How To Install Clutch Video (Video Series Complete, Monster Level 1!)
06-24-2013, 12:23 AM
#46
It drives just like stock. The Monster pressure plate is heavier than the stock Pressure plate so the lightweight flywheel just offsets it. The complete monster unit with lightweight fly ends up being only like 2lbs lighter according to my bath scale so it's nearly an identical feel to me. Only change I can feel I'd the pedal is heavier from the heavy duty monster pp and the tick master.
07-14-2013, 07:47 PM
#47
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great job on the install vids man, I'll be refering to them whenever I wanna ditch my stock clutch, thanks!
...just wondering if your problem got solved with the tick master? I would probably order the whole monster stage 2 kit from tick, including clutch kit, tick master, GM slave, etc, because it sounds like they're all needed to make the setup work
...just wondering if your problem got solved with the tick master? I would probably order the whole monster stage 2 kit from tick, including clutch kit, tick master, GM slave, etc, because it sounds like they're all needed to make the setup work
07-15-2013, 10:08 AM
#50
Oh yeah, the tick master cylinder fixed that. When I installed the clutch kit I should have measured to see if I needed a shim. Since the monster clutch kit instructions says their kits don't need a shim I went ahead and didn't measure. That was a mistake. While the majority of peopl won't need a shim I actually did need one. That was the reason the clutch pedal was engaging right off the floor. It was also making my shifts really notchy.
Only thing to do was either pull the whole trans back down and get a shim, or get an adjustable master cylinder so I got the tick. There was no way in heck I was pulling down that tranny again. Plus the tick master is better anyway shifting wise and has a lifetime warranty I believe.
Only thing to do was either pull the whole trans back down and get a shim, or get an adjustable master cylinder so I got the tick. There was no way in heck I was pulling down that tranny again. Plus the tick master is better anyway shifting wise and has a lifetime warranty I believe.
07-15-2013, 11:39 AM
#51
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Oh yeah, the tick master cylinder fixed that. When I installed the clutch kit I should have measured to see if I needed a shim. Since the monster clutch kit instructions says their kits don't need a shim I went ahead and didn't measure. That was a mistake. While the majority of peopl won't need a shim I actually did need one. That was the reason the clutch pedal was engaging right off the floor. It was also making my shifts really notchy.
Only thing to do was either pull the whole trans back down and get a shim, or get an adjustable master cylinder so I got the tick. There was no way in heck I was pulling down that tranny again. Plus the tick master is better anyway shifting wise and has a lifetime warranty I believe.
Only thing to do was either pull the whole trans back down and get a shim, or get an adjustable master cylinder so I got the tick. There was no way in heck I was pulling down that tranny again. Plus the tick master is better anyway shifting wise and has a lifetime warranty I believe.
10-11-2013, 01:22 PM
#53
Edit 10-11-13* Six months later and I finally finished the 500 mile break in period, haha. Went for my first WOT run yesterday on an on ramp. Pinned it in 1st rolling onto the on ramp and could feel the rear tires breaking loose a bit as it was a little cold outside. Shifted into 2nd and continued full throttle. Here it comes...3rd gear (I would usually get locked out of third with the old clutch). Rpm approaches redline and I hit third gear like cake! Car starts to approach 90mph so I let off the throttle and switch to 6th. No spongey pedal, no getting locked out of gears, everything acts normal. I can't believe I waited this long to do this set up. If I would have known the problem all along was the stock PP locking me out of gear and making the clutch pedal drop under high rpm shifts I would have done this first back when my car was stock.
-New master didn't fix it
-New slave didn't fix it
-Drill mod didn't fix it
-Trying a bunch of expensive clutch fluids and bleeding every way imaginable didn't fix it
-Wrapping the hydraulic line with heat resistant material and routing it farther from the headers didn't fix it
-Changing that stupid self adjusting stock pressure plate fixed it! (So much time and money wasted on doing all that other stuff, Grrr!!!). At least through all my troubles I can warn others before they make the same mistakes.
-New master didn't fix it
-New slave didn't fix it
-Drill mod didn't fix it
-Trying a bunch of expensive clutch fluids and bleeding every way imaginable didn't fix it
-Wrapping the hydraulic line with heat resistant material and routing it farther from the headers didn't fix it
-Changing that stupid self adjusting stock pressure plate fixed it! (So much time and money wasted on doing all that other stuff, Grrr!!!). At least through all my troubles I can warn others before they make the same mistakes.
Last edited by TheBlueKnight; 10-11-2013 at 01:29 PM.
10-25-2013, 06:13 AM
#57
For the initial bleed, just remember once you have fluid and no more air in the system, to just pump the top part of the pedal. Only where it feels a bit "spongy". You'll see what I mean. The first half inch or so will still feel a bit mushy. Just pump that portion until it's firm there as well and you're done.
10-25-2013, 01:01 PM
#58
Agreed. With the speed bleeder, it takes all of 5 minutes to run a new bottle through the system. I did mine every oil change. Always ensured I had good fresh fluid in the system. I was actually surprised after just 3k miles the difference in pedal feel between the used DOT4 and the new.
For the initial bleed, just remember once you have fluid and no more air in the system, to just pump the top part of the pedal. Only where it feels a bit "spongy". You'll see what I mean. The first half inch or so will still feel a bit mushy. Just pump that portion until it's firm there as well and you're done.
For the initial bleed, just remember once you have fluid and no more air in the system, to just pump the top part of the pedal. Only where it feels a bit "spongy". You'll see what I mean. The first half inch or so will still feel a bit mushy. Just pump that portion until it's firm there as well and you're done.
10-25-2013, 01:22 PM
#59
I agree, that's when I flush the fluid or after a track visit. With the design of the slave behind the clutch it is important to stay on top of keeping it fresh for optimum performance. I'll take the trade off of maintenance over the increased pedal effort of a mechanical linkage any day.
