trans fluid????
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i need to change my trans fluid, it is a 2001 SS, and i dont know which is the best? should i use the gm snycromesh, or the redline? also, what type, the kind for atf, or the one for manual
thanks again
jimmy
thanks again
jimmy
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jimmy 2 Times- You can try reading the thread below for some recent discussion. Best way to get an opion would be to Search for Redline in this Manual Transmission forum, you should get plenty of hits.
WHAT OIL for my M6????
I'd say your choices in the Redline department are either Redline D4 ATF (synthetic, Dexron III rated, and at the weight of an ATF), and Redline MTL (synthetic, non-Dexron III rated, and a little heavier than GM Synchromesh). Most run the D4 as it is Dexron III rated, however the MTL has higher AW/EP adds. I can't remember reading anything bad about MTL in a T-56, so you should be safe with either one...although to be fair, you'd be safest with the D4 ATF.
GM Synchromesh is heavier than the Redline D4 ATF, but a little lighter than Redline MTL. It is a semi-synthetic, I don't know if it is Dexron III rated or not. The GM part number you need is 12345349 - you'll need 4 quarts of it, price should be somewhere around $8 USD a quart.
As for which is better....really hard to get conclusive evidence either way.
1. Both Redlines are fully synthetic, while the GM Synchromesh is semi-sythetic; however GM says the dino Dexron III is good for 100,000 miles, so does this point really matter?
2. The Redline D4 ATF is the same weight as an ATF, so people concerned about running the correct weight in their T-56, but wanting a synthetic such as Redline makes would probably want to go this route. Royal Purple also markets a fluid called Synchromax, which I believe is also fully synthetic, that is the same weight as an ATF. Report on this fluid have been positive, however you probably want to steer clear or their Max ATF, as both occurances I've read about it in a F-body T-56 the owner had problems - not 100% sure it was the fluid (although one is certain/near certain it was the fluid), but not a great track record there on the Max ATF.
3. Don't know about the Royal Purple Synchromax, but the Redline MTL has a beefier AW/EP add pack than dino Dexron III, so in strict additive terms, the MTL is hard to beat.
4. Cold weather shifting: The MTL will probably be the hardest to shift when cold, followed by the Synchromesh...the others will be the same as the ATF. Once warmed up (some users report within 5 miles or so), the shifting normals (for that type of fluid) out. I don't want to suggest it's next to impossible to shift when using MTL or Synchromesh, just that they should be a little harder to shift when cold, since they are thicker fluids.
Hope this helps you out!![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
Chuck
WHAT OIL for my M6????
I'd say your choices in the Redline department are either Redline D4 ATF (synthetic, Dexron III rated, and at the weight of an ATF), and Redline MTL (synthetic, non-Dexron III rated, and a little heavier than GM Synchromesh). Most run the D4 as it is Dexron III rated, however the MTL has higher AW/EP adds. I can't remember reading anything bad about MTL in a T-56, so you should be safe with either one...although to be fair, you'd be safest with the D4 ATF.
GM Synchromesh is heavier than the Redline D4 ATF, but a little lighter than Redline MTL. It is a semi-synthetic, I don't know if it is Dexron III rated or not. The GM part number you need is 12345349 - you'll need 4 quarts of it, price should be somewhere around $8 USD a quart.
As for which is better....really hard to get conclusive evidence either way.
1. Both Redlines are fully synthetic, while the GM Synchromesh is semi-sythetic; however GM says the dino Dexron III is good for 100,000 miles, so does this point really matter?
2. The Redline D4 ATF is the same weight as an ATF, so people concerned about running the correct weight in their T-56, but wanting a synthetic such as Redline makes would probably want to go this route. Royal Purple also markets a fluid called Synchromax, which I believe is also fully synthetic, that is the same weight as an ATF. Report on this fluid have been positive, however you probably want to steer clear or their Max ATF, as both occurances I've read about it in a F-body T-56 the owner had problems - not 100% sure it was the fluid (although one is certain/near certain it was the fluid), but not a great track record there on the Max ATF.
3. Don't know about the Royal Purple Synchromax, but the Redline MTL has a beefier AW/EP add pack than dino Dexron III, so in strict additive terms, the MTL is hard to beat.
4. Cold weather shifting: The MTL will probably be the hardest to shift when cold, followed by the Synchromesh...the others will be the same as the ATF. Once warmed up (some users report within 5 miles or so), the shifting normals (for that type of fluid) out. I don't want to suggest it's next to impossible to shift when using MTL or Synchromesh, just that they should be a little harder to shift when cold, since they are thicker fluids.
Hope this helps you out!
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
Chuck
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I just changed my fluid today after 40k miles. It was dark and looked very due for a change. I used Dexron III ATF and it seems to shift very smooth now. So use what you want but i was able to improve my shifting with just the dexron III.