines of the pressure plate that then releases the pressure against the clutch disk against the flywheel. When you take your foot off of the clutch pedal I'm assuming the pressure plate splines push back against the throwout bearing and push it back , in turn pushing the pedal back up? So if my stock clutch's splines on the pressure plate are weak/ worn out and not able to push against the throwout bearing hard enough my pedal will only some back up really slowely or only half way. I think that's also the case with the slave not being shimmed properly. If your slave should have been shimmed and wasn't, the throw out bearing won't be close enough to push the splines on the pressure plate far enough and won't dissengage the clutch all the way. Without the shim there, the throwout bearing is also going to be to far from the splines for them to push the pedal all the way back up and that's where the spongey soft pedal is coming from.
Can anyone expand on this? Does the clutch pedal come back up soley on pressure from the hydraulic system or does the splines on the pressure plate have a hand in it as well? When I pump the clutch pedal a bunch of times the clutch pedal does become firmer and is stronger to pop back up. I've ruled out heat as an issue as I wrapped the hydraulic line in heat sheilding, routed it away from the headers, and most importantly it is sticky/slow to come up during normal driving even before the car warms up and it's cold out side. (It's not like it does great but once the car warms up or gets hot the clutch gets sticky/ slow to come up, it's even when it's cold)
I read all the stickies here on LS1tech, I reseached hundreds and hundreds of threads. I bled my hydraulic system every way you can think of, every method I could find. I did the mity vac, I tried Dot 3, I tried Dot 4, I tried Dot 3/4 even 5.1. I then replaced my slave. Dropped the tranny, replaced the slave...still the same symptoms. Then I bought a new master cylinder...still the same thing. Then I took out the master and did the drill mod, still the same thing. No leaks in the hydrualic system, I'm not loosing fluid, fluid is brand new most of the time.
The only thing I can think of is that the self adjusting pressure plate in my stock LS1 clutch assembly is worn out/bad and is just soft and laggy. One day when I am in a better position I want to buy a Monster stage 1 or 2 clutch and see if that cures it. I would say the same could be said for you but you already said you put a different clutch in it and are having the same problem.
From what I understand, when you push your clutch pedal in, the throwout bearing is pushed out against the splines of the pressure plate that then releases the pressure against the clutch disk against the flywheel. When you take your foot off of the clutch pedal I'm assuming the pressure plate splines push back against the throwout bearing and push it back , in turn pushing the pedal back up? So if my stock clutch's splines on the pressure plate are weak/ worn out and not able to push against the throwout bearing hard enough my pedal will only some back up really slowely or only half way. I think that's also the case with the slave not being shimmed properly. If your slave should have been shimmed and wasn't, the throw out bearing won't be close enough to push the splines on the pressure plate far enough and won't dissengage the clutch all the way. Without the shim there, the throwout bearing is also going to be to far from the splines for them to push the pedal all the way back up and that's where the spongey soft pedal is coming from.
Can anyone expand on this? Does the clutch pedal come back up soley on pressure from the hydraulic system or does the splines on the pressure plate have a hand in it as well? When I pump the clutch pedal a bunch of times the clutch pedal does become firmer and is stronger to pop back up. I've ruled out heat as an issue as I wrapped the hydraulic line in heat sheilding, routed it away from the headers, and most importantly it is sticky/slow to come up during normal driving even before the car warms up and it's cold out side. (It's not like it does great but once the car warms up or gets hot the clutch gets sticky/ slow to come up, it's even when it's cold)
Last edited by TheBlueKnight; 07-18-2012 at 12:01 PM.
