t56 f-body shifters - what's best
#22
I agree with brigade. I have the hurst billet with the handle and **** out came with. When I got my car it had the factory one with a short stick. I hated that and can't see how anyone likes them. I always felt like I was reaching down in the boot to find the shifter. But to each their own. Anyways I really like the hurst. FWIW, I was adjusting the stops and drive the car around a few times without the console. I liked this the best because I had room for my elbow and didn't haves to worry about it draggingacross the console.
#23
TECH Regular
That's exactly the way I did it, drove around without the console. I liked it so much I am now console delete and just fabbed a nice piece of walnut where the console was and attached a Super boot to that. By the way I have a hurst Billit Plus w/ chrome stick and an old white 4/speed ball. At a car show somebody ask me why I took the 6/speed out.
#24
hey fst ss you still out there?? finally got almost all my bugs out did you do the teamsters car show this year?? shoot me a p.m. with your number. i need to talk to you about your tuner. tell earl to kiss a hairy dogs butt will ya? the oldman...
#27
Staging Lane
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I know this is an old thread, but I have a question. Im putting a T-56 in my truck, and this necessitates a longer stick. So Im looking for a shifter that has the shortest throws, so that by the time I put an 15" stick on it I dont have a foot of throw. So, whos shifter has the shortest throws?
#28
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#31
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OK, this post is even older now but I have a little problem with my MGW. The Warhawk has been up on a 4 post lift for about a year, so when I let it down yesterday and cranked it for it's yearly drive around the block it won't go into reverse. I don't want to be rough with it but it just won't go way right. Any ideas??
#37
grb
if just reverse is hard to get into maybe the reverse lockout solenoid, or wiring to it, is bad
IDK about the MGW, I have the Hurst Pro Billet which for me I really like
You can verify you don't have a disengagement issue by jacking up rear end, start car, with clutch pushed all the way down and in gear do the rear tires move?
If so you have a disengagement issue preventing you from going into reverse....although typically this would also be 1st gear also which is why I asked about that
If disengagement issue, bleed clutch hydraulics. Maybe with the car sitting for long periods of time the seal in MC may be getting bad
if just reverse is hard to get into maybe the reverse lockout solenoid, or wiring to it, is bad
IDK about the MGW, I have the Hurst Pro Billet which for me I really like
You can verify you don't have a disengagement issue by jacking up rear end, start car, with clutch pushed all the way down and in gear do the rear tires move?
If so you have a disengagement issue preventing you from going into reverse....although typically this would also be 1st gear also which is why I asked about that
If disengagement issue, bleed clutch hydraulics. Maybe with the car sitting for long periods of time the seal in MC may be getting bad
#38
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
Shifters in 4th Gen:
Stock - horrible feel and sloppy, they are all better
SLP - slightly better than stock, less slop, inexpensive upgrade to stock
B&M - pretty decent. Tighter, doesn't pull to center the way I like. Fair price for good shifter
Hurst - pretty decent, tighter, better feel than B&M, doesn't pull to center the way I like, inspired confidence in normal driving. Fair price for good shifter
Pro 5.0 - tight, excellent feel, no slop, noisy, perfect pull to center the way I like, best of the lot for fast secure 2nd to 3rd shift, inspired confidence in all driving conditions. Outstanding price.
MGW - expensive, good shifter, disliked the offset, drag racing like the Pro 5.0 better due to 2 to 3 shift.
Stock - horrible feel and sloppy, they are all better
SLP - slightly better than stock, less slop, inexpensive upgrade to stock
B&M - pretty decent. Tighter, doesn't pull to center the way I like. Fair price for good shifter
Hurst - pretty decent, tighter, better feel than B&M, doesn't pull to center the way I like, inspired confidence in normal driving. Fair price for good shifter
Pro 5.0 - tight, excellent feel, no slop, noisy, perfect pull to center the way I like, best of the lot for fast secure 2nd to 3rd shift, inspired confidence in all driving conditions. Outstanding price.
MGW - expensive, good shifter, disliked the offset, drag racing like the Pro 5.0 better due to 2 to 3 shift.
#39
TECH Apprentice
Shifters in 4th Gen:
Stock - horrible feel and sloppy, they are all better
SLP - slightly better than stock, less slop, inexpensive upgrade to stock
B&M - pretty decent. Tighter, doesn't pull to center the way I like. Fair price for good shifter
Hurst - pretty decent, tighter, better feel than B&M, doesn't pull to center the way I like, inspired confidence in normal driving. Fair price for good shifter
Pro 5.0 - tight, excellent feel, no slop, noisy, perfect pull to center the way I like, best of the lot for fast secure 2nd to 3rd shift, inspired confidence in all driving conditions. Outstanding price.
MGW - expensive, good shifter, disliked the offset, drag racing like the Pro 5.0 better due to 2 to 3 shift.
Stock - horrible feel and sloppy, they are all better
SLP - slightly better than stock, less slop, inexpensive upgrade to stock
B&M - pretty decent. Tighter, doesn't pull to center the way I like. Fair price for good shifter
Hurst - pretty decent, tighter, better feel than B&M, doesn't pull to center the way I like, inspired confidence in normal driving. Fair price for good shifter
Pro 5.0 - tight, excellent feel, no slop, noisy, perfect pull to center the way I like, best of the lot for fast secure 2nd to 3rd shift, inspired confidence in all driving conditions. Outstanding price.
MGW - expensive, good shifter, disliked the offset, drag racing like the Pro 5.0 better due to 2 to 3 shift.
Out of curiosity, what fluid do you use?
#40
OK, this post is even older now but I have a little problem with my MGW. The Warhawk has been up on a 4 post lift for about a year, so when I let it down yesterday and cranked it for it's yearly drive around the block it won't go into reverse. I don't want to be rough with it but it just won't go way right. Any ideas??