OneHottLS1

iTrader: (1)

I just installed my spec stage 2 and did the drill mod w/upgraded slave. I am using a mityvac to bleed the system but it seems like i am getting an endless supply of air bubbles. I am placing the pointed fitting into the clutch master cylinder hole and pumping it up to about 22-25 on the gauge, and as each bubble comes up the line the vacuum on the gauge slowly falls. Am I doing something wrong or do I have a leak somehere? My trans is very notchy going into gears and I cant shift quickly at all at high rpm's. Any other bleeding methods?

wrencher

iTrader: (2)

Well what helps is B-4 you put the slave in is to put teflon tape around the threads.
Now that its in you cannot do this....
What master are you running?
Does it have excessive free play in the pedal?

Murdock

iTrader: (2)

When you say you are putting the pointed fitting into the "clutch master cylinder hole," do you mean the hole in the bottom of the resevoir? If so, it might not be sealing good and you may be pulling air between the pointed fitting and the resevoir. Try filling the resevoir with fluid while the fitting is stuck into the hole. If the fluid level starts to drop, you know you don't have a good seal. I did that and it worked. Once it started working I was suprised at the air that is actually in the system, but it sounds like you aren't getting a good seal between the Vac and the Vehicle.

OneHottLS1

iTrader: (1)

My pedal probably has about a 1/4 inch of play in it. The slave I am running is the factory '99. I already tried filling the resevoir up with the fitting in the master to make sure it seals completely, but an endless supply of air continues to come out...I think I might try bringing the car somehwere to have it bled after I get a new master?

rushman

make sure the slave bleeder valve is closed tight, and use less pressure on the mity, try 20psi, and just wait longer. The bubles will be smaller, but it'll come out. Pump the peddle a few times, drive around and do it again.

ATownZ28

When you say wait longer, how long exactly do you mean? Also, how often do these bubbles appear?

jamnut

iTrader: (4)

You are getting air past the fitting on the mighty vac. Just put a couple of pumps on it if you use it at all. You should be able to either gravity bleed the slave by loosening it up and just letting the fluid run out while keeping the resivoir full. Or do the 2 person method - Open the bleeder valve, have someone push the clutch pedal almost the way to the floor, close the bleeder, let them let the pedal up and then open the bleeder valve and let them pump it almost all the way down. If the pedal still has some play in it, just have them pull the pedal up the rest of the way to get more fluid behind the piston everytime that they let the pedal up from pushing it down to bleed.

Here you go, check out my Modded Mighty Vac Jar resivoir. I also have a 10oz, 16oz & 22oz Mason jar for them big bleeder jobs, this thing kicks *** with the bigger resivoirs.

ATownZ28

Ok well I don't think I'm getting air through any of the fittings because I keep the reservoir full while bleeding it and the level in the reservoir doesn't drop at all so this tells me the seal is tight. Also, I've noticed if I squeeze the tube near the reservoir a couple of times, that'll get some bubbles coming up faster.
BTW what is the deal with the bigger jars? How exactly does this help you?

ATownZ28

I've bled the clutch from the reservoir several times now using the Mityvac. I've tried less pressure, I've tried more pressure nothing seems to work completely. One question I had was after I bled it, the pedal had no pressure in it whatsoever and I had to pump it to get pressure. Is this the way it should be or should it immediately have pressure? Also my tubes are collapsing from the amount of pressure which I assume is a bad thing. It did get a little better but after a while it will go back to no pressure until half way down, then after I release it will get stuck half way. I can build up pressure by pumping though.
I'm thinking if I can get the bleeding to work it sounds like I will have to do the drill mod. If this doesn't work then I don't know. Is it possible I just need a new slave or master cylinder?

jamnut

iTrader: (4)

I do a lot of brake jobs for other people. The bigger jars give me a chance to evacuate the whole brake system of old fluid without having to dump my mityvac resivoir every 30 seconds.

Dal1as

Sounds to me like you are pulling air through the masters plunger. Had the same problem. Was getting constant air and pedal would get mushy after driving hard. Change out the master and I can actually pull the pedal to the floor while bleeding the clutch and tapping the pedal. Still need to get some air out of the slave but it's much better now.

ATownZ28

So you're telling me my master cylinder is shot? What would you recommend as a replacement? Stock or Mcleod? Engine is basically stock, thanks

Dal1as

I'm not an expert so will let someone else reccomend a MC. I have a fully stock clutch so just picked up a used one at the shop I take my car to.

5 Liter Eater

iTrader: (5)

So when you do the Mitivac method you are actually sucking out all the fluid like evacuating an A/C system? Then when you release the trigger it pulls the brake fluid back in? I am planning on picking up a mitivac this weekend.

ATownZ28

I don't think it pulls all the fluid out but it puts enough vacuum on it to draw the air out (theoretically)

MyLS1Hauls

iTrader: (2)

Air was coming in on mine where the reservoir line attaches to the master cup and the master itself. Dont apply so much vacuum. You NEED to make your master adjustable...mine WOULD NOT work right without it. Notchy as hell...the clutch was dragging. The SPEC pressure plates need more travel to disengage than the stock PP does. I wouldnt waste any more time bleeding...take the master out and fix it.

ATownZ28

I have a stock clutch and no plans to upgrade. Do I still need an adjustable or will a stock replacement do?