T-56 rebuild syncro question
#1
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I am rebuilding my T-56 and am pretty sure the previous person to rebuild it swapped the 5/6 and reverse syncros. They have the same diameter but one is slightly thicker. The damage I saw was in the reverse section things were too tight for washers got worn out. In the 5/6 the teeth are pretty eaten up. I just want to verify which one is which as the manual doesn't list one as being a little thicker than the other.
Is the thicker syncro ring one for 5/6?
Or it could not even matter since they are sliding back and forth but you never know. :-)
Is the thicker syncro ring one for 5/6?
Or it could not even matter since they are sliding back and forth but you never know. :-)
#2
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I have switched the rev syncro with the 5/6 syncro many times. I do this if the original rev syncro was perfect on both sides, but the 5/6 was good on only one side.
I have never noticed a thickness difference with these and swapping them is no problem at all. Can you post your pics of the syncros and your measurements?
I have never noticed a thickness difference with these and swapping them is no problem at all. Can you post your pics of the syncros and your measurements?
#3
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The difference is very minute.
Slider one: fork pad width .290"
overall width .920"
Slider two: fork pad width .292"
overall width .932"
Inside hubs are identical.
My issue is that the one that came off of reverse is shredded on both side. So I'd have to use the 5/6 one since it still has one good side. From a visual perspective the only other difference I see is that there is a ring meant for direction (I think) and the location is different between the two.
The previous rebuilder somehow had the entire blocker and syncro area way too tight and ruined the gear and spacers at the same time.
What is the purpose of the small grooved rings? Are they for installations direction?
Slider one: fork pad width .290"
overall width .920"
Slider two: fork pad width .292"
overall width .932"
Inside hubs are identical.
My issue is that the one that came off of reverse is shredded on both side. So I'd have to use the 5/6 one since it still has one good side. From a visual perspective the only other difference I see is that there is a ring meant for direction (I think) and the location is different between the two.
The previous rebuilder somehow had the entire blocker and syncro area way too tight and ruined the gear and spacers at the same time.
What is the purpose of the small grooved rings? Are they for installations direction?
#4
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iTrader: (5)
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The difference is very minute.
Slider one: fork pad width .290"
overall width .920"
Slider two: fork pad width .292"
overall width .932"
Inside hubs are identical.
My issue is that the one that came off of reverse is shredded on both side. So I'd have to use the 5/6 one since it still has one good side. From a visual perspective the only other difference I see is that there is a ring meant for direction (I think) and the location is different between the two.
The previous rebuilder somehow had the entire blocker and syncro area way too tight and ruined the gear and spacers at the same time.
What is the purpose of the small grooved rings? Are they for installations direction?
Slider one: fork pad width .290"
overall width .920"
Slider two: fork pad width .292"
overall width .932"
Inside hubs are identical.
My issue is that the one that came off of reverse is shredded on both side. So I'd have to use the 5/6 one since it still has one good side. From a visual perspective the only other difference I see is that there is a ring meant for direction (I think) and the location is different between the two.
The previous rebuilder somehow had the entire blocker and syncro area way too tight and ruined the gear and spacers at the same time.
What is the purpose of the small grooved rings? Are they for installations direction?
I have seen the reverse gear become damaged along with the trust washer, reverse roller bearing, and main shaft because the snap ring that retains the reverse syncro was either left out during assembly or the snap ring fails/comes out of the groove on the mainshaft.
#5
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The snap rings were in place. But for whatever reason there was a fair deal of force pressing everything together. (just in the reverse section) When I took it apart it wasn't tight but it was very obvious that there was a compression issue. The thick washer that sits next to the back side of the reverse gear had had actually deposited material on the rev gear and created a hot spot. Maybe someone was doing burnouts in reverse? I don't really know.
Not to mention the washers that sit on either side of the reverse idle gear weren't even installed. /sigh
Oh and I will be calling you guys to order a slew of parts in the next day or so.
Not to mention the washers that sit on either side of the reverse idle gear weren't even installed. /sigh
Oh and I will be calling you guys to order a slew of parts in the next day or so.
#7
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My 5/6 driven gear is toast as it the main shaft. I've been in contact with TDP about getting the built up mainshaft so it doesn't happen again. It just sucks when a $220 main shaft and $185 5/6 cluster are bad because Tremic didn't make it .003" thicker....