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LS7 clutch disengagement issues

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Old 07-25-2012, 08:44 AM
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Default LS7 clutch disengagement issues

First off, done a search and still have questions. I'm in the middle of an LS7 clutch install. I pulled out a Textralia Exoskel that needed adjusting and was just too much clutch for my needs. The master and slave have less than 5k miles (new updated GM) and now the clutch will not disengage. This was a new kit, new ls2 flywheel and all. We measured for a shim and needed one, put the trans up without it while it was in the mail. We were able to get it slightly disengaged, the tires would still move when you put it in gear on the lift but you could actually hold the tire still. This was with no shim. I ordered a shim and put it in, no disengagement at all. On the lift and in gear with the clutch on the floor, the brakes will kill the motor.

I've tried no shim, a .113 shim, .238 shim (.125 and .113), double checked that the pressure plate is torqued correctly and the clutch disc is in right and not backwards.

One thing I've noticed different from the other clutch is that the pedal is notchy. You can feel hydraulic pressure till about halfway up and then it springs all the way back to the top.

I've got three thoughts.....#1 is that the SAC pressure plate somehow needs to be reset. I bought the kit from a member on here who decided to go bigger and never installed it. I've got the procedure to reset it, gonna try it on Saturday. The springs look like any other picture I can find, not completely compressed and not completely out. #2 is that I've still somehow got air in the system. We've bled it and bled it, probably going through 2 full quarts of fluid. I don't have a speed bleeder, but have an access hole in the floor that the previous owner cut. I guess it's possible it could have air in it, but I don't see how. #3, bad slave cylinder. It seems like I don't have enough hydraulic movement to disengage it. I guess I'm lucky I've got a lift and a trans jack. I can have it out in 5 minutes with the exhaust, driveshaft, and torque arm already off.

Any ideas? Thanks!
Old 07-25-2012, 09:03 AM
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I would say adjustable M/C if you do not have one already..... Mine would not disengage until Futral made my stock M/C adjustable. All good now
Old 07-26-2012, 06:56 AM
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Thanks, I've read that but never found out exactly the cause of people needing an adjustable master. I'm in the process of making my stock one adjustable, we're gonna have a brand new stock replacement to try, and gonna reset the pressure plate.
Old 07-26-2012, 12:25 PM
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Reset the pressure plate and do some more bleeding. I bet this will fix it.

I would recommend a Tick before making the stock piece adjustable, they are too prone to issues and, to me, it's a waste of time.

If you continue to have issues with this let us know, we can get you into a Monster that won't give you any of these headaches.
Old 07-26-2012, 02:25 PM
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Thanks.....problem is I've almost spent my budget. Oh well, gotta do what I've gotta do, I may have to order a Monster!
Old 07-26-2012, 08:45 PM
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If you need to call us tomorrow at Tick and we can get you squared away on a Tick Master and slave!
Old 07-28-2012, 08:09 PM
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So I spent about 7 hours on it today with no progress. We took everything back apart and the pressure plate was in fact adjusted out. We reset it and bolted it back up. Before this, we measured for a shim and it came up that we didn't need one. It was actually just under 1/16th which may be a little too close. No change. Then, we pulled the stock master (replaced less than 5000mi ago) and made it adjustable, no change. Adjusted the rod, no change. After this, we went to the auto parts store and got a new replacement master. When we got back to install it, we had good pedal. The pedal has been near the floor every time and we've had to physically pull it back up to bleed it with no change. We tried to bleed it again, and the pedal went away back to nothing.

I'm tired of this. We've triple checked everything, ran atleast 3 quarts of fluid on the floor bleeding it, and still nothing. I've done everything I know to do short of getting another clutch. I had no troubles with the hydraulics before changing clutches. Any ideas? HELP!
Old 07-31-2012, 06:24 AM
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UPDATE.....

For anyone searching for this in the future, we found the problem. I was getting hung up on the SAC pressure plate thing, when it was air in the hydraulics the whole time. We pressure bled it with a Mityvac and was driving it 30 minutes later.
Old 08-01-2012, 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by ncsu602
UPDATE.....

For anyone searching for this in the future, we found the problem. I was getting hung up on the SAC pressure plate thing, when it was air in the hydraulics the whole time. We pressure bled it with a Mityvac and was driving it 30 minutes later.



now what are your mods for your dyno pull in the sig????
Old 08-01-2012, 03:49 PM
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Just your usual boltons and a cam, the heads haven't been touched
Old 08-01-2012, 07:34 PM
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Originally Posted by ncsu602
Just your usual boltons and a cam, the heads haven't been touched
That is what I am wanting very soon

need a cam
Old 08-01-2012, 08:07 PM
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With the cam, the best thing I did was install a cutout. Every cammed car needs one! Just like

I drove the car a lot today and this clutch is amazing! It drives just like a stock clutch and holds everything I've got. I should've done this a long time ago!



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