Cobra4B

iTrader: (9)

I'm presently setting up a Quartermaster "Street Series" hydraulic TOB for use in the Panoz. Mating a TKO600 to a stock LS1 via a QuickTime bellhousing. I'm using a GM bolt-pattern trans and bellhousing. I'm using an OEM LS6 pressure plate and disk with a chromoly light-weight flywheel.



The TOB specs call for .18" - .25" free play between the bearing face and the clutch fingers with the bearing 100% compressed.

It also states the max bearing travel is 0.625". I've read the rule of thumb is to leave .050" travel before the TOB bottoms out. This means I would have .575" of total travel. If I setup the free play at the specified .18" - .25" I only have 0.395-0.325" of travel before I'm close to bottoming out the TOB against the snap ring.... I.e. max extension.

I read in a RAM TOB setup guide that the average clutch takes 0.400 - 0.500" of TOB travel to disengage. If that's the case with the OEM LS6 clutch then the quatermaster street TOB doesn't provide enough total travel to have the specified setup gap and operate the clutch.

The instructions all have estimated TOB travel distances for various sizes of Quartermaster clutches and they're all in the 0.13 - 0.18" range... much less than 0.400 - 0.500".

Quartermaster's tech folks said the one I have is the one for any/all street clutches.

SO... does anyone know the typical TOB travel needed to release a stock LS6/LS1 clutch?

Thanks,

Brian

This unit

Cobra4B

iTrader: (9)

Nobody? Anyone ever put a clutch assembly on a press and see how much it took to disengage the pressure plate?

Went ahead and put it all together. Will take my spare LS6 clutch to my buddy's shop and put it on the press to see how much it takes to ensure I won't bottom out the TOB.

Cobra4B

iTrader: (9)

Anyone know? Haven't taken my spare clutch to the machine shop yet and don't have a shop press.

Cobra4B

iTrader: (9)

Been needing to buy a shop press for awhile anyway... It takes 0.25" to 0.31" (1/4" to 5/16") to release the OEM clutch.

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

I am using the QMI bearing in my GTO. This might help:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...n-2-0-a-2.html

Make sure that you install a clutch pedal stop. The QMI bearing will rip a seal if it is over traveled. Ask me how I know...LOL

When you measured the travel to release your clutch, what kind of air gap did were you shooting for between the disk and pressure plate?

Andrew

Cobra4B

iTrader: (9)

Yes I have a pedal stop in place already. Since I'm using the OEM self-adjusting pressure plate I set the air gap on the tighter side at 0.13". QM recommended 0.18-0.25" of gap. With the OEM clutch the fingers will only rise so much before the adjuster kicks in and moves the entire pivot point down to maintain finger geometry.

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

I was referring to the air gap when the clutch is released. In order for there to be a clean release, there is a recommended air gap that must be established between the clutch disk and the pressure plate (or flywheel). When you installed the clutch in the press, how did you determine that the clutch was in fact fully released when you came up with the .25-.31" distance?

Stock type organic clutches will need approximately .090" between the disk and pressure plate in order not to "drag" when shifting.

Andrew

Cobra4B

iTrader: (9)

Oh... I put the clutch alignment tool in the disk and operated the press until I could turn it by hand. I didn't measure that part.

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

You may want to repeat it. Push down with the press until you can slip a .090" feeler gauge between the disk and pressure plate. That is full release.

Andrew

Cobra4B

iTrader: (9)

A wee bit late for that... I can repeat the test with my spare clutch, but the engine/trans is in the car. I have the travel to accommodate the 0.090" if it's needed. The pedal stop will be set such that I can't over-extend the TOB. Worst case the clutch wears, pressure plate pivot moves away, and then the clutch won't release 100%. Not that much different than a standard clutch where the finger height eventually rises to the point the clutch won't fully engage. In both instances you have to pull the trans and re-shim the TOB.