upgraded to MGW
.I called MGW today and the lady said it was shipped last week and i should get it sometime next week.I can't wait anymore! lol 
04-13-2013, 08:09 AM
#62
I installed mine about a week ago after a LS7 clutch install and transmission rebuild. It took me about an hour for everything taking my time. I am not sure what everyone is talking about with the herculean effort required to move the shifter. It feels no stiffer to me than a new factory Hurst with a short stick.
It is short and precise, which is what I wanted. It took a day or so for me to get used to the new position of the shifter, but it feels fairly natural now. To me it is definitely worth the money to get rid of some of the slop and noise of a 13 year old factory Hurst Shifter. There is no notchiness that was present with some other shifters I have owned including the Hurst Billet Plus I had in my 98 Trans Am, which I loved. Overall I am happy with the MGW.
It is short and precise, which is what I wanted. It took a day or so for me to get used to the new position of the shifter, but it feels fairly natural now. To me it is definitely worth the money to get rid of some of the slop and noise of a 13 year old factory Hurst Shifter. There is no notchiness that was present with some other shifters I have owned including the Hurst Billet Plus I had in my 98 Trans Am, which I loved. Overall I am happy with the MGW.
04-13-2013, 08:28 AM
#63
ya i have the 03-04 cobra *** on mine and since it threads all the way to the top of the **** it sits very low which makes it take some "effort" to shift and you feel more of the trans "workings" I guess you could say. I switched it the other day for an mgw gripper and it was much smoother. Even the cobra **** was good though just a different feel longer throw with the mgw gripper since it doesnt thread down but smoother, shorter throw with the cobra but a little more effort
04-13-2013, 11:43 AM
#65
Ordered mine got in in 4 days the hardest part was figuring out which **** I wanted now its sitting in the box ontop of my mcloed clutch ppl , next to my crossmember,centerconsole and other swap parts .can't wait to put em in
04-13-2013, 12:27 PM
#66
I installed mine with the factory Hurst ****, and at the line they machined into the stick. I am considering moving it up a half an inch or so to give it a little more throw. I am also thinking about bending the stick towards the drivers side slightly to give it a more natural position.
I cut off the top flat area, and cut out the first round angled area of the number 6 boot so I would have no interference, which I think might be causing some people problems with the stiffness of the MGW. Without removing these areas it looked to me like it could cause some binding between the orange handle, and the rubber boot of the shifter itself. Basically it looks like I cut a 2" circle out of the top of the boot if that makes it easier to visualize.
Since I cut the boot I installed a piece of closed cell foam around the shifter base which kind of sealed the hole shut around the shifter. There is NO noise from the tunnel area like there was before with only the boot.
Not trying to tell anyone they did anything wrong, this is just what I did with mine, and a few thoughts about some improvements for my situation.
I cut off the top flat area, and cut out the first round angled area of the number 6 boot so I would have no interference, which I think might be causing some people problems with the stiffness of the MGW. Without removing these areas it looked to me like it could cause some binding between the orange handle, and the rubber boot of the shifter itself. Basically it looks like I cut a 2" circle out of the top of the boot if that makes it easier to visualize.
Since I cut the boot I installed a piece of closed cell foam around the shifter base which kind of sealed the hole shut around the shifter. There is NO noise from the tunnel area like there was before with only the boot.
Not trying to tell anyone they did anything wrong, this is just what I did with mine, and a few thoughts about some improvements for my situation.
04-13-2013, 02:03 PM
#67
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Is this able to stand up to the heat in that area on a hot, mid-summer day without melting, or have you not had out it in those conditions yet??
04-13-2013, 02:22 PM
#68
That area of the transmission doesn't get hot enough to burn anything, but if it does start to break down from the summer heat I'll just get another piece. I doubt it will though.
Good question though. Maybe I'll play with an extra piece and see how it reacts to open flame.
04-13-2013, 05:00 PM
#70
Got pics?
I installed mine with the factory Hurst ****, and at the line they machined into the stick. I am considering moving it up a half an inch or so to give it a little more throw. I am also thinking about bending the stick towards the drivers side slightly to give it a more natural position.
I cut off the top flat area, and cut out the first round angled area of the number 6 boot so I would have no interference, which I think might be causing some people problems with the stiffness of the MGW. Without removing these areas it looked to me like it could cause some binding between the orange handle, and the rubber boot of the shifter itself. Basically it looks like I cut a 2" circle out of the top of the boot if that makes it easier to visualize.
Since I cut the boot I installed a piece of closed cell foam around the shifter base which kind of sealed the hole shut around the shifter. There is NO noise from the tunnel area like there was before with only the boot.
Not trying to tell anyone they did anything wrong, this is just what I did with mine, and a few thoughts about some improvements for my situation.
I cut off the top flat area, and cut out the first round angled area of the number 6 boot so I would have no interference, which I think might be causing some people problems with the stiffness of the MGW. Without removing these areas it looked to me like it could cause some binding between the orange handle, and the rubber boot of the shifter itself. Basically it looks like I cut a 2" circle out of the top of the boot if that makes it easier to visualize.
Since I cut the boot I installed a piece of closed cell foam around the shifter base which kind of sealed the hole shut around the shifter. There is NO noise from the tunnel area like there was before with only the boot.
Not trying to tell anyone they did anything wrong, this is just what I did with mine, and a few thoughts about some improvements for my situation.
04-13-2013, 06:25 PM
#71
I never took any, sorry. It's all fairly straight forward once you get it all apart.
I actually got the foam idea from another post about the MGW shifter. I didn't cut as much away from the top of the boot as the included post.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/13824774-post20.html
I actually got the foam idea from another post about the MGW shifter. I didn't cut as much away from the top of the boot as the included post.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/13824774-post20.html
04-14-2013, 12:15 PM
#74
Tbh if I had to do it over again I would probably get the cobra threads or corvette threads on the stick as there are a lot more **** options. The fbody threads are m16-1.5 btw.
I bought both of these and they were threaded for a cobra. I just went down and ordered an m16x1.5 tap and for 10 bucks I can now make almost any **** work with my setup. I just drilled the cobra one (plastic) and tapped it. the mgw is solid metal inside so that one took a little longer with the drill but still had it done in less than an hr.
I bought both of these and they were threaded for a cobra. I just went down and ordered an m16x1.5 tap and for 10 bucks I can now make almost any **** work with my setup. I just drilled the cobra one (plastic) and tapped it. the mgw is solid metal inside so that one took a little longer with the drill but still had it done in less than an hr.
04-15-2013, 01:27 PM
#76
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