Common problem with f-body's. Get a Tick Master Cylinder and start a new thread with your results.

 

It's most likely the stock GM self adjusting pressure plate. My brother uses the stock master cylinder with his aftermarket clutch kit and it works good for him.

For me, I ended up needing the Tick Master because I didn't shim the slave like I should have and I needed an adjustable master that could essentially do the job the shim would, which is extending the throw out bearing farther to push the PP finger's farther in to fully disengage the clutch. The plus side was I have better shifting because of the Tick Master though. And sometimes even if you shim the slave, you could need to pull the entire tranny down again to install a thinner or thicker shim.

Personally, I'd start off with the Tick Master. Even though some guys with the stock GM PP like you have had the Tick fix their high rpm shifting problems, there is also some that it didn't solve and the guys have to get rid of that stupid stock PP. Tick Master is cheaper and easier to install than an entire clutch kit so I'd start there. If you end up needing to get rid of that stock PP and get a new clutch kit installed, well, IMO you would have wanted to have the Tick Master with it anyway.

 

Sorry bud, you can search and search for what I know you're looking for but I know you won't find it. No one is going to be able to tell you that it's the slave, the master or the clutch.

Myself like the OP of this thread started with the small stuff, hell I even did the tick master before I did my clutch, but it was the clutch all along (almost new ls6 unit) and I feel like in almost every instance it IS the clutch causing the problems as your symptoms are identical to what mine were.

Basically what's going to happen is you're going to spend a bunch of time and money to fix it and the only way to guarantee it's fixed is to replace the hydraulics (the master preferably a tick unit) and a quality clutch (I went with a diamond stage 2 with a chromoly flywheel and it works FANTASTIC).

Good luck!

 

Very well said ^^^

 

Btw excellent youtube vid of the drill mod.. easily walked me through changing it when I put the tick in.

Glad you got your issues worked out. Monster clutch was my first choice but I got an extremely good offer that I couldn't refuse on my setup.

 

Great advice in this thread.

 

I was having horrendous clutch issues in my c5 and I didn't even waste my time trying to track the issue down to one single part, so I just bought a whole new assembly from Tick and that fixed it but after tearing everything out we determined my slave and master were both shot lol.

 

I've just recently installed a Monster Stage 2, and Tick Master. I'm currently having a hell of a time reinstalling my transmission, but I still have the bellhousing attached to the trans. I'm going to separate them and try it the way you described in your video. As far as the installation was concerned, I had absolutely zero problems. It's a much easier job than I imagined, just a little time consuming. Maybe I missed it OP, but why didn't you opt for the speedbleeder? I don't even have my car back together yet, but can already say that this speedbleeder has to be the best $50 I've ever spent!


On another note, what clutch & brake fluid are you guys running?

 

+1, not too bad of a job, very time consuming. It's like a giant puzzle you have to do in a certain order. That's why I tackled it in a period of nearly a week. One day I took off the console, shifter, and driveshaft. Next day I dropped the trans and bell housing. Net day took off the clutch and put the new one in. Next day reinstalled the tranny. Final day I button everything back up and bled the hydraulic system. SO much less stressful doing that way instead of burning myself out rushing through everything and beating myself up.

I just use basic Dot 4 brake fluid from Orielly's or Autozone.

P.S. I didn't get the speed bleeder because I have the hole drilled in my floor pan. I can bleed it by myelf just under my dash.

 

Great video. About how much does the transmission weigh?

 

It has to be around 150lbs or so. It's more "bulky" than heavy, if that makes any sense. Just awkward.

I took mine down with the bellhousing attached though, so there is the added weight there. Also had 4 quarts of trans fluild in there when I dropped her down.

 

Yea that looks like the hardest part of the job, putting the trans back in while you're on your back.

 

I wasn't as brave as the OP, I invited a buddy over and fed him cigarettes and monster energy drinks - he works cheap! It's an easier task with two guys imho.

 

I have a 2001 Pontiac trans am WS6 with 29000 original miles today I just replaced my clutch master cylinder my pedal was sticking to the floor and thought that would fix it I don't know what to do from here I see so many different things the car is basically stock just want to get it back on the road

 

Well for one, drive your car. That fluid is 18 years old and has barely been cycled. Second if you replaced everything correctly, the new CMC is working correctly, and you bled the system completely but the pedal is still sticking then the only thing left to be an issue is the slave. Which to fix that you will need to drop the trans.

 

I know this a old thread but I just adjusted my tick MC today to The height of my brake pedal and I feel like it starts to engage at the height of the brake pedal, did your clutch engage that high as well?