Can't get t56 up to ls1
02-27-2013, 01:32 PM
#21
The missing bolt hole means the bell was designed for a SBC (LT1), not an LS. I'm not sure the length is the same for the LS1 and LT1 application. You might want to check that befor you break anyrhing else.
Are you sure your trans is not an LT1 T56 too? Input shaft will be a different length.
Are you sure your trans is not an LT1 T56 too? Input shaft will be a different length.
Man I really wouldn't doubt it. I tend to have some pretty bad luck >.< I did get it off ebay so that's probably a pretty high possibility. Only reason I got it from ebay is because it's just a hunk of aluminum, not a working mechanical part. All other bolt holes are matched perfectly though and it should do me just fine until I decide to get a QT bellhousing. (Should've gotten the Quick Time bell instead, but I was being a cheap bastard.)
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02-27-2013, 05:17 PM
#23
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The bell that I have looks exactly like the top picture. The hole that is misaligned is the bottom right hole on the block side of the ls1 bell (from the picture's view). I had the bell on the block previously, it pulls up and fits perfectly with just that one hole being misaligned. Shouldn't really be too big of a deal though. There's still 7 other bolt holes to use, 6 counting the threads that I broke, but only the first 4 threads broke out of it, so hopefully once the bell is all the way on I can get the bolt through. If I can't, would using 6 do any harm? Or would I have to get a tap set?
02-27-2013, 05:42 PM
#24
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Oh and my trans is an ls1 t56, the faceplate has the spaces for the hydraulic linkage. My input shaft sticks out pretty far past the bell, so I'm pretty sure it's the ls1, not the lt1. If the guy who I bought it from was telling the truth (not sure who would like about the input shaft, they're almost identical in price) it came off of a 2000 trans am, which uses the ls1 shaft.
02-27-2013, 06:07 PM
#25
i had the same issue...i ended up installing the bell housing first then the transmission. it sounds a little counter intuitive but i found easier to lineup the input shaft and pilot bearing because i could see a little more...if you can get access to a transmission jack with a platform that tilts it will definitely simplify your life...
02-27-2013, 08:50 PM
#26
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I took the clutch off like 3 times to make sure that wasn't the problem, the tool slides in and out with no resistance or effort put in so I should be good. My new bearing comes in tomorrow, so I'll be swapping those out and making sure everything is aligned perfectly again and that the slave bearing clearance is within tolerance (assuming the pilot I just put in isn't a bitch and a half to get out).
02-28-2013, 08:04 AM
#28
alright.....i would definitely bolt up the bell housing first then get a buddy to help. when I was putting mine back in i had piddled with it on a auto trans jack for about 3 hours with no progress, then my dad got off work and we just kind of manhandled it and i rotated the input shaft or the trans (cant remember) till it started to slide in. It took about 5-10 mins once i had some help
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Vette-byrd (08-17-2021)
02-28-2013, 10:14 AM
#29
Another thing you might check is if your starter will mount up once the bellhousing is attached to the motor. A friend of mine had that problem, I think he said the bell was from a GTO. The motor was the LS1 from my '01 T/A. Nice to find out after getting the trans mounted, and having to pull everything again 
02-28-2013, 05:45 PM
#30
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Another thing I forgot to mention. I don't have the stock f body oil pan. My engine had a truck oil pan when I got it, so I got the ls muscle car oil pan from jegs. Could it be the oil pan causing the misalignment?
03-04-2013, 11:44 AM
#31
The bell that I have looks exactly like the top picture. The hole that is misaligned is the bottom right hole on the block side of the ls1 bell (from the picture's view). I had the bell on the block previously, it pulls up and fits perfectly with just that one hole being misaligned. Shouldn't really be too big of a deal though. There's still 7 other bolt holes to use, 6 counting the threads that I broke, but only the first 4 threads broke out of it, so hopefully once the bell is all the way on I can get the bolt through. If I can't, would using 6 do any harm? Or would I have to get a tap set?
03-04-2013, 10:54 PM
#32
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I got everything together today! The bearing was in fact what was holding me back. Once I got the new bearing in, the trans seemingly fell into the engine when I pushed them together. I also got the bolt into that broken threaded hole, I had to have the bellhousing a little closer just like I thought. Thanks for all the help from everyone, I really appreciate everything! Now my next challenge is getting the engine/trans into the car, I'll probably be making a thread about it asking for some help and advice as well. It's looking to me like I'm gonna have to cut up the trans tunnel crossmember a little bit to fit the shifter, then re weld something else on for structure. Anyone done this or know anyone who has?
03-06-2013, 12:07 PM
#34
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I'll be sure to get a few next time I go back to where my car is! I got my trans shifter hole cut out yesterday, so now I'll be trying to see if everything will fit in once my poly trans mount and driveshaft couplers come in.
12-03-2014, 10:12 AM
#35
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Hey sorry to bump an ancient thread, but I've got a very similar problem and looking for help.
I've got an LS3 I'm putting into my 73 240z, I bought an LS7 clutch kit from tick with pilot bearing and alignment tool for my engine/trans
Right now the car is on the hoist, with the engine sitting inside, I've got the trans (LS T56, fbody style) on a trans jack. After some tunnel modification I could get the trans shaft splines into the clutch, but there's about an inch left to go before the bellhousingg is to the block.
Before installing the pilot bearing in the block I tried it on the trans shaft to make sure it fit, which it did.
I can slide my alignment tool in and out like butter. I'm just wondering if there's a trick to getting that last little bit in. Which I think, judging by the distance is the end of the shaft not going into the bearing. I figured if the splines were engaged I can't really wiggle anything around to much because it will all move together.
This is an install using all new parts. Crate engine, freshly rebuilt trans, new clutch etc.. Is there something stupid that I'm just forgetting about?
Would love to hear some ideas.
Thanks guys..
I've got an LS3 I'm putting into my 73 240z, I bought an LS7 clutch kit from tick with pilot bearing and alignment tool for my engine/trans
Right now the car is on the hoist, with the engine sitting inside, I've got the trans (LS T56, fbody style) on a trans jack. After some tunnel modification I could get the trans shaft splines into the clutch, but there's about an inch left to go before the bellhousingg is to the block.
Before installing the pilot bearing in the block I tried it on the trans shaft to make sure it fit, which it did.
I can slide my alignment tool in and out like butter. I'm just wondering if there's a trick to getting that last little bit in. Which I think, judging by the distance is the end of the shaft not going into the bearing. I figured if the splines were engaged I can't really wiggle anything around to much because it will all move together.
This is an install using all new parts. Crate engine, freshly rebuilt trans, new clutch etc.. Is there something stupid that I'm just forgetting about?
Would love to hear some ideas.
Thanks guys..
12-05-2014, 03:35 PM
#37
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My problem ended up being my plastic alignment tool. I measured the OD of the tool where the bearing sits and it was 14.72mm , my shaft was 15.00mm. Small difference I know, but I was running out of ideas.
I went to local dealership and they had an old input shaft laying around and let me borrow it. Their shaft was 14.99mm.
I used that to align my clutch, the exact same way I had done with my plastic tool. The transmission went in like butter this time!
Everyone I talked to said the plastic tools have always worked fine for them and they aren't that bad, but after this headache I'll never trust one again.
I went to local dealership and they had an old input shaft laying around and let me borrow it. Their shaft was 14.99mm.
I used that to align my clutch, the exact same way I had done with my plastic tool. The transmission went in like butter this time!
Everyone I talked to said the plastic tools have always worked fine for them and they aren't that bad, but after this headache I'll never trust one again.
