A4 to m6 help
A4 to m6 help Ive read the sticky and I'm still just really unclear on what is needed so I'm hopeing someone can tell me what is needed and answer a few questions. I'll start off by saying I have a 99z28 a4 and a 98 ws6 m6 (wrecked) I'm just wondering what is need to swap (parts wise) the m6 into my z28 and also can any tuner swap the computer to m6? Again I've read the sticky I'm just having a hard time understanding it. Thanks in advance
Derek
Derek
from another thread (there are tons out there)
and the transmission crossmember
yes you can have any tuner flash it to a 6 speed tune
- t56 Transmission
- t56 bellhousing
- clutch kit (pressure plate and friction pad)
- flywheel
- master cylinder
- slave cylinder
- pilot bearing
- shifter assembly (shifter and shift ****)
- upper console (w/ boot)
- manual style pedals
- vehicle speed sensor and reverse light pigtails
- m6 PCM or have yours flashed for an m6
yes you can have any tuner flash it to a 6 speed tune
yes you should have everything needed
the one decision you'll have to make is with the wiring. you can rewire the factory 99 harness for the manual and have it flashed (pretty easy), swap in all the 98 stuff (which is a step backwards with the slower PCM), or use the 98 wiring but convert it and use the 99 computer reflashed
the one decision you'll have to make is with the wiring. you can rewire the factory 99 harness for the manual and have it flashed (pretty easy), swap in all the 98 stuff (which is a step backwards with the slower PCM), or use the 98 wiring but convert it and use the 99 computer reflashed
From what I've read rewiring is pretty simple like less then 10 wires the only thing is the reverse lockout and if I'm not mistakin you can remove the lockout correct me if I'm wrong. Thanks again guys
Yes it's pretty simple all my stuff came from a 98 but I used my 02 PCM. Basically you swap in the tranny and pedals and for the wiring I just ordered the new pigtails off eBay. I just extended the Vss wiring to reach then I wired in the reverse lights from the auto harness and for the reverse lockout I ran it to te PCM just like factory. It's all pretty simple and in the writeup also don't forget the clutch safety switch on the pedal to start the car
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ya honestly its not that hard. I did the full swap in 5 days by myself on jackstands while also working full time lol. It can be done in a weekend if you dont hit any snags lol the hardest part is drilling and mounting the m/c....
A word for the wise though, make sure to get all new hydraulics, M/C, Slave etc. I'd recommend a tick m/c to be safe and by all means dont use the old clutch from the 98 get a new one. It may cost more coin up front but it will save you some headaches sooner or later.
A word for the wise though, make sure to get all new hydraulics, M/C, Slave etc. I'd recommend a tick m/c to be safe and by all means dont use the old clutch from the 98 get a new one. It may cost more coin up front but it will save you some headaches sooner or later.
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On The Tree
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The wiring of the tranny consists of 6 wires. 2 that splice together to activate the hatch release button, 2 that have to be lengthened a foot to be ran down to the backup light switch, and 2 that should be plugged into the safety switch on the clutch pedal that are the original neutral safety switch. I opted to just connect them but my car will start at any time without the clutch pressed. The VSS wires need to be lengthened about 6 inches if you are still running the rear 02s in their factory locations. I'll second that the only real PITA is the master cylinder and it's mounting hardware. 1 thing that might make it a but easier is to use nuts and bolts instead of the factory U bolt. I wouldn't worry about strengthening the firewall unless you make the hole way too big. The Tick MC apparently has a provision to help strengthen the mounting spot on the firewall and I'll be going with this soon myself. That's all the advice I can give you from my experience so hope it helps
the tick does have a larger mounting area but it also requires more pedal effort so it doesnt really help much lol. with mine I could actually watch the fireall move even when I had the stock m/c. I went and traced out a 1/8" piece of aluminum and braced it. Now the firewall doesnt budge, its easy and only takes 20 mins plus its good insurance from a cracked firewall. a word to the wise here though when you go to a tick m/c you will have to remove the stud under the m/c hole that was there for the auto shift lock cable. Some people get lucky and the studs weld break off when they tighten 2 nuts on it, however I ended up having to remove the brake booster and use an air chisel to get it off. The alum plate also served to cover up the small hole left behind.
On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2011
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I already tore the stud out first thing and was working on making a brace for the firewall but never finished it. I am running a stock clutch for the time being but I imagine I'm gonna be finishing that brace before I put a better one in it.