Please help sovle shifting issues for good
Please help sovle shifting issues for good I have the dreaded shifting issue at high rpms. Read all the possible fixes and the stories of them not completely curing the problem. My system is flushed/bled. I'm looking for advice on fixing this problem for good.
My current plans are to install a Monster Level 2, new slave, new master cylinder, and anything else you all recommend.
Questions:
1) Master Cylinder, Tick or 01+ OEM, or something better?
2) Remove sheilds from bell housing to allow better air flow. Pros/cons?
3) What am I missing to get rid of this for good?
Thanks,
Andy
My current plans are to install a Monster Level 2, new slave, new master cylinder, and anything else you all recommend.
Questions:
1) Master Cylinder, Tick or 01+ OEM, or something better?
2) Remove sheilds from bell housing to allow better air flow. Pros/cons?
3) What am I missing to get rid of this for good?
Thanks,
Andy
Last edited by awm556; Oct 9, 2012 at 09:47 AM.
New hydraulics and better air flow, as well as wrapping the lines is a good heat resistant covering and using a higher BP fluid, would all help if this is hydraulic in nature. Have you seen any improvement, even short term, after bleeding the system?
No. This weekend was the first time the cars been driven hard since the last flush. I let it cool for an hour before making a pass. I even tried Shifting a bit early. The clutch basically stays disengaged had to coast to the end of the track. I hope to fix it completly. I will definitly use the tape and use dot 4 fluid. As far as the airflow, do you recommend removing the heat shields?
Last edited by awm556; Oct 9, 2012 at 10:26 AM.
It would be pretty unusual for the diaphragm to simply drop on its own even as RPM's raise. I am sure you aren't reving this thing to the moon. Is the pedal staying down when this occurs?
It seems that you are either aerating the fluid relative to excessive heat or you are seeing an issue with fluid transfer which can happen as a result of a damaged Master.
The heat sheild are there to protect the assembly from heat. Some folks remove them but it could actually make this issue worse.
It seems that you are either aerating the fluid relative to excessive heat or you are seeing an issue with fluid transfer which can happen as a result of a damaged Master.
The heat sheild are there to protect the assembly from heat. Some folks remove them but it could actually make this issue worse.
I have the dreaded shifting issue at high rpms. Read all the possible fixes and the stories of them not completely curing the problem. My system is flushed/bled. I'm looking for advice on fixing this problem for good.
My current plans are to install a Monster Level 2, new slave, new master cylinder, and anything else you all recommend.
Questions:
1) Master Cylinder, Tick or 01+ OEM, or something better?
2) Remove sheilds from bell housing to allow better air flow. Pros/cons?
3) What am I missing to get rid of this for good?
Thanks,
Andy
My current plans are to install a Monster Level 2, new slave, new master cylinder, and anything else you all recommend.
Questions:
1) Master Cylinder, Tick or 01+ OEM, or something better?
2) Remove sheilds from bell housing to allow better air flow. Pros/cons?
3) What am I missing to get rid of this for good?
Thanks,
Andy
Keep in mind the Tick will increase the pedal effort another ~15%, it's a badass unit!
Give us a call and we'll take care of you, our clutches are on sale right now for $125 off with free shipping!
Monster Level 2 + Tick master will get rid of these issues and you'll be good to go once again!
Keep in mind the Tick will increase the pedal effort another ~15%, it's a badass unit!
Give us a call and we'll take care of you, our clutches are on sale right now for $125 off with free shipping!
Keep in mind the Tick will increase the pedal effort another ~15%, it's a badass unit!
Give us a call and we'll take care of you, our clutches are on sale right now for $125 off with free shipping!
Trending Topics
My brother had the same problem you are having with your clutch. He ended up getting a Monster stage 2 and it fixed it. It was the stock GM adujustable pressure plate that wasn't letting him shift at high rpms. Since the new clutch he can shift flawlessly now hasn't missed a shift yet. For what it's worth he has the stock hydraulics with the drill mod. Personally I'd hold off on the $300 Tick Master and see how the Monster clutch does. You probably won't feel you even need it, but if you do you can get it at that point.
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo
Five Reasons the Camaro Was the Most Pivotal Player in the Pony Car Wars 2.0
Brett Foote