Buying new clutch, need help choosing
#21
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when I have the transmission out should I check or replace anything else? and when removing it would it be easier to unbolt the transmission from the bell housing first or just unbolt the bell housing from the engine first? also when buying bolts is it worth the extra money to buy arp over GM?
#22
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I went with ARP just because I worship ARP anything, I think if I could have ARP rivets on my jeans I would some how justify it. It is just cheap insurance so why not?
If your not getting a kit and just getting the disk and pressure plate from someone, make sure you get a slave and throw out bearing. If your not replacing those then it's not worth even pulling the transmission.
Tick's master cylinder is worth the extra money if you can come up with it, do a search and read about them.
Speed bleeder, ehh.... I skipped it, but most people will say to pick it up for the convenience it offers.
If your not getting a kit and just getting the disk and pressure plate from someone, make sure you get a slave and throw out bearing. If your not replacing those then it's not worth even pulling the transmission.
Tick's master cylinder is worth the extra money if you can come up with it, do a search and read about them.
Speed bleeder, ehh.... I skipped it, but most people will say to pick it up for the convenience it offers.
#23
I have the monster stage 2 and love it. Would recommend it. Just installed it a few monthes ago, so I can not comment on it's holding power. But for routine driving (still in the break in period) it can't be beat.
#24
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I plan on buying a full clutch kit with new flywheel. The whole reason I want a new clutch is because the slave cylinder is leaking and the stock clutch has 68,000 miles (I think). Also I just replaced the master cylinder like 300 miles ago with a stock replacement. I was thinking about a speed bleeder but its $50 and Id most likely only use it one time. It doesn't seem worth it for that price.
#25
The speed bleeders are great for flushing out the clutch fluid. It makes it an easy job. Flushing out the clutch fluid should be done regularly especially if you drive your car hard, which most of us do.
#26
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Go with a Monster level 2. Sure, you're not anywhere near its holding capacity, but it gives you room to grow all while being smooth and daily driver friendly. Don't be a cheap *** and not get the speed bleeder. Yeah, you won't use it every day, but when it comes time to flush your hydraulic system you'll be glad you have it.
#28
Hello, I new here. I bought my 1998 camaro SS a few weeks ago and im having problems with the clutch. It started 1 week after I bought it. I replaced the master cylinder and it worked for a week buy it is sucking in air through the slave cylinder and just started leaking out of the bell housing. I need to replace that so while im there im going to replace the clutch too, I just dont know what brand of clutch kit to buy. The car is just a daily driver, mostly stock other than some bolt on's and I don't race it(I might trying road racing next year though). Im also on a budget. I found a SPEC stage 1 clutch on the WS6 store for $270. Is that a good clutch because all the other stage 1 clutches are around $400. Also I plan you have the stock flywheel resurfaced so would I need shims?
Thanks
Thanks
#32
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#35
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Yes I did order the monster clutch. Right now I am trying to remove the transmission. I got everything undone including the 8 bell housing bolts. But I cannot get the bell housing off the engine. It will move up and down about the thickness of a finger nail but that's it. I also tried pulling the tranny off the bell housing with no luck. What could be holding this on? and should I try getting the bell housing off the engine or tranny off belling housing? remember this is a 98 Z28.
Thanks
Thanks
#36
Launching!
Yes I did order the monster clutch. Right now I am trying to remove the transmission. I got everything undone including the 8 bell housing bolts. But I cannot get the bell housing off the engine. It will move up and down about the thickness of a finger nail but that's it. I also tried pulling the tranny off the bell housing with no luck. What could be holding this on? and should I try getting the bell housing off the engine or tranny off belling housing? remember this is a 98 Z28.
Thanks
Thanks
spec clutches are also pretty good but they may require more work since the slave may need to be shimmed...extra step and potential for error could spell doing it all over again.
I took my tranny off first...i remember it didn't just come out. my clutch disc was holding on to the input shaft so i rotated the transmission output shaft back'n forth (need to be in gear)...you can use the driveshaft to rotate. so i did this a few times and then would try to push and pull the trans and it eventually came loose...BE CAREFUL when pulling...apply force...gently if that makes any sense. you don't want to damage you're input shaft!
ok for the bell housing, there a dowel pins on each side...one is on the bell housing and the other is on the engine (9 and 3 o'clock). Often, corrosion gets in there and makes it very challenging to get the bell housing off the back of the engine. I took a flat head punch and hammer to the dowel pin area (passenger side) while adding some pb blaster to the pin and slowly working the bell housing off going all the way around where i could reach. taking off the bell housing was the hardest part of the whole job...so for the next time, you MUST apply COPPER anti-seize on those EFFIN dowel pins b4 re-installing the bellhousing.
#37
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I went with a Diamond Stage 2 and chromoly flywheel, oem slave and tick master. I've got about a year and countless track passes and it has held up with no issues. Zero chatter once it was broken in, faint chatter during break-in.
Don't understand the hostility and people acting as if their clutch products are holyer than thou when all of these manufactuers have ****** in their armor.
Don't understand the hostility and people acting as if their clutch products are holyer than thou when all of these manufactuers have ****** in their armor.
#38
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Ok I got the transmission with bell housing out after about 4 straight hours of prying and hitting. The only problem it once I got in from under the car I unbolted the bell housing from the tranny and broke it loose at the bottom and on the passenger side but the driver side right by where the slave cylinder sticks out there is a guide pin and instead of the bell housing coming off the guide pin a chunk of aluminum broke off the bell housing. I will try to post a pic but what should I do? I REALLY dont want to buy a new or used one. there pricey. Could I JB weld it back on? There would still be 7 bolts holding the bell housing on...
#39
Launching!
Ok I got the transmission with bell housing out after about 4 straight hours of prying and hitting. The only problem it once I got in from under the car I unbolted the bell housing from the tranny and broke it loose at the bottom and on the passenger side but the driver side right by where the slave cylinder sticks out there is a guide pin and instead of the bell housing coming off the guide pin a chunk of aluminum broke off the bell housing. I will try to post a pic but what should I do? I REALLY dont want to buy a new or used one. there pricey. Could I JB weld it back on? There would still be 7 bolts holding the bell housing on...
that must be a pretty big chunk if you lost a bolt hole...on the bright side, it is easier to weld a big piece than a small piece so post a pic and we can go from there.
were you pulling the trans straight off the bell housing or did you try to take it off on an angle?
anyways, need some pics...
#40
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I tried taking it off straight. There was a crack there before I touched it and tried to get it apart with out breaking but failed. I will post a pic when I find time. I have another question. What is the original clutch GM used in a 1998 z28. The pressure plate I pulled off has LUK stamped on it. The disc and pressure plate look in good shape, so I think they have been replaced at one time.