shine

My LS1 f-body has a stock clutch setup with the Tick master cylinder. When the Tick was initially installed the driving experience and clutch feel was great - there was very little play at the top of the pedal. Recently it seemed to lose its adjustment. The pedal was sloppy up top with lots of play. I had it readjusted as well as the slave inspected, but that adjustment only lasted a couple weeks. I jumped in the car one morning and could push the nearly limp pedal to the floor and not even reach the engage/disengagement point...obviously I can't even drive the car.

I am guessing the rod just needs adjusting again. Now, I did not install the MC or make any of the adjustments, ever. Is it a matter of loosening both nuts at the end of the pushrod? I've read the instructions PDF from Tick but I don't want to screw it up..

therobman

iTrader: (39)

u need to make sure the nuts on the top and bottom are tight. I really couldnt reach the top when i installed mine and it keep doing the same thing every week or so untill i got my way in there to tighten both nuts havent had a problem since

Fbodyjunkie06

iTrader: (10)

If you would like you can call us tomorrow at the shop and we will be glad to walk you through it.

shine

I can access the one to loosen or tighten it fine but the other is a real pain! I can't anything around that nut...

Thanks I might do that.

Jonathan@Tick

iTrader: (5)

It is easy to tighten the jam nut on the top near the pedal. Just tighten the 1/2" jam nut on the master cylinder side first. Then hold the 9/16" nut near the pedal and turn the aluminum turn buckle/rod to tighten it.

Since the gold rod is already locked down to the aluminum rod, the adjustment won't change on that end. The gold rod fits is a ball/socket deal so it will spin freely in the back of the cylinder.

Its much easier to turn the aluminum rod that it is to try and turn the 9/16" nut.

With that said, a limp pedal sounds like the hydraulics are bleeding down somewhere. It could be master or slave. Have you noticed any fluid leaks? Check around the dust boot of the master on the inside of the car.

Even with no leaks, it can bleed down internally. pump the pedal up until its firm...then hold pressure against the pedal (but not pushing it down all the way). If the pedal gradually seeps down you know something is bad. pump the pedal back up and then disconnect the masters line from the slave.

With the line disconnected, apply some pressure to the pedal by hand. Dont push too hard. If the pedal still seeps down you have a master issue. If the pedal holds firm, you likely have a slave issue. For this to work the quick disconnect has to be closed off (the piston in the end of it should automatically close itself). With this closed fluid can't escape and its a good way to test the cup seal in the master.